standard ecu

[TOTAL TINTING]

hi guys can i use my standard ecu with a turbo conversion or do i now need to buy an aftermarket ecu? its for a turbo conversion on a 1994 mk4 supra auto jap import? any help would be a masive on cheers :-)

[Mr Ree NZ]

Hang on, didnt you already order a kit the other day? The above research should have been done long before getting your wallet out as things start getting very expensive.

In answer to your question, yes you do need an after market ECU but you can still keep you factory one if you want.

Everything depends on what your end goals are so its too hard to give advice to you with no information given first.

Post up your plans and Ill try and advise you on the best path to take.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Hang on, didnt you already order a kit the other day? The above research should have been done long before getting your wallet out as things start getting very expensive.

In answer to your question, yes you do need an after market ECU but you can still keep you factory one if you want.

Everything depends on what your end goals are so its too hard to give advice to you with no information given first.

Post up your plans and Ill try and advise you on the best path to take.

yeah i orderd a kit on sunday. i asked this question before i orderd the kit. and i found out that i could use an apexi safe neo. so i dug around the net and found the pinouts for the car. i just want to run low boost and keep standard headgasket and injectors maby looking for 270-280bhp really ;-) when i get the kit i am going to order a aem wideband before i start but any tips and tricks would be a massive help! cheers

[LexusFTW]

Yes, you can keep the stock ECU and tune fuel with the safc.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Yes, you can keep the stock ECU and tune fuel with the safc.

brill m8 cheers i tought you could like ;-)

[Mr Ree NZ]

I would do a bit more research first in regard to that as I dont know anyone personally who has had good experiences trying to tune a JDM (map based) supra with an SAFC. They SAFC seems to work with with more success on USDM (maf based) cars.

Are you in newcastle, australia or UK? If youre in the UK, what do the guys on the UK supra forums say about it?

Most guys I know that live down under who have gone na-t with jdm supras have ended up using emanage ultimates and have great success with them.

[DrNick]

UK and Australia both got the JDM cars so SAFC is no good.

[Mr Ree NZ]

UK and Australia both got the JDM cars so SAFC is no good.

I wasnt sure if the UK non turbos were JDM or not as I seem to recall the UK spec TT's being MAF based? Probably for emission reasons etc...

[TOTAL TINTING]

I would do a bit more research first in regard to that as I dont know anyone personally who has had good experiences trying to tune a JDM (map based) supra with an SAFC. They SAFC seems to work with with more success on USDM (maf based) cars.

Are you in newcastle, australia or UK? If youre in the UK, what do the guys on the UK supra forums say about it?

Most guys I know that live down under who have gone na-t with jdm supras have ended up using emanage ultimates and have great success with them.

in in newcastle uk. ill have a good search about before i buy a fuel controller and check thease emanage ultimates out thanks for your help! ;-)

[LexusFTW]

You guys are right. I didn't realize it was a JDM car. The JDM guys love the Emanage Ultimate!

[TOTAL TINTING]

You guys are right. I didn't realize it was a JDM car. The JDM guys love the Emanage Ultimate!
Just had a look at thease emanage ultmates. Do you still keep your standard ecu like the safe or do the ultmates replace the stock ecu? Thanks

[LexusFTW]

You still keep your stock ECU and piggyback the Emanage to alter fuel and timing.

[DrNick]

You guys are right. I didn't realize it was a JDM car. The JDM guys love the Emanage Ultimate!

<3


Even though my tune is being gay at the moment.

[TOTAL TINTING]

You still keep your stock ECU and piggyback the Emanage to alter fuel and timing.

What do you mean piggyback the emanage? So bacicly it's sort of the same as a safe so you wire it up to the ecu ( tap into the ecus harness)? But it's works better for Jdm cars? Is this correct? Cheers

[LexusFTW]

Correct.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Correct.

could you tell me if this is all is everything i need for the emanage ultamate? cheers jamie
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRUST-GREDDY-E-MANAGE-ULTIMATE-FULL-COMPLETE-HARNESS-/140461693426?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b42b59f2

[Mr Ree NZ]

Yes that will be all you need in order to wire it in to your factory ECU.

You might also want to buy a couple of accessories, but they are not mandatory.

If you are planning on running a WB02 sensor(which you should be), or the Trust 3bar pressure sensor, you may want to buy "option looms" which plug directly into the EMU and connect to the WB02 and MAP sensor to give feedback.

I have seen the units alot cheaper through ebay in the US so have a good hunt around for the best price before buying one, and also pay attention to the sellers feedback, maybe ask the if they are licensed Trust resellers too as I dont think you can get a warranty on grey market gear. Not that I have heard of an Ultimate blowing up ever, but it pays to be safe.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Yes that will be all you need in order to wire it in to your factory ECU.

