1JZ swap Tutorial

[got_trd]

Alright, here goes my novel.

First of all, let me inform you that the #1 myth about the 1jz is NOT true. Parts are easily accessable here in the states. There hasnt been anything I needed for my car that I couldnt find.

Soarer (jzz30) 1jz-gte swap into a Lexus SC300

Parts needed: (some may not come w/ your clip or engine set... Supra is refered to as the MKIV)
1JZ-GTE Soarer engine
1JZ-GTE Soarer ECU
1JZ-GTE Soarer trans (if prefered)
Soarer or Supra side mount intercooler/pipes
Supra Upper/lower radiator hoses (if the ones w/ your engine set are cut)
Supra TT throttle/cruise cable
Soarer/Supra Igniter
A spool of 18g wire (to extend the harness)
USB Cable (to shield the knock sensor wires when extending them)
Heatshrink/Solder
New motor mounts (recommended)
MSD Tach adapter (for the tach)
330ohm resistor (for the temp gauge)
HKS Fuel cut defencer (or similar)
Greddy speed limiter cut controller (or similar)
Supra TT/Walbro fuel pump
New plugs (NGK3330's .025-.030 gap recommended)
New Timing belt (Isuzu Trooper 4 cylinders 2.6 liters, or a Greddy for 5 times the cost)
Necessary fluids

I believe thats about it from what I can remember right now. Not everything listed is needed. Its just the way I would do it.


The swap is pretty much straight forward. It will bolt up to the SC300 auto or manual trans. Or you can opt to use the soarer auto or soarer r-154.

First thing I would do it extend the harness (about 18 inches). You dont "have" to extend the ECU plugs but for accessibility reasons in the future such as wiring an s-afc, e-manage etc, I would recommend to.

Take off the front bumper, radiator, condensor. This makes it easier to pull the NA motor our and put the 1jz in. The hood should come off too.

Of course you know to unplug your stock harness and pull it through the firewall and unplug the necessary things that need to be unplugged. (atleast I hope so if your attempting to do a motor swap) so ill skip all that... I would unbolt the a/c compressor and leave it to the side so you dont have to re-charge the a/c system. Thats your choice. Pull the NA motor out and drop the 1jz in.

The 1jz will bolt up to the stock motor mount locations on the SC300 and on the SC400. It will go in with the downpipe connected (just takes a little more time). Bolt it up, route the harness through the firewall and everything plugs right in. The plug that goes down to the power steering rack&pinion from near the alternator needs to be lengthened a few inches due to rhd/lhd swap. The SC300 fan shroud will work w/ the 1jz fan. Remove the plastic cover on the inside of the pass. fender so the smic piping can go through there. Take out the 2jz-ge coil. Bolt in the 1jz igniter (it goes on the drivers side shock tower).

The fuel pump takes 2 seconds to do. The less gas in the car the easier it will be. Pull off the bottom part of the back seat (1 clip on each side). Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the seat back and slide the seat back up and pull it out. Use a small wedge tool or flat head and take the round cover off. Then unscrew those bolts to reveal the fuel pump. If using the Walbro, you will have to cut the wires that go to the pump and resolder it to the harness that comes w/ the Walbro. Your also gonna need to gently bend some of the fuel lines to get the rubber line to fit correctly. After that everything goes back together.

Make sure the tach adapter is wired in or else you wont get a tach reading. The 330omh resistor for the temp gauge goes behind the intrument cluster on the yellow wire w/ the green stripe. You will probably get an airbag light on. Im not sure why it comes on but I just took the bulb out.

Thats pretty much it to get the 1j up and running. Im sure im missing a few things so just ask and ill probably remember......


Im using the Soarer Torsen rear end w/ my set-up. I highly recommend using some sort of LSD when doing this swap. One wheel wonders are no fun. You can use the Supra TT rear ends, but the flange where the d/s connects to the diff needs to be swapped w/ a supra one.

