How to install an SAFC-2

[SupaSupraSE]

The SAFC-2 is used by a lot of fellow na-t owners. While some use just the SAFC-2 and their MAF, others do the SAFC/VPC combination and ditch their MAF.

You must also note that the 1993.5-1995 supras, will wire up differently than those that are 1996-1998. This is due to the earlier models (93.5-95) being OBD1, while the older models (96-98) are OBDII.

Getting Started:

Go to the passenger side of the car. On the right side of the floor is a black plastic cover held in by a wedge screw. Push on the middle of the screw and pull it out, then pull out the side piece which is part of the door trim--it just pulls out and snaps in. Once that is removed pull back the carpet which will expose the ECU protective shield (the carpet is held in by two plastic screw wedges at the top). Use your sockets to remove the two nets holding the shield down and remove the shield. The ECU should now be exposed. Remove the last nut that is holding the ECU down. Then slip the end over the screw and pull the ECU down and it should be free. The top part of the ECU harness can be removed by pinching and pulling on it. The bottom harness needs to be unscrewed to be removed, either with a screwdriver or with your sockets. After unscrewing the harness pull it off the ECU and set the ECU out of the way. You may need to remove some electrical tape that is binding the wires, so you have complete access to them.

Now you can get started wiring your SAFC-2. Before we begin, you have to note the change between the OBD1 supras, and the OBD2.

The OBD1 1993.5-1995 supra will use the KARMEN sensor
The OBD2 1996-1998 supra will use the HOTWIRE sensor

*******FOR OBD1 (1993.5-1995) N/A's-************

-Use PINK wire, instead of YELLOW wire
-Use ORANGE wire, instead of WHITE wire.
-YELLOW and WHITE wire are NOT used
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IF YOU ARE OBD2, FOLLOW THESE STEPS EXACTLY AS THEY ARE WRITTEN. OBD1 READ DIRECTLY ABOVE FOR CHANGES YOU MAKE.
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1. Splice the GREEN wire (RPM) into 58

2. Splice the GRAY wire (Throttle) into 43

3.Cut wire 66 in half, leave yourself enough room to connect a wire to ECU harness.

4.Connect the YELLOW wire to the 66 wire connected TO the ECU harness.

5. Connect the WHITE wire to the 66 wire heading AWAY from the ECU harness.

6. Splice the BROWN wire (ground 1) into 69, close to the ecu.

7. Splice the BLACK wire (ground 2) into 69 at least 1cm away from the Brown wire.

8. Splice the RED wire (12V+) in to ECU wire 31.

9. PINK and ORANGE wires are not used.
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OK, Now you have all of the wiring done, double check all of your connections, reconnect the wiring harness to your ECU. Make sure all of those wires are still tight. Plug the harness into the S-AFC. Reconnect your battery cable. Turn the ignition to the ON position. The AFC should boot up and display A'PEXi, if screen did not light up, stop disconnect the battery and find out what went wrong. Most likely it is power or ground problem (or a loose ecu harness.)

If the unit Powers On, follow these steps:

First start off by Resetting the AFC. Many have often complained that their AFC does not show full throttle(%100), regardless if it is brand new. Go under [etc.] and press NEXT~>. Confirm "YES" when prompted "Init. All?" and press NEXT again, Now turn the ignition OFF and then back ON, and the unit should now be reset and ready.

Next enter the following basic settings:

1.-Go to [main] ~>[setting] ~> [3. TH-Point] ~> [Lo-94, Hi-95]

*2.-Go to [main] ~>[etc.] ~> [1. Sensor Type] ~> [1. Hot-Wire] ~> [in-12, Out-12] ~> [in-1, Out-1]* (SELECT KARMEN IF YOU ARE 93.5-95)

3.-Go to [main] ~>[etc.] ~> [2. Car Select] ~> [Cyl:6, Thr: UP]

4.-Go to [main] ~>[etc.] ~> [3. Graph scale] ~> [Ne = 7000rpm]

5.[Ne-POINT = 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500, 7000]

[Dec. -Air = NOT USED, unless you want to use it to compensate for venting your BOV to atmosphere]


Do not modify the low throttle settings. While at low throttle (in closed loop mode) the ecu will counteract any changes made and over time your long term fuel map will be modified. I recommend modifying your high throttle fuel curve on the dyno with an air/fuel ratio meter & egt gauge installed. For maximum power, one probably wants to run an air to fuel ratio of between 11:1 (rich) and 12.5:1 (lean) Do yourself a favor and pay a professional to tune it. If you lean your engine out, things can melt.

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BLUE WIRE MOD INFO

This allows you to read Oxygen Sensor Voltage on the AFC display. On the wiring harness for the AFC the blue wire is not normally used. The blue wire is meant for the second Mass Air Flow Meter on a Nissan 300ZX. You will connect this wire to the O2 sensor wire right at the ECU. To read the O2 sensor voltage, scroll down to and select the "etc." menu. Select the "Sensor Check". Of the three readings, O2 voltage will be the middle one (#2).
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VPC+AFC

If you are installing the VPC with the AFC, then install the AFC on the output wire of VPC
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[Kirk]

Thanks for the write up, I copied it over to the Wiring section! :)

[SupaSupraSE]

Thanks man, hopefully more to come. :)

[SupraMan35]

good write up

anyone have pics of where they installed their s-afc? I have no idea where to mount mine.

[SupaSupraSE]

I mounted mine right under my head unit. It fit in almost perfect. I had to drill a hole in the back of it and bring the wires down to the ECU, ill attach a pic in a minute.

[SupaSupraSE]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/supasuprase/IMG_06211.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/supasuprase/IMG_06191.jpg

All the pics I got at the moment, sorry it's not in color.

[scnat]

was this your work?

[house]

A couple of questions; does the writeup apply to sc300's too and does it need to be dyno tuned afterwards? Thanks

[SupaSupraSE]

Depends if your OBD1 or not. Your not going to need to tune anything, because your SAFC settings will be zeroed out (0 across the board) when you install it, which is the same as basically not having it in there at all. :)

[SupaSupraSE]

Mines fits like a glove in there. Sometimes over MAD bumps or so, itll pop out, but only takes like 2-3 seconds to pop back in place.

[house]

Depends if your OBD1 or not. Your not going to need to tune anything, because your SAFC settings will be zeroed out (0 across the board) when you install it, which is the same as basically not having it in there at all. :)
I'd OBD1. So when I install the SAFC how do I tune it to the optimal settings? Are there presets, does it automatically figure it out or does it need to be taken to a dyno? Sorry I'm new to this stuff any advice would be appreciated.

[Lexurious COupe]

SupraSE, you're my hero! I'm HOPEFULLY gonna connect mine (put it in the glove box yesterday) this weekend. I've got an OBD I SC300, so I'll let you know if there are any differences.

[Lexurious COupe]

Well, I actually found time to do this today.However, it seems as though the Supra and SC wiring harness plugs are different, or maybe I just don't know what to look for. On the back of my harness, the side where the wires come in, there are 4 rows of 10 wires... see the attached pic - there are two sets of wires on either side with an empty area with the screw in the middle. So it would appear that the numbers on mine only go up to 49 (or 40-10, however you look at it). ANybody got any advice/ideas/comments? OH, on top of this, the "Toyota Soarer" plug diagram in the S-AFC wiring diagram doesn't look like my plug, so I'm affraid to just start splicing. Eek! :ohnoes:

[Bean]

Thats because you dont have a Toyota soarer

different ECU, different harness

[Lexurious COupe]

Ok, so my plug is apparently different than y'alls. So I looked up my wiring harness in the S-AFC II manual, and it told me to use T8b (Pressure Sensor), for the Toyota Soarer. My plug looks nothing like that, and I got scared. I called APEX, and they told me to use a different wiring diagram. The diagrams in their manual that came with the S-AFC II are for Japanese spec cars, not "world" or US spec. The manual says to use diagram T8b (Pressure sensor), which is incorrect for the SC300 OBD I system. In my/our case(s), use the T7a (Karmen Sensor). I'm going back down to the garage to try to get this thing working and will report back later. Wish me luck! And I hope that helps anyone else out there with an SC3!

[Lexurious COupe]

Thats because you dont have a Toyota soarer

different ECU, different harness
Yeah, I know. But it still is the same basic car (both run the 2JZ-GE), and the SC was not listed, so I thought it would work. That's when I called APEX.

[drft_n_sc]

I have a 95 sc300 and I used T7a and set it up using the orange and pink wires instead of the white and yellow. Then I set it up as a karman sensor and not a pressure sensor, she works like a charm. Thanks to this thread.

I just have one question, how do you plug in the blue wire. Do you connect it the same way the book tells you to (rb26det) or do you just tap it in the same way you would the green wire?

[drft_n_sc]

I'm sorry, I posted that I used diagram T7A when I actually meant T7B, sorry if I caused any misundersatndings!!

[adversary]

Can anyone tell me what exactly are the differences between SAFC and SAFC II. But more importantly, does the SAFC also have the setting to compensate for venting your BOV?

[SupraSpeed4u]

Vnice write up.. Pic's no work anymore

[Lexurious COupe]

Can anyone tell me what exactly are the differences between SAFC and SAFC II. But more importantly, does the SAFC also have the setting to compensate for venting your BOV?
TO my knowledge, which is very limited, the difference is mostly cosmetic (rotary nob instead of buttons), but I think there is some difference in functionality, too, but I don't know what it is, sorry!

[kaukau]

Great write up, thank you for your contribution.

I have a couple question I like to ask about SAFC2 and VPC.
I am planing to have both VPC and SAFC2 on my old 93 SC300 OBD1 vechicle. This time thinking to go NA-t. I somehow got the diagram (http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/vpc-afc.jpg) from djacky (member here)
Double checking this diagram works for my car as well.

stupid question but I like to know how did you guys manage to put wires together? splicer, heatshrink, solider...any possible better way or possible suggestion to work on it? I like to have a proper preparation for this installation at this time. I think I messed up on wiring last time on another set up on my car. I do not want to work on electrical part much neither problems...hard to fix or troublesome on the electricals for me...any physical pictures available for fully assembled?

Connection::::::AFC:::::::::::::::AFR:

To ECU:::::::::Pink::::::::::::::::Yellow:
From ECU::::::Orange:::::::::::::White:
12V Ignition::::Red:::::::::::::::::Red:
Ground:::::::::Black and Brown:::Black:
RPM Signal::::::Green::::::::::::::Brown:
Throttle:::::::::Grey:::::::::::::::Orange:

and install the AFC on the output wire of VPC
Just double checking here, please correct me if I am wrong...thank you

[Lexurious COupe]

I don't know about the diagram you have, but I used those plastic "t" connectors to wire my SAFC. You can get them at any automotive or hardware store.