supra emanage

[TOTAL TINTING]

hi guys im going to buy an emanage ultamate in the next few days so was wanting some advice please! right my car is a 1993 toyota supra mk4 imported from japan to uk RHD auto non turbo ive been told its a JDM model but im not sure. ive bought a xst61 turbo kit from mark and wanting to run about 6-7 psi on stock everything so looking about 260-270 bhp. do i need any adapters (resistors) for injectors or ignition or anyting? and do i need to wire up the ignition wire (to control the ignition) ? thanks jamie

[Mr Ree NZ]

You wont need to wire up the igniton if you are only going to run < 8psi, the factory ECU and knock sensors will do a good job of keeping the ignition in check.

You dont need anything for the injectors either.

Take a photo of your intake pipe from the back of your filter box and post it up here so I can try and see if you have an IAT sensor plugged into the air filter box, and whether you have a MAF or not.

Cheers

[TOTAL TINTING]

You wont need to wire up the igniton if you are only going to run < 8psi, the factory ECU and knock sensors will do a good job of keeping the ignition in check.

You dont need anything for the injectors either.

Take a photo of your intake pipe from the back of your filter box and post it up here so I can try and see if you have an IAT sensor plugged into the air filter box, and whether you have a MAF or not.

Cheers brill m8 will Get a pic up stright away in the morning! Thanks

[TOTAL TINTING]

brill m8 will Get a pic up stright away in the morning! Thanks

here are the pics of my engine ive put a few up of differnt angles ;-)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraengine.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraengine2.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraengine3.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraenging4.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraenging5.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraenging6.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/supraenging7.jpg

cheers jamie

[Mr Ree NZ]

I can confirm for you that you have a MAP sensor equipped JDM model :)

[DrNick]

i can confirm to you that your engine is fucking filthy and should look like this

http://medusa.murdoch.edu.au/~20042484/clean2.jpg

[TOTAL TINTING]

i can confirm to you that your engine is fucking filthy and should look like this

http://medusa.murdoch.edu.au/~20042484/clean2.jpg

ha ha ha

[TOTAL TINTING]

I can confirm for you that you have a MAP sensor equipped JDM model :)

right so would the ultamate be the best choice for me? and also i need to change the map sensor? (what would be the easyest way of doing this and how to do it). and apart from marks kit, emanage ultamate, map sensor change, AEM wideband, and boost gage is there anything else i need to get me on the road? also is it true that i shouldnt have the stalling problems with the RHD JDM model? cheers jamie

[TOTAL TINTING]

right so would the ultamate be the best choice for me? and also i need to change the map sensor? (what would be the easyest way of doing this and how to do it). and apart from marks kit, emanage ultamate, map sensor change, AEM wideband, and boost gage is there anything else i need to get me on the road? also is it true that i shouldnt have the stalling problems with the RHD JDM model? cheers jamie

drnick has answered th MAP sensor question for me on another topic. just the rest lol cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

i can confirm to you that your engine is fucking filthy and should look like this

http://medusa.murdoch.edu.au/~20042484/clean2.jpg

Looks nice mate, the intake mani is great.

Where is your fan shroud and the foam seal between the radiator and the chassis? nudge nudge wink wink ;)

[Mr Ree NZ]

right so would the ultamate be the best choice for me? and also i need to change the map sensor? (what would be the easyest way of doing this and how to do it). and apart from marks kit, emanage ultamate, map sensor change, AEM wideband, and boost gage is there anything else i need to get me on the road? also is it true that i shouldnt have the stalling problems with the RHD JDM model? cheers jamie

I think the ultimate is your best option, but I have to be sure that you have someone who lives near you who will be able to tune it. Its all very well and good me advising you on what I think will work best but if you dont have a a tuner who knows how to get the most out of it then its going to be difficult.

You dont need a boost gauge provided you know what psi spring you WG is, I would suggest getting a 7 or 8psi spring and testing it with compressed air to confirm it is indeed that rate otherwise you might end up running higher boost than you want/what is safe.