For fluids im using mobil1 10w-30 full synthetic, toyota coolant w/ distilled water and a bottle of water wetter, toyota type-iv trans fluid. You might notice that your car seems to run a little hotter than the NA when you open your hood after a drive. Its normal. Most of the jz-gte's tend to seem a little warm under the hood.

Im using NGK plugs -7(6097 i think) gapped at .028. .030 works if your on stock boost but you want to close it up some if you plan on running higher boost. When doing oil changes I use the Supra oil filter. Part #-90915-YZZD3. There is also another oil filter I have that works. It's about an inch shorter than the one I use, but the part# for that is- 90915-YZZD1


If you are doing the stock swap, stock boost is around 10psi. The twins are ct-12a's therefore the blades are ceramic. If you didnt know, ceramic blades dont like high boost. The highest boost I run on the street is around 16psi (1.11bar to be exact). Most of the Aussies dont push much if any over that as the turbos tend to give w/ all that boost. I have however hit 21 psi in first gear one time just seeing how high it will climb and blew an intercooler pipe. That was a one time only type of thing though. hehe.

When upgrading the 1jz, 95% of the 2jz-gte parts are usable. All but one or 2 of the sensors are exactly the same as the 1jz (what a coinsidence). The basic bolt on part mostly interchangable.

2jz-gte parts that need modding to work on a 1jz:
Catback exhaust
downpipes
Turbo manifolds (the bolt flanges)
Intake manifolds (bolt flanges again)
radiators (mainly fluidyne)
injectors
valve cover gasket

2jz-gte parts that work w/ out modding:
Pulley's including the crank pulley
Waterpump's
internals
intakes
intercoolers
drive belt
alternator
a/c compressor
p/s pump
strut bars
suspension components
wheels (mkiv offsets fit pretty well on the SC)
spark plugs
ignition coils
oil filters

[ki_soarer]

lets start off with a parts list...

1JZ-GTE motor
soarer ECU (auto, or mannual)
soarer wiring harness
intercooler (stock sidemount will work, or any MKIV FMIC set up.)
extra wire to extend harness
tranny (stock trans will work fine or the soarer auto, soarer 5-speed R-154, or supra 6-speed V160 will work)


if you are using an auto ecu, and sticking with an auto tranny, this is pretty much all you will need to get it running.

if you are using a manual ecu, and sticking with a manual tranny, it will work fine.

if you are using an auto ecu with a manual tranny, you can still get the car started and running, but will need to eventually bypass the neutral safety switch, and instal a tach adapter so that it will work correctly.

i will add more info when i have more time.

everyone feel free to add to what i have. i know that there are a lot of other things that you could put on here, but i wanted to just list the basics. there really isnt much to this swap.

[got_trd]

1jz-gte factory specs-

Displacement : 2491cc
Type : Twin Turbo Inline 6 Cyl
Valvetrain : Belt driven DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder
Fuel System : TCCS EFI, Premium Unleaded
Ignition System : Direct fire ignition
Combustion Chambers : Pent Roof
Compression Ratio : 8.5:1
Bore x Stroke : 86 x 71.5

Peak Power : 280PS (206 kW) @ 6200rpm
Peak Torque : 37.0 kgm (268 lb ft, 363 Nm) @ 4800rpm
Fuel Consumption : 210 g / PS*h @ 2000 rpm

Dimensions (LxWxH) : 860 x 670 x 665 mm (MTM)
: 845 x 670 x 665 mm (ATM)
Weight (complete) : 217kg
Turbos : CT12A (2x)
Compressor wheel : 37/54mm
Turbine wheel : 52/42mm
Boost : 0.60-0.69kg/cm2 (8.5 - 9.8psi)
Fuel Injectors : 380cc/min high impedance

Intake cam timing (o-c) : 3° BTDC - 41° ABDC
Exhaust cam timing (o-c) : 46° BBDC - 2° ATDC
Camshaft duration : 224 (in) 228 (ex)
Valve clearance cold : 0.15-0.25mm (in) 0.25-0.35mm (ex)
Spark plug : ND PK20TR11 / NGK BRK6EKPB11
Plug gap : 1.1mm (limit 1.3mm)
Base Ignition timing : 8-12 BTDC (jumper TE1,E1)
Idle rpm : 600-700
Engine Oil : SAE 10W30, API SH

[Bean]

Here's a good question, that I'm not quite sure of...

