another stalling thread (little different)

[white_raven]

ok so here is my setup, stock 2jzge ecu, SAFC II, 7mgte 440cc injectors, and 1uz Maf.

right now i'm not running any BOV, so i know it has nothing to do with recirculating the air.

so the issue i'm having is after resetting the ecu the car starts and runs fine, no stalling, idles fine. i can get on the gas and let it come back down totally fine. Then, i turn it off and turn it back on wont idle at all or if I can get it to idle its horrible rough. then when i drive it, it stalls or if i push it to 6k it hits fuel cut and dies. Safc was tuned when car was in the motor's original owner's car, but it hasnt been re tuned since, could part of the issue be, that I need to just take it to a shop and have it tuned?

[DrNick]

Your ignition timing could be way off.

[white_raven]

Should I be advancing it or retarding it?

[DrNick]

You need to look at what the timing light says :) And move it so that its at 10 degrees BTDC with engine idling and pins T1 and TE1 jumpered together in the engine bay diagnostic port.

[white_raven]

Ok I'll Check the timing on it first and make sure is 10 btdc, but why do those pins need to be jumpered while timing? Cuz my diagonostic port has been removed from my harness and I just have the ability to pull codes from the ecu. Thanks for the help and info.

[DrNick]

Jumpering those pins disables the vacuum advance system. If you don't jumper them then you will never really be setting the base timing since the ECU will be messing with it while you make your adjustments.

For example, I just checked my timing this weekend. It was spot on 10 degrees. I pulled the jumper off those pins with the engine still running and then checked and it was hovering around 14 degrees as the ECU had advanced it.

If you absolutely cant find those wires to jumper them then I suppose you can guess at it and set your timing to just over 10 degrees instead to compensate for what the ECU is doing. make sure the engine is at operating temperature when you do it.

[white_raven]

is it TE1 and T1 or TE1 and E1? i was looking at the sc300 FSM and it said TE1 and E1, but beyond that, i had my harness custom done and the diagnostic box was removed, is there 2 pins towards the ecu i could jumper or anyway else to disable VAS?

Awesome figured it out, i got it!

[DrNick]

Oops my bad.. It is TE1 + E1 :)

[white_raven]

ok so what are all the things i should try?

timing
boost leaks
high octane gas
install o2 to ecu
new spark plugs
make sure plugs are getting proper spark
and then get dyno tune at a shop

any other things I should check?