There is a little bit more stuff you need to think about, lots of the little niggly things that end up blowing the project from a weekend to months, as unless you know what they are, you just keep tripping up at every step.

PM me your email address and I will send you a list of all the little bits and pieces you arent made aware that you need when youre buying a kit, but they are things that really need to be done if you want any sort of reliability in the longterm.

I doubt you will suffer from stalling issues, this seems to be confined to MAF equipped cars using atmospheric BOV's.

Cheers

[TOTAL TINTING]

I think the ultimate is your best option, but I have to be sure that you have someone who lives near you who will be able to tune it. Its all very well and good me advising you on what I think will work best but if you dont have a a tuner who knows how to get the most out of it then its going to be difficult.

You dont need a boost gauge provided you know what psi spring you WG is, I would suggest getting a 7 or 8psi spring and testing it with compressed air to confirm it is indeed that rate otherwise you might end up running higher boost than you want/what is safe.

There is a little bit more stuff you need to think about, lots of the little niggly things that end up blowing the project from a weekend to months, as unless you know what they are, you just keep tripping up at every step.

PM me your email address and I will send you a list of all the little bits and pieces you arent made aware that you need when youre buying a kit, but they are things that really need to be done if you want any sort of reliability in the longterm.

I doubt you will suffer from stalling issues, this seems to be confined to MAF equipped cars using atmospheric BOV's.

Cheers

thanks e-mail sent to pm. what do you mean WG dose this mean WASTEGATE? if so how do you set the spring? i was getting a boost gauge anyway just so i can keep nan eye on it. and BOV is that what i know as dump valve (what makes that woooo tishhhhhhhhhhhhhh sort of sound when you let off the gas pedel) ? i have the atmospheric dump vale not the recirculating one. will i need to recirculate it? thanks once again ;-)

[DrNick]

Looks nice mate, the intake mani is great.

Where is your fan shroud and the foam seal between the radiator and the chassis? nudge nudge wink wink ;)

on the car of course silly.. i took that pic when i first put the head back on after doing the head gasket. its never been that clean ever since!

and theres no room for foam when the TT radiator went in, its practically touching the metal support in front of it. i would like one of those cooling panels though, but not gonna pay someone $100 for it, i'll get some sheet metal and have a go myself at some point i think.

another thing on the list!

[Mr Ree NZ]

thanks e-mail sent to pm. what do you mean WG dose this mean WASTEGATE? if so how do you set the spring? i was getting a boost gauge anyway just so i can keep nan eye on it. and BOV is that what i know as dump valve (what makes that woooo tishhhhhhhhhhhhhh sort of sound when you let off the gas pedel) ? i have the atmospheric dump vale not the recirculating one. will i need to recirculate it? thanks once again ;-)

Yes WG is an abbreviation for the waste gate. The springs come in different rates so you buy the spring to match the lowest boost you want to be able to run. If you want to increase your boost level at a later date, you simply add a boost controller.

Yep the BOV is a "blow off valve", it releases compressed air that builds up as the throttle butterlfy snaps shut.

You wont need to recirculate it but it will annoy less people haha. :)


on the car of course silly.. i took that pic when i first put the head back on after doing the head gasket. its never been that clean ever since!

and theres no room for foam when the TT radiator went in, its practically touching the metal support in front of it. i would like one of those cooling panels though, but not gonna pay someone $100 for it, i'll get some sheet metal and have a go myself at some point i think.

another thing on the list!

Yeah I made one out of 3mm plastic sheet material and worked out where the holes needed to be to clear the bonnet latches etc. It was crude but did its job until I finally forked out for a CF one ;)

[DrNick]

i really should talk to my steel supplier, i know they have nice stainless sheet metal, but i think they only sell it in massive sheets. even the flat bar that i bought was in 6 meter lengths lol.. but i used up most of it doing random pointless shit with my new TIG :)

[TOTAL TINTING]

i also fogot to ask when i install the emanage ultamate and upload the software will the ultamate have a base map or anything just so i can drive to the tuning shop ? and also where do i buy the wastegate springs mines a 50mm wastegate and i want to run between 6-7psi? thanks

[DrNick]

remember, you still have your stock ecu so you can drive the car just like before as long as you dont boost it.
i got my wastegate spring from MVP motorsports and it was $30 or so. I got 0.5 bar which is something like 7.5psi so it should be just what you need.