You might also want to buy a couple of accessories, but they are not mandatory.

If you are planning on running a WB02 sensor(which you should be), or the Trust 3bar pressure sensor, you may want to buy "option looms" which plug directly into the EMU and connect to the WB02 and MAP sensor to give feedback.

I have seen the units alot cheaper through ebay in the US so have a good hunt around for the best price before buying one, and also pay attention to the sellers feedback, maybe ask the if they are licensed Trust resellers too as I dont think you can get a warranty on grey market gear. Not that I have heard of an Ultimate blowing up ever, but it pays to be safe. yeah I am going to get an AEM wideband. Do i need the 3 bar pressure sensor I think you t-piece your map sensor for that but I don't know what I does lol cheers for the help!

[Mr Ree NZ]

You dont "need" a 3 bar map sensor but your current factory MAP sensor is only designed to register vaccuum, so as soon as it sees positive pressure it will throw your cars ECU into a "limp mode". You need to buy a new map sensor, whether its one from another turbo vehicle, or an aftermarket one. The reason I suggested the trust one is because it has the provision to plug into the EMU and give feedback etc.

I will have a map sensor from a 1JZGTE for sale soon as I have bought a TRUST sensor to use with my ultimate. Let me know if you would be interested in it.

[DrNick]

why are you replacing the perfectly good 1jz sensor ??? you just wanna copy me issit? :D

[TOTAL TINTING]

You dont "need" a 3 bar map sensor but your current factory MAP sensor is only designed to register vaccuum, so as soon as it sees positive pressure it will throw your cars ECU into a "limp mode". You need to buy a new map sensor, whether its one from another turbo vehicle, or an aftermarket one. The reason I suggested the trust one is because it has the provision to plug into the EMU and give feedback etc.

I will have a map sensor from a 1JZGTE for sale soon as I have bought a TRUST sensor to use with my ultimate. Let me know if you would be interested in it.

put money aside. what would be easyest lol. is there any map sensors that just plug stright in because i dont really want to start choping wires and joining new ones. just a stright plug in would make me happy lol

[DrNick]

put money aside. what would be easyest lol. is there any map sensors that just plug stright in because i dont really want to start choping wires and joining new ones. just a stright plug in would make me happy lol

get the TRUST own one that comes as an accessory with the emanage. no chopping wires, it just plugs right into one of the ports on the front of the emanage.

[TOTAL TINTING]

get the TRUST own one that comes as an accessory with the emanage. no chopping wires, it just plugs right into one of the ports on the front of the emanage.

so with that do i take out my factory one and replace it with the TRUST or do i keep the factory map?

[DrNick]

you leave your factory one where it is. that way the stock computer uses its own stock sensor, and your new emanage uses its own sensor. Its a lot easier to get it up and running that way and i personally think its more reliable because you havent removed any of the stock parts that your stock computer requires to run the car.

[TOTAL TINTING]

you leave your factory one where it is. that way the stock computer uses its own stock sensor, and your new emanage uses its own sensor. Its a lot easier to get it up and running that way and i personally think its more reliable because you havent removed any of the stock parts that your stock computer requires to run the car.

brill m8 makes life alot easier not having to chop and change BIG HELP! i will invest in one of these! so its called a 3 bar pressure sensor? and im sure ive seen somewhere that you need to T-pice the vacume hose that goes into the map and join up the TRUST one is the correct? cheers jamie

[LexusFTW]

I agree that anything plug n play is better than splicing and hacking. Yes, you'll need to "T" the 3 bar map sensor with vacuum line.

[TOTAL TINTING]

I agree that anything plug n play is better than splicing and hacking. Yes, you'll need to "T" the 3 bar map sensor with vacuum line.

any vacume line or is there one that goes into the stock map? cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

why are you replacing the perfectly good 1jz sensor ??? you just wanna copy me issit? :D

Heh seen. :) Nah mate I got a trust one for a good deal so I thought it would be silly to not buy it.

you leave your factory one where it is. that way the stock computer uses its own stock sensor, and your new emanage uses its own sensor. Its a lot easier to get it up and running that way and i personally think its more reliable because you havent removed any of the stock parts that your stock computer requires to run the car.

Can you please explain how this set up works to me mate? Im guessing you apply some kind of voltage clamp to the NA map sensor? Otherwise it will sense boost and have a hissy fit.

Im planning on just running the trust map sensor but do you recommend I would be better to just leave the 1jz sensor in place too?

Cheers

[frankdms]

To control IGN you will need EMS or a aem F/IC. ^Those others just mask in+outs to fool the ecu. The F/IC has a built on map sensor and controls the factory ecu's signal from the stock map sensor. Is your mk4 a 2jzge or GTE?

[DrNick]

Can you please explain how this set up works to me mate? Im guessing you apply some kind of voltage clamp to the NA map sensor? Otherwise it will sense boost and have a hissy fit.

Im planning on just running the trust map sensor but do you recommend I would be better to just leave the 1jz sensor in place too?


Are you saying you dont have your stock 2JZGE map sensor any more? Then what is your stock ECU reading from?
The easiest way is to Tee the vac line from the stock MAP and insert your Trust 3 bar sensor there.

In the emanage injector adjustment map you make sure the Y scale isn't set to the stock map sensor V and it will be fine. In my own injector map i chose GReddy Pressure Sensor V as the Y scale, but the tuner changed that to relative pressure KPa and it also works fine. I think the Emanage just "knows" which one to read from when you have the new MAP sensor plugged into the option port.

Then in the engine parameters screen you enable the "Boost Limiter Cut" map (this is just a volt clamp) and put 4.30 in all the cells. 4.30V corresponds to 0psi on the stock sensor, so that way the stock ECU will never see any boost.

[Mr Ree NZ]

To control IGN you will need EMS or a aem F/IC. ^Those others just mask in+outs to fool the ecu. The F/IC has a built on map sensor and controls the factory ecu's signal from the stock map sensor. Is your mk4 a 2jzge or GTE?

No pun intended here but I think you have your wires crossed. The emanage ultimate isnt a cheap piggy back like an SAFC, and it CAN conntrol igntion and also wires directly into the injectors to control them.

The OP is about to do and NA-T conversion on his GE btw.

Are you saying you dont have your stock 2JZGE map sensor any more? Then what is your stock ECU reading from?
The easiest way is to Tee the vac line from the stock MAP and insert your Trust 3 bar sensor there.

In the emanage injector adjustment map you make sure the Y scale isn't set to the stock map sensor V and it will be fine. In my own injector map i chose GReddy Pressure Sensor V as the Y scale, but the tuner changed that to relative pressure KPa and it also works fine. I think the Emanage just "knows" which one to read from when you have the new MAP sensor plugged into the option port.

Then in the engine parameters screen you enable the "Boost Limiter Cut" map (this is just a volt clamp) and put 4.30 in all the cells. 4.30V corresponds to 0psi on the stock sensor, so that way the stock ECU will never see any boost.

Yeah mate I removed my vaccuum MAP sensor and replaced it with the boost sensor. We just scaled the voltages to work out what was what and swapped them over and it is fine. I once accidentally went over 15 psi when I was first doing some road tuning and the WG spring stuck shut. Luckily I backed off in time to not damage anything but I inadvertantly found out that the sensor didnt cut out at 1bar.

Cheers for the info about the emanage settings, I did see the trust sensor in the drop down menu last time I was having a fiddle with it so guessed it was calibrated to know the voltages out of the box.

4.3V being 0psi makes sense when you hear about people cutting out at 2/3psi which is probably hitting 5V.

[DrNick]

hey man what are your AFRs at part throttle cruise? I meant to ask you before.
i find that im only using 3% throttle when i want to cruise at 70kmph so the stock ecu starts to lean it out a lot.
when my new shiny radiator (which you hate) arrives i'll test out some new map ideas.

[TOTAL TINTING]

To control IGN you will need EMS or a aem F/IC. ^Those others just mask in+outs to fool the ecu. The F/IC has a built on map sensor and controls the factory ecu's signal from the stock map sensor. Is your mk4 a 2jzge or GTE?

2jzge

[TOTAL TINTING]

Are you saying you dont have your stock 2JZGE map sensor any more? Then what is your stock ECU reading from?
The easiest way is to Tee the vac line from the stock MAP and insert your Trust 3 bar sensor there.

In the emanage injector adjustment map you make sure the Y scale isn't set to the stock map sensor V and it will be fine. In my own injector map i chose GReddy Pressure Sensor V as the Y scale, but the tuner changed that to relative pressure KPa and it also works fine. I think the Emanage just "knows" which one to read from when you have the new MAP sensor plugged into the option port.

Then in the engine parameters screen you enable the "Boost Limiter Cut" map (this is just a volt clamp) and put 4.30 in all the cells. 4.30V corresponds to 0psi on the stock sensor, so that way the stock ECU will never see any boost. good explanation m8!!!!! now i understand i thought you had to"T" in to the stock map sensor thanks for that! ;-)

[TOTAL TINTING]

also i am in the middle of sourcing 2 new lambda sensors for the down pipe i need the threded ones for the down pipe. is any cheep universal sensor ok to use? as i can get them for £15.00 each or would it better to get the BOSCH universal single wire for £45.00 each just i here you get what you pay for! but sometimes thats not always the case lol. thanks

[DrNick]

im using a cheapo $20 universal sensor and its ok. you can actually manage with just one , just join up the two wires from the existing sensors so that the ecu thinks that you have two sensors plugged in.. there, you've already halved the price :)
to be honest, since you only need one then you might as well go ahead and get a bosch one so that you know its gonna be good.

[TOTAL TINTING]

im using a cheapo $20 universal sensor and its ok. you can actually manage with just one , just join up the two wires from the existing sensors so that the ecu thinks that you have two sensors plugged in.. there, you've already halved the price :)
to be honest, since you only need one then you might as well go ahead and get a bosch one so that you know its gonna be good.

yeah good point! lol but will it still put to much volts to one sensor? like say each sensor runs 0.5v. so the factory wire is putting out 0.5v so if i joined the 2 wires together would that not put 1v to the 0.5v sensor if that makes any sence lol? cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

Do you legally need to run 02 sensors where you live? Where I live we dont have any polution laws for cars yet so I have removed my catalytic converters and dont run any 02 sensors apart from my Innovate WB02.

It never through a code due to not running them either funnily enough.

[Mr Ree NZ]

hey man what are your AFRs at part throttle cruise? I meant to ask you before.
i find that im only using 3% throttle when i want to cruise at 70kmph so the stock ecu starts to lean it out a lot.
when my new shiny radiator (which you hate) arrives i'll test out some new map ideas.

My afr's are between 15 and 16 on light throttle/cruise. Does your ECU start leaning out because you still have the factory 02 sensor connected so its constantly trying to trim fuel? I would have thought it would have been running a nice 14.7:1 everywhere in closed loop?

Mmmm shiny :) Make sure before you install it to cover the bottom outlet with your hand, fill it with water, cover top outlet with other hand and then violently shake it lots, then release the water from inside it. repeat that process a few times incase there are any rogue elements of slag inside waiting to meet your water pump impeller ;)

I did that with my oil cooler before fitting it(with oil obviously) and what do you know, half a dozen small metal shaving came out of the core, so I repeatedly refiled it and drained it a few times to ensure there was nothing left inside to potentially damage the engine.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Do you legally need to run 02 sensors where you live? Where I live we dont have any polution laws for cars yet so I have removed my catalytic converters and dont run any 02 sensors apart from my Innovate WB02.

It never through a code due to not running them either funnily enough.

yeah the uk needs catalytics and 02 sensors to pass a MOT . cheers

[DrNick]

yeah good point! lol but will it still put to much volts to one sensor? like say each sensor runs 0.5v. so the factory wire is putting out 0.5v so if i joined the 2 wires together would that not put 1v to the 0.5v sensor if that makes any sence lol? cheers

it doesnt work that way, the sensor is actually the thing that produces the voltage , not the other way around.
connecting it that way will halve the current that the stock ecu receives, but the voltage will stay the same.

[TOTAL TINTING]

it doesnt work that way, the sensor is actually the thing that produces the voltage , not the other way around.
connecting it that way will halve the current that the stock ecu receives, but the voltage will stay the same.

Ahhhhh i see now lol thanks for that :-)

[frankdms]

The 2jzge does not have a COP to be controled like the other setups that would work well with an ultimate. Given the MAG cam X2 and MAG ckp sensors with the dist type ign setup on a n/a 2jzge, I stick with my statement saying a AEM F/IC "8" would work best with the ability to retard the cam/ crank signals going to the pcm.
With the Ultimate it recieves the ign signal to a COP setup and retards the timing by ign signal out to the coils, *this is my understanding of the ultimate. Please correct my bad info from what I have read on the ign control of the Ultimate.

I am going to do some more reading. (no pun taken...)

No pun intended here but I think you have your wires crossed. The emanage ultimate isnt a cheap piggy back like an SAFC, and it CAN conntrol igntion and also wires directly into the injectors to control them.

The OP is about to do and NA-T conversion on his GE btw.

[frankdms]

^Page 17ish http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/Ultimate_Install.pdf

[DrNick]

The 2jzge does not have a COP to be controled like the other setups that would work well with an ultimate. Given the MAG cam X2 and MAG ckp sensors with the dist type ign setup on a n/a 2jzge, I stick with my statement saying a AEM F/IC "8" would work best with the ability to retard the cam/ crank signals going to the pcm.
With the Ultimate it recieves the ign signal to a COP setup and retards the timing by ign signal out to the coils, *this is my understanding of the ultimate.

In short the ultimate would tap into the IGT trigger coming from the stock ecu and delay that for ignition retard. From a piggyback point of view this would be preferable to intercepting the cam and crank signals because this way the stock ECU is able to operate with unchanged engine parameters and is less likely to try and compensate.

That being said it does work the other way too, I've actually been discussing this very issue this week with an engineer who is designing an engine management system for the 2jz, he is doing ignition control based directly off those two sensors.

For simple igniton retard you really dont need the cam signal though since that is used for cylinder identification, and the distributor can do that mechanically anyway. If you wanted to remove the distributor altogether then you would absolutely need the cam signal.

[frankdms]

^interesting. Would it be a PC based program?

[frankdms]

Well, I would say I stand corrected with the ultimate- I found this (jdm 2jzge + ultimate install info) http://medusa.murdoch.edu.au/~20042484/EmanageUltimate_Wiring.pdf

[DrNick]

Well, I would say I stand corrected with the ultimate- I found this (jdm 2jzge + ultimate install info) http://medusa.murdoch.edu.au/~20042484/EmanageUltimate_Wiring.pdf

hehehe i wrote that guide pdf!

[TOTAL TINTING]

just been looking a my manifold and down pipe (standard ones on the car) and the 2 lambda sensors are sitting on the top of the manifold but on the down pipe there is a pipe going into it? it looks like a lambda sensor fixing with the 2 bolts holding it in place but it donsnt look anything like a lambda sensor just looks like a metal pipe. has anyone got any idea of what this strange pipe is? as when i take the standard manifold off this will have to come off! and i dont know what i will do with it? and if i need to connect it back up? any help please. cheers

[DrNick]

its a temp sensor for your cat to make sure its not on fire and stuff.. dont cut the wire because theres a risk that the stock ecu will be upset. Just get some wire and tie it up under your car.

[Mr Ree NZ]

As DrNick said, its just a cat temp sensor. When I did my conversion, I unplugged it from just inside the car and it has never thrown an error code.

[DrNick]

In that case I'm going to unplug mine too. I had it tied under the car and i've almost taken my eye out on it twice while going under to check on the downpipe etc.

[TOTAL TINTING]

In that case I'm going to unplug mine too. I had it tied under the car and i've almost taken my eye out on it twice while going under to check on the downpipe etc.

Lol so where abouts in the car is the plug located m8?

[DrNick]

Lol so where abouts in the car is the plug located m8?

start pulling on the wire and you'll find out :)

[Mr Ree NZ]

Yeah just pull it !!

Hehe

No but seriously Its under thre carpet on the drivers side so you will have to remove the foot rest so you can peel back the carpet and expose the connection.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Yeah just pull it !!

Hehe

No but seriously Its under thre carpet on the drivers side so you will have to remove the foot rest so you can peel back the carpet and expose the connection.

oh sweet! cheers m8. ;-)

[Mr Ree NZ]

Hi mate, just thought I would see if you had any more updates to share with us?

[TOTAL TINTING]

Hi mate, just thought I would see if you had any more updates to share with us?

yeah sorry been a bit busy lol. ive wraped the manifold and changed the wastegate spring to a 0.4bar so just need a boost controller as i want to be running around 7psi. ive olso orderd a brand new e-manage ultamate and full universal harness and AEM wideband so they should come next week some time. so its just a case of getting things ready to go in. ;-) ill put some pics up shortly

[TOTAL TINTING]

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/turbokitsupra.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/manifoldsupra-1.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/wrapedmanifoldsupra.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/turbosupra.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/turbosupra2.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/turbosupra3.jpg

[TOTAL TINTING]

ill be wraping the down pipe tomorrow and fitting the union bolt with gaskets. but i will be blocking the new union bolt off with a small bolt so when it comes to fitting the turbo i just need to unscrew the small bolt to get oil feed ;-)

[DrNick]

sounds like youve got it all under control

[TOTAL TINTING]

can anybody tell me if this will fit my xs power t61 turbo? thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290493232648&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[Mr Ree NZ]

That is for a T6 turbo so will be HUGE and more than likely it wont fit between your throttle body inlet and the top of your turbine housing. You need a T4 beanie :)

Keep an eye out for oil leaks if you are going to use one of those cheap t pieces that come in the kit and attach it to the union bolt.

Are you going to have an engineer rotate the WG flange and plumb the dump tube back into the down pipe?

Looking forward to the next update :)

[TOTAL TINTING]

That is for a T6 turbo so will be HUGE and more than likely it wont fit between your throttle body inlet and the top of your turbine housing. You need a T4 beanie :)

Keep an eye out for oil leaks if you are going to use one of those cheap t pieces that come in the kit and attach it to the union bolt.

Are you going to have an engineer rotate the WG flange and plumb the dump tube back into the down pipe?

Looking forward to the next update :)

no i was just going to leave the wastegate the way it was and just have the dump tube pointing down this should be fine shouldnt it? ive fitted the union bolt and used the little block of screw off the T-piece to seal it off untill i fit the turbo. it did leak stright away but i just went out and got some plummers tape and it worked fine ;-)

[TOTAL TINTING]

ive just noticed when i turn my ignition on the warning lights on the right side wont light up. non of them ecu, oil, and i think there is anouther one that should light up. what could this be a fuse? cheers

[LexusFTW]

^ That's strange. Have you checked all the fuses? Are you getting proper 12volts to the ECU?

[DrNick]

those ones are notorious for breaking. the solder joins along the edge of the circuit board crack for some reason.
i've repaired 4 of them so far for people.
but if it just randomly stopped working then of course check your fuses first. if the solder join is cracke then wiggling it around will make it work intermittently (of course you need to get at the connector that plugs into it from behind to check this out).

[TOTAL TINTING]

those ones are notorious for breaking. the solder joins along the edge of the circuit board crack for some reason.
i've repaired 4 of them so far for people.
but if it just randomly stopped working then of course check your fuses first. if the solder join is cracke then wiggling it around will make it work intermittently (of course you need to get at the connector that plugs into it from behind to check this out).
I didn't notice if they where even working before a bought it lol I just checked my oil and it was as dry as me grans teeth lol so I thought to myself why hasn't the oil light came on. And I noticed non of them were working ill have a look at the fuses but I didn't think they would be fused as they are just little. Lights lol where would the fuse box be located for these lights? Cheers

[LexusFTW]

Wow, I just realized you were talking about the dash lights in the top panel. DrNick hit the nail on the head.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Wow, I just realized you were talking about the dash lights in the top panel. DrNick hit the nail on the head.

lol its my bad explanations man. lol

[TOTAL TINTING]

another thing i need abit help with. i didnt want to run a 4runner cap as im not a 100% sure on the timing side of things. so i was thinking of getting a very fine mesh and some foam sheeting that you can buy to refill a hks filter. so my plan: fit a bit of mesh over inlet (on turbo) then the foam filter cut to shape then some more mesh over the top ( so the foam would be sandwiched inbetween 2 bits of fine mesh). so if i done it that way i wouldnt need a 4" pipe for an air filter that would hit the distributor cap. also the little sensor rite behind the airbox. would it be ok to drill into the intercooler pipe rite infront of the throttle body inlet and insert it there. would this work fine? here is a pic of that sensor:
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraenging4SENSOR.jpg

[DrNick]

Don't put a bit of mesh over your turbo, thats a terrible idea. Theres a huge amount of force in that area and it will get sucked in, or worse still theres also a massive amount of heat there so its likely to melt anyway. You absolutely need a proper air filter. Dont bother with the 4" intake pipe though thats too massive, I used a 4" to 3" 45 degree reducer so that it curves away from the distributor neatly. Im not sure what you mean about the timing stuff? Its really a trivial job to check the timing after replacing the cap, and in fact even if you do not replace the cap you still need to check the base timing on your car before you turbo it. Its quite important that its exactly at 10 degrees as timing becomes quite a sensitive issue under boost.

As for the thing you pointed out, thats intake air temp sensor. I put mine in my steel intake pipe going into the turbo, but it gets heatsoaked there from the engine heat so its not the best spot. I think you might be better off if you leave it outside the piping and just locate it where your air filter is. It doesnt have to be inside the pipe to work.

[Mr Ree NZ]

As DrNick said already, do not try and make a make shift air filter for your set up, its just asking for trouble.

I would advise you stop worrying about swapping over to the 4 runner cap, and go to toyota and buy one. All the instructions you need are on this site, and if theres something your not 100% about, ask us and we will point you in the right direction. You really need the extra room to move in that area so its money well spent.

You cant fit the IAT sensor you currently have into the intercooler piping as its secured by a rubber bung type arrangement as its designed to be used in a "vaccuum only" mode. Now that you have converted your car to na-t, ideally you need to buy a new IAT sensor, possibly from a 1JZ GTE or 2JZ GTE and have a theaded bung welded into your intercooler pipe before the throttle body but after the intercooler (cold side). You also want to mount it in an area where it isnt getting radiant heat blasted in its direction, somehwere behind the headlight would be quite good as its as far away from the exhaust/turbo as possible.

Your other option is to do as DrNick and I have done and install it in your intake pipe between the air filter and your turbo inlet. I would only recommend this as an acceptable soloution if you are only ever going to be boosting under 10psi and dont live in a place that has scorching ambient air temperatures. Once you start raising your boost, the air being compressed by the turbo will start rising in temperature and if your IAT sensor is only reading ambient air temps rather than the far hotter air you might be creating, the ECU is going to have a hard time of adding the right amount of fuel based on the (incorrect) info it is being sent.

P.S Dr Nick, I would have thought that given you live in such a hot climate, you would have the sensor welded into your pipework, post cooler? I cant remember how much boost you set it to run at though so Im guessing it isnt too high to be a danger to the motor. Where exactly did you install your IAT? I put mine basically where it was when it went into the airbox, but instead its into my 4" aluminium intake with silicone sealant around the edge to stop it pulling in warm air going past thats been through the radiator etc.

[DrNick]

P.S Dr Nick, I would have thought that given you live in such a hot climate, you would have the sensor welded into your pipework, post cooler? I cant remember how much boost you set it to run at though so Im guessing it isnt too high to be a danger to the motor. Where exactly did you install your IAT? I put mine basically where it was when it went into the airbox, but instead its into my 4" aluminium intake with silicone sealant around the edge to stop it pulling in warm air going past thats been through the radiator etc.

Mine is in the hard pipe in the same place as it was before the turbo.
I don't want to make any holes in my intercooler piping because of the risk of leaks and also because they are just too nice to mess with :)
The logic was that the ambient temp+heatsoak would be an approximation of the temperature increase due to compression anyway. But I think its getting too warm there. I added a 300ohm series resistance to offset this in a dodgy way but it only had limited effect.

It doesnt really affect the car under load. When I accelerate or boost its always flat 11.0AFR regardless of the temperature. But the part throttle and idling starts to lean out, ive improved it a bit but will play with it a bit more at some point in the future :)

[Mr Ree NZ]

If you get a bung welded in to underneath your nice shiny intercooler pipe behind the headlight, no one would be any the wiser and you shouldnt get any leaks or heat soak either. I was hoping you would be able to impart some knowledge in that area to see if the GTE IAT has the same values as the GE one? I recalled you telling me about the values when I mentioned the UK chaps "fast acting IAT" to you.

I think you may be right in that it only controls the car under closed loop conditions.

I want to log some intake air temps, and also some pre and post intercooler temps so I can see exactly how much increase Im seeing at 8psi, post cooler. Im guessing its pretty damn close to ambient but I would prefer to be certain. Werent you going to do some data logging in that area mate or am I thinking of someone else?

[DrNick]

Yeah it was me, but I dont have a GTE one to compare with.
My intake pipe and my post cooler IC pipe are practically touching each other, so no difference in temps. Unless I situate the thing outside the bay, but i cbf moving it now :)

Jaycar here sell a little temp sensor thing that is really just a thermometer with a long wire so you can tell what the outside temp is, just sandwich the wire inside one of your joiners and you can see the temp then. Get a couple of em for pre and post cooler comparison. I was going to do that but my mate broke one of the sensors so i only have the one now.

[TOTAL TINTING]

As DrNick said already, do not try and make a make shift air filter for your set up, its just asking for trouble.

I would advise you stop worrying about swapping over to the 4 runner cap, and go to toyota and buy one. All the instructions you need are on this site, and if theres something your not 100% about, ask us and we will point you in the right direction. You really need the extra room to move in that area so its money well spent.

You cant fit the IAT sensor you currently have into the intercooler piping as its secured by a rubber bung type arrangement as its designed to be used in a "vaccuum only" mode. Now that you have converted your car to na-t, ideally you need to buy a new IAT sensor, possibly from a 1JZ GTE or 2JZ GTE and have a theaded bung welded into your intercooler pipe before the throttle body but after the intercooler (cold side). You also want to mount it in an area where it isnt getting radiant heat blasted in its direction, somehwere behind the headlight would be quite good as its as far away from the exhaust/turbo as possible.

Your other option is to do as DrNick and I have done and install it in your intake pipe between the air filter and your turbo inlet. I would only recommend this as an acceptable soloution if you are only ever going to be boosting under 10psi and dont live in a place that has scorching ambient air temperatures. Once you start raising your boost, the air being compressed by the turbo will start rising in temperature and if your IAT sensor is only reading ambient air temps rather than the far hotter air you might be creating, the ECU is going to have a hard time of adding the right amount of fuel based on the (incorrect) info it is being sent.

P.S Dr Nick, I would have thought that given you live in such a hot climate, you would have the sensor welded into your pipework, post cooler? I cant remember how much boost you set it to run at though so Im guessing it isnt too high to be a danger to the motor. Where exactly did you install your IAT? I put mine basically where it was when it went into the airbox, but instead its into my 4" aluminium intake with silicone sealant around the edge to stop it pulling in warm air going past thats been through the radiator etc.

so would it be ok to use the same sensor that is already fitted in my car if i get an air filter and basicly put it in the same place it was (stright after the airflter)? cheers

[TOTAL TINTING]

is this the one i need ? cheers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190353536575&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[TOTAL TINTING]

Don't put a bit of mesh over your turbo, thats a terrible idea. Theres a huge amount of force in that area and it will get sucked in, or worse still theres also a massive amount of heat there so its likely to melt anyway. You absolutely need a proper air filter. Dont bother with the 4" intake pipe though thats too massive, I used a 4" to 3" 45 degree reducer so that it curves away from the distributor neatly. Im not sure what you mean about the timing stuff? Its really a trivial job to check the timing after replacing the cap, and in fact even if you do not replace the cap you still need to check the base timing on your car before you turbo it. Its quite important that its exactly at 10 degrees as timing becomes quite a sensitive issue under boost.

As for the thing you pointed out, thats intake air temp sensor. I put mine in my steel intake pipe going into the turbo, but it gets heatsoaked there from the engine heat so its not the best spot. I think you might be better off if you leave it outside the piping and just locate it where your air filter is. It doesnt have to be inside the pipe to work.

so are you not runnning a 4 runner? and just got yourself a 45degree reducer and this fits fine? cheers

[DrNick]

Yes I am using the forerunner cap, and even with that cap a 4" intake would be impossibe.
But with regard to the timing , Im saying you need to make sure its set even if you dont change your cap.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Yes I am using the forerunner cap, and even with that cap a 4" intake would be impossibe.
But with regard to the timing , Im saying you need to make sure its set even if you dont change your cap.

oh ok then i will just get a 4 runner then will the one i have put a link to above do the job ? cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

I would buy a genuine one from toyota as other members have had fitment issues with aftermarket ones. For the few dollars you might save its not worth the headache.

In regard to your IAT sensor, yes you can simply install it in the turbo intake pipe just after the air filter. Just make sure its in nice and tight and put a bead of silicone around the edge to seal it in properly.

You will also need to have a small pipe fitted to run your PS vacuum line from as that is run from the intake pipe aswell. You should be able to find it relatively easily. Its in the same section of pipework somewhere between the air filter and the throttle body. :)

[TOTAL TINTING]

I would buy a genuine one from toyota as other members have had fitment issues with aftermarket ones. For the few dollars you might save its not worth the headache.

In regard to your IAT sensor, yes you can simply install it in the turbo intake pipe just after the air filter. Just make sure its in nice and tight and put a bead of silicone around the edge to seal it in properly.

You will also need to have a small pipe fitted to run your PS vacuum line from as that is run from the intake pipe aswell. You should be able to find it relatively easily. Its in the same section of pipework somewhere between the air filter and the throttle body. :)

brilliant m8! is there ba part number for the 4 runner just to make life easyer? cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

Yes mate, its in a STICKY thread on this site with all the info about 4 runner caps :)

[TOTAL TINTING]

Yes mate, its in a STICKY thread on this site with all the info about 4 runner caps :)

ah thanks mate

[TOTAL TINTING]

little update: i fitted the union bolt on sunday and blocked it off untill i fit the turbo. im just waiting on a few things like the e-manage ultamate. as the company i bought from sent me the wrong one the e-manage blue! lol duno how they made that mistake as they sent me the right harness for the ultamate lol oh well it should be here soon. here is a few pics:

new union bolt
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/oilfeed.jpg

down pipe ready for wrapping
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/downpipe.jpg

turbo blanket
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/turboblanket.jpg

aem wideband
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/aemwideband.jpg

[TOTAL TINTING]

some more updates lol :
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraturbo2.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraturbo.jpg

[TOTAL TINTING]

some more pics :

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/dumpvalve.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/labmdasensors.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/e-managewiringharness.jpg

[Mr Ree NZ]

Great to see the updated parts you have so far mate.

You should create a members/build thread as more people will see it in there, and then you can document it pic by pic too by quickly reserving the first few pages of posts (or take as much as you need;))

[TOTAL TINTING]

Great to see the updated parts you have so far mate.

You should create a members/build thread as more people will see it in there, and then you can document it pic by pic too by quickly reserving the first few pages of posts (or take as much as you need;))

will do mate ;-)