When using a manual ECU in a car with a manual transmission (like my SC300 for instance)...
does the JZA70 manual ECU plug into the Soarer harness? I'd figure they are the same harness plug on the ECU side at least, but I'm not sure.

:)

[got_trd]

I am gonna have to go w/ no on that one....

Here is the JZA70 ECU (both manual/auto have the same plugs, just a few diff pins)
http://tinypic.com/a4tqih.gif

Here is the JZZ30 ECU:
http://tinypic.com/a4tsf6.jpg

[Bean]

Ok, here's another GOOD question :)

Why don't those people doing the swap in their SC300, swap bottom-ends at the same time of the 1jz swap?

I'd just as soon buy a boostlogic headgasket, take off the 1jz bottom end and mount the 1jz onto the 2jz-GE block... you'd still need to drill for the oil return line and then have to jury rig the oil feed... but I suspect thats nothing major for 500cc more displacement... especially seeing how you're just getting the headgasket and not buying a whole extra block

EDIT:

I did my own research and found this to WORK VERY WELL!!!!

there is roughly a 15% increase in horsepower and 20-25% increase in torque by using the 2jz block.

The GE block is already VERY strong and can handle TONS of power. This would be an interesting idea. Nearly any SC300 swap could do it relatively easy

How to do it?

Well logically you are going to replace the timing belt on your 1jz engine that you purchase right? Well purchase a new 2jz timing belt instead along with ARP headstuds and a 2-3mm headgasket. I'd be getting the Boostlogic setup (arp studs and 2.5mm gasket for $400 or so)

And then? Take the 1jz head off the 1jz block. Take the 2jz-ge head off the 2jz block. Use the new headgasket and studs on the 2jz-ge block. Drill and setup the oil return line.

If you're going single, then go ahead and setup a 1jz single manifold (can find em on ebay now) and turbo, etc.

The oil feed line comes out of the union bolt (all just like a NA-T setup). If you're running stock 1jz twins, you'll need to split the oil feed line with a Y and run them to each of the oil feeds on each of the turbos. You'd also need to plug the water lines (easy with the Soarer 1jz waterpump, that you already have from the 1jz block ;) ) or you can run the GE waterpump if you're going single

Accessory belt would be the 2jz stocker.

Imagine the cost benefit of this. Then you SELL your 1jz block on ebay for a couple hundred bucks to offset the cost. AMAZING!

I dub this idea... the THREE JAY ZEE or just 3JZ for short ;) Since its different than the 1.5jz (which uses a 2jz-gte block) :ylsuper: :ylsuper:

EDIT AGAIN:
Oh and then you run a SupraTT FMIC setup... which allows you to buy the SupraTT IC piping... which is a lot cheaper than the NA-T pipes since they are mass produced.

Imagine an PTE71GTQ on this beast!!! Or hell, even a T61... you could run like a .81 A/R exhaust side and just DEAL with the extra lag... hell who cares if you dont have full boost until late 3900-4100rpms... you redline at 7500 and have a revlimiter set at around 7900!!!! Run the Emanage Ultimate (if they can get the bugs out) and push it up to 8500 with a nice set of cams :)

[got_trd]

coming soon my friend.... coming soon..... :boink:

[Brown Duckz]

coming soon my friend.... coming soon..... :boink:I'm gonna try and beat you to it...... :fingersx:

[scnat]

then it would be a stroker motor :ylsuper:

[Bean]

coming soon my friend.... coming soon..... :boink:

I might be right behind you. :)

Something else to push the discussion along:

What about the tachometer and water temperature outputs?
I know the tach doesnt work and the water temp will read incorrectly.