[TOTAL TINTING]

remember, you still have your stock ecu so you can drive the car just like before as long as you dont boost it.
i got my wastegate spring from MVP motorsports and it was $30 or so. I got 0.5 bar which is something like 7.5psi so it should be just what you need.

how do you fit it? thanks

[Mr Ree NZ]

Have you already got your WG? If so then you need to undo the "top cap" carefully, keeping in mind that it is under slight pressure from the springs tension. Once you have undone all the bolts then you can simply remove the spring and replace it with the new one and reverse the process to rebuild it.

Just be sure what spring you have first as half of the cheaper ones come with any old spring, you might find its 16psi but it might also be 8. Not worth buying a new one until you know for sure.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Have you already got your WG? If so then you need to undo the "top cap" carefully, keeping in mind that it is under slight pressure from the springs tension. Once you have undone all the bolts then you can simply remove the spring and replace it with the new one and reverse the process to rebuild it.

Just be sure what spring you have first as half of the cheaper ones come with any old spring, you might find its 16psi but it might also be 8. Not worth buying a new one until you know for sure.

yes mark sent me a 50mm wastegate ( well thats what it said in the box). can i not just fit a boost controller and control what ever spring is fitted now? cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

A boost controller can only increase boost from the WG springs minimum rate.

E.G Whatever psi your spring is, is the minimum boost that you can run. Thats why its crucial to ensure you have the right spring before fitting it. Remove it and measure its diameter and length, so you can be sure what you are buying will fit.

[TOTAL TINTING]

A boost controller can only increase boost from the WG springs minimum rate.

E.G Whatever psi your spring is, is the minimum boost that you can run. Thats why its crucial to ensure you have the right spring before fitting it. Remove it and measure its diameter and length, so you can be sure what you are buying will fit.

ok cheers i will do that ;-) also what set spring is normally in a 50mm wastegate? for example 8psi spring or, 9psi or, 10psi cheers

[Mr Ree NZ]

ok cheers i will do that ;-) also what set spring is normally in a 50mm wastegate? for example 8psi spring or, 9psi or, 10psi cheers

Im sorry I cant tell you mate, if it is one of the WG's Im thinking of from xs-power, its hit and miss what spring is inside it. I was told it would be an 8psi spring when I bought mine but low and behold it was a 16psi one so I had to buy the proper one.

The fact is that unless you test it personally, you will never know the springs rate as the quality control with these parts isnt the best therefore its very hit and miss what you will get in your box.

[TOTAL TINTING]

Im sorry I cant tell you mate, if it is one of the WG's Im thinking of from xs-power, its hit and miss what spring is inside it. I was told it would be an 8psi spring when I bought mine but low and behold it was a 16psi one so I had to buy the proper one.

The fact is that unless you test it personally, you will never know the springs rate as the quality control with these parts isnt the best therefore its very hit and miss what you will get in your box.

could i try it at my local garrage by putting the nipple into the wastegate and running a tyer pump with the psi gauge on to the nipple ? i guss if its hits 7psi then it opens thats what spring is fitted? correct? cheers

[TOTAL TINTING]

also i think i need to change my dizzy to a 4runner whats the easyest way to go about doing this ? cheers

[DrNick]

could i try it at my local garrage by putting the nipple into the wastegate and running a tyer pump with the psi gauge on to the nipple ? i guss if its hits 7psi then it opens thats what spring is fitted? correct? cheers

how would you regulate the pressure in the tire pump? It pumps up tires to 50-60psi happily so the line pressure would be higher than that.

also i think i need to change my dizzy to a 4runner whats the easyest way to go about doing this ? cheers

um you unscrew the old one and put the new one back in its place? bit of an odd question lol

[TOTAL TINTING]

how would you regulate the pressure in the tire pump? It pumps up tires to 50-60psi happily so the line pressure would be higher than that.



um you unscrew the old one and put the new one back in its place? bit of an odd question lol

Oh as easy as that lol well I look stupid lol I just thought you might need to change rotor arm and swich the ht leads around or sumit and I thought I read somewhere about moving the timing 10degre or sumit but that could of been a total differnt thing I was reading about lol. Is it possable just to leave the stock cap in or for the simple fact of just unbolting it and fitting a 4 runner just better of doing?

[DrNick]

theres a whole thread about it - http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4921&highlight=4runner

[TOTAL TINTING]

theres a whole thread about it - http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4921&highlight=4runner

Ah cheers m8. i still dont understand the 10 degree timeing tho sounds scary to me! lol

[DrNick]

I'm worried how you are going to do your install if you are worried about little things. Do you have a more mechanically experienced mate who can help out with the install? I would hate for you get stuck halfway through and have no car!
With the timing I recall that I didn't need to change it anyway. But any time you mess with the distributor on any car you must recheck the timing. The base timing on the supra is 10 degrees and all you need to do is make sure that it stays at 10 degrees even after you modify the car.

[TOTAL TINTING]

I'm worried how you are going to do your install if you are worried about little things. Do you have a more mechanically experienced mate who can help out with the install? I would hate for you get stuck halfway through and have no car!
With the timing I recall that I didn't need to change it anyway. But any time you mess with the distributor on any car you must recheck the timing. The base timing on the supra is 10 degrees and all you need to do is make sure that it stays at 10 degrees even after you modify the car.

i have i little bit expeience m8 a built a corsa turbo last year but it was just engine swap, drive shafts, engine monts and a cupple of little things but ive never converted an non turbo car to a turbo, personally i think engine swap is a piece of piss lol but there seems to be a bit more know how when turbo charging an non turbo. here is some pics if my last project.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/11550_1148837929669_1489213760_3038.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/13958_1164437679653_1489213760_3041.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/13958_1164436439622_1489213760_3041.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/002.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/004.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/007.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/13958_1165061895258_1489213760_3041.jpghttp://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/corsabuild27.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb161/jamielfoster86/P300909_15480002-1.jpg

[DrNick]

Good stuff mate that looks like a brilliant project :) I love the paintjob in the last pic too.
Really all new stuff seems difficult. Doing a turbo conversion is certainly not harder than an engine swap, its just different. The difference is that you have to sometimes figure out how to make things fit together or modify things to work rather than using stock parts.
If you can weld it makes the job a lot easier, I only recently got into welding, when I was doing the pipework on my supra i had a mate help me with it and that made it all a lot easier.

what engine goes into the corsa turbo? they sell the same car here badged as 'holden barina'.. i saw a real cheap one for sale that had a blown engine, so if theres a good engine to swap in then it might be a good project for me :)

[TOTAL TINTING]

Good stuff mate that looks like a brilliant project :) I love the paintjob in the last pic too.
Really all new stuff seems difficult. Doing a turbo conversion is certainly not harder than an engine swap, its just different. The difference is that you have to sometimes figure out how to make things fit together or modify things to work rather than using stock parts.
If you can weld it makes the job a lot easier, I only recently got into welding, when I was doing the pipework on my supra i had a mate help me with it and that made it all a lot easier.

what engine goes into the corsa turbo? they sell the same car here badged as 'holden barina'.. i saw a real cheap one for sale that had a blown engine, so if theres a good engine to swap in then it might be a good project for me :) a vauxhall calibra 2.0ltr turbo or vauxhall cavalear turbo 4x4 lol its really easy just go on ebay and type in C20LET (witch is the engine code) and loads of stuff for the engine to conversion parts will come up like 300bhp drive shats engine monts and to make it alot easyer use the F20 FIVE SPEED GEARBOX. you can use the F28 six speed but more work is involed. where the 5speed drops in without having to change anything at all it took me 2 days to convert lol