Does the tach adapter fix the problem? If it does is there any information on its install and what part # a person needs for this particular application?

What resistor can be used for the water temp so it will read correctly?
Is it possible to take the 2jz-ge water temp sensor off of the motor and replace the 1jz sensor with it? Does it have the same type of harness plug?

[got_trd]

read through my first post carefully and the answers are in there..

[Bean]

read through my first post carefully and the answers are in there..

Ah whoops! you extended your writeup; my bad for not paying attention :hay:

As far as the 330ohm resistor... if you have to wire it behind the instrument cluster, then is it possible to wire it down near the dash plugs next to the ecu so one does not have to get the instrument cluster out of the car? :)

The MSD Tach Adapter... does it have a specific 1jz-gte application or is this a generic piece?

[got_trd]

I would think that as long as its wired in there somewhere it should be fine. As far as the tach adapter, its a universal part. Ill post up the part # in a few days when I get around to updating the first post some more

[Bean]

I'm making a prediction after a little research that this mod with the 2jz-ge block will become the "new thing" in about another year's time.

Once you see more 1jz manifolds popping up and a few more people going through the motions of upgrading (like a few more people running the AEM). you'll see a lot of people jump on it.

[Brown Duckz]

I'm making a prediction after a little research that this mod with the 2jz-ge block will become the "new thing" in about another year's time.

Once you see more 1jz manifolds popping up and a few more people going through the motions of upgrading (like a few more people running the AEM). you'll see a lot of people jump on it.IMO it's the ultimate combo...

[Bean]

IMO it's the ultimate combo...

I agree. Bigger displacement than the 1jz, but the valvetrain to handle higher rpms. It'd definitely have a headstart on the 2jz-gte thats for sure.

[Jaxsc3]

my question is how is head flow comparative to the 2jzgtte head and the na head also? any one have any clue?

[scnat]

surprisingly on a flow bench, the n/a head flows better then the tt head.

[Jaxsc3]

i know the na head flows better than the tt head but i was wondering how well the 1jz head flows compared to either of those or if any one knew i think it would be interesting to see which head flows best

btw i like the avatar david heh :ylsuper:

[nismo013]

i know the na head flows better than the tt head but i was wondering how well the 1jz head flows compared to either of those or if any one knew i think it would be interesting to see which head flows best

btw i like the avatar david heh :ylsuper:


According to an article I read (I will post link later tonight) the 1jz-gte head flows better then a 2jz-gte.

[Brown Duckz]

According to an article I read (I will post link later tonight) the 1jz-gte head flows better then a 2jz-gte.This is what I believe to be correct.... also more rev= :boink:

[nismo013]

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/

Scroll down to Speed#12 Toyota 1jz/2jz tuning guide

Sorry about that Chino... :ylsuper:

[got_trd]

This thread is about a 1jz swap not a 2jz

[nismo013]

Fixed link ... :bowrofl: sorry bout that

[$C300]

hey guys the 1.5jz sounds kool but wont it cost more $$$$ then just doin a straight 1jz?

[Brown Duckz]

hey guys the 1.5jz sounds kool but wont it cost more $$$$ then just doin a straight 1jz?Well considering you are going to need a 2JZ block in addition to your 1JZ swap, I'd say you hit it right on the nose.

[got_trd]

hey guys the 1.5jz sounds kool but wont it cost more $$$$ then just doin a straight 1jz?


unless you use your original block and just bolt up everything included in the 1jz head and do some drilling for the oil lines

[Bean]

i know the na head flows better than the tt head but i was wondering how well the 1jz head flows compared to either of those or if any one knew i think it would be interesting to see which head flows best

btw i like the avatar david heh :ylsuper:
Can you confirm that claim? I know I never have been able to. The GE head has larger exhaust ports but SMALLER intake ports than the GTE. There's nothing there that shows the NA head flows better at all.

scnat says on a flowbench it does; but where's the numbers at?

According to an article I read (I will post link later tonight) the 1jz-gte head flows better then a 2jz-gte.

No it doesnt... not even close actually. It has a higher flow velocity but a lower flow volume... the 2jz head flows a good bit more than the 1jz head. I've seen data on this and I've talked to a couple shops that have experience with both. The reason the 1jz makes power higher in the rpm band is because of its oversquare design AND because of the port velocity setup... once you start making lots of power AND/OR have more displacement a la 1.5jz, the lower flow will start to hurt you.

The heads on the 2jz flow so much more in fact, that if you put a 2jz head onto a 1jz bottom-end, you cripple the motor by a nice margin because its TOO much airflow in the head.

[nismo013]

Thanks for setting me straight Bean .. sorry for posting bad info.. :(

[rising_sun]

Is this swap just as easy into a SC400?

[Bean]

Thanks for setting me straight Bean .. sorry for posting bad info.. :(

You didnt post bad info at all. You posted what you read in an article. If you still have the link to it, post it up so we can see it.

I might be wrong, I just go by the data I've reviewed over the years which is usually right :angel: But sometimes that data is wrong (like people claiming the stock GE block can only handle 600bhp before it blows back in the day)

[Brown Duckz]

You didnt post bad info at all. You posted what you read in an article. If you still have the link to it, post it up so we can see it.

I might be wrong, I just go by the data I've reviewed over the years which is usually right :angel: But sometimes that data is wrong (like people claiming the stock GE block can only handle 600bhp before it blows back in the day)There are too many variables in our "specific" motor to set an exact number and/or go by this generalization of our motors. Everything will respond different, people have blown motors at 300rwhp, also at 1000rwhp. As far as the "head" game goes...... only flow-test will seize that question. I particularly like the 8000rpm 1JZ head. :yumyum:

[Bean]

There are too many variables in our "specific" motor to set an exact number and/or go by this generalization of our motors. Everything will respond different, people have blown motors at 300rwhp, also at 1000rwhp. As far as the "head" game goes...... only flow-test will seize that question. I particularly like the 8000rpm 1JZ head. :yumyum:

Trouble is, that 8000rpm head moves air up that high because it has a higher port velocity. I'm getting all that info from the australian forums. It IS cool that you can strap it onto a 2jz block and make some decent power... but I dont see it making the same as an equivalent 2jz-gte setup

[1JZZ30]

Ah whoops! you extended your writeup; my bad for not paying attention :hay:

As far as the 330ohm resistor... if you have to wire it behind the instrument cluster, then is it possible to wire it down near the dash plugs next to the ecu so one does not have to get the instrument cluster out of the car? :)

The MSD Tach Adapter... does it have a specific 1jz-gte application or is this a generic piece?
note tghat yellow/green temp wire that requires the resistor does not go into the ecu . Its goes str8 to the sensor on engine to dash

[rising_sun]

I know this is a noobie question... But do all the wires of the 1JZ wire harness need to be extended? I've read many posts on Club Lex. Some say extend them all, Some say just the ECU plugs...???

[Brown Duckz]

I know this is a noobie question... But do all the wires of the 1JZ wire harness need to be extended? I've read many posts on Club Lex. Some say extend them all, Some say just the ECU plugs...???From what I understand it's all the wires that route into the cabin.........

[rising_sun]

Sounds good....Thanx!

[Arizona]

my 1.5 conversion is near completion(block is in the machine shop) AND Im single i'll let u guys know how that goes on clublexus.

[Brown Duckz]

my 1.5 conversion is near completion(block is in the machine shop) AND Im single i'll let u guys know how that goes on clublexus.What manifold/turbo/wastegate are you using?

[Bean]

I know this is a noobie question... But do all the wires of the 1JZ wire harness need to be extended? I've read many posts on Club Lex. Some say extend them all, Some say just the ECU plugs...???

From the 1jz god Himself, got_trd states in this tutorial that you need only extend the interior harness plugs... the ECU plug itself, you leave alone... only those plugs that plug in next to the ECU location. (if you pull up your carpet and check, you'll see what i mean)

[got_trd]

From the 1jz god Himself, got_trd states in this tutorial that you need only extend the interior harness plugs... the ECU plug itself, you leave alone... only those plugs that plug in next to the ECU location. (if you pull up your carpet and check, you'll see what i mean)


you can choose to extend the ecu plugs if you want your ecu to sit where its supposed to, which will save you alot of hassle later on when you try to hook up piggybacks or anything that splices into the ecu wires...

Or you can just leave the ecu plugs alone and let it sit on the floorboard but it will be up kind of close to the glovebox and makes any kind of tapping into the ecu harder due to the clearances...

some people say the harness fits fine and sits in the stock location fine, but I dont see how... I need to extend my harness one day when i get bored..

[Last5Spd]

wow thats some good info.. i thought we had to extend the entire harness.. only the ecu plugs makes it alot simplier...

[Bean]

wow thats some good info.. i thought we had to extend the entire harness.. only the ecu plugs makes it alot simplier...

No, you misread... the ECU plugs do not have to be extended

its the chassis plugs that have to be extended.

By not extending the ECU plugs, it will not sit in the stock location and will be more difficult to tap wires from (like for an AFC), but will save you the hassle of the knock sensor wires and other things :)

The chassis/dash plugs DO need to be extended, otherwise they will not reach

[Last5Spd]

No, you misread... the ECU plugs do not have to be extended

its the chassis plugs that have to be extended.

By not extending the ECU plugs, it will not sit in the stock location and will be more difficult to tap wires from (like for an AFC), but will save you the hassle of the knock sensor wires and other things :)

The chassis/dash plugs DO need to be extended, otherwise they will not reach


ok might as well extend all the damn wires...chino said the knock sensor wires should be sheilded. iam almost there.. just trying to get all the info i can.. engine will be ordered in a few days.. iam having an electrician extend the wires for me.. its gonna cost me like 50.00 to have it extended but i know he will do a great job...

[rising_sun]

Wow, this is all great info! I just ended up lengthening all the wire on the inside cabin part of the harness. But I am still confused about the knock sensor wires and USB cables.

Are the knock wires on the small connector with just black wires on them?

Can I use an aftermarket BOV without recirculating on the stock ECU?

[SoarerTT]

ok what throttle cable do we use here? I got a TT? cable part # 78180-1B090 and its about 1/2in too short to fit in the bracket.. is there another cable that fits?

[got_trd]

you think im gonna tell you as much as you doubt me and hate on me? :dunno:

[SoarerTT]

you think im gonna tell you as much as you doubt me and hate on me? :dunno:


you can either not help me get my car running with these minor issues and let me fart around with em for 1-2 weeks, or u can help me get this car running asap and we can settle our differences at the track when mines broken in like real men.

[Last5Spd]

tutorial says to use TT Cable... is that the right part number?

[dejacky]

Were are the tutorial pictures? :ugh2:

[got_trd]

settle at the track.... im down....

yes thats the part # for the tt throttle cable... what newbie doesnt know is that you can adjust the cable so its not tight, and there is a supra bracket for the cable available if your anal about it fitting on the bracket perfect....

[cherplex]

hmmmmm i want to see that "track" meet on video lol.

[SoarerTT]

well i got my harness about 80% on (just not tranny or lower driverside hookups). I still gotta extend the heater and blue PS line. I had the whole harness extended 24in, not 18in, it fits alot better in the foot area, alot more room to move it around. I got to also put my PS pump, and alt back on, and elec fan. And then make hardlines, and it should be startable.

my harness doenst have a 2 wire plug that goes to the powersteering system, o well i guess i wont have it shutoff at 45mph anymore...


As far as the throttle cable goes, the screw adjustment part doesnt even fit up to the bracket where it bolts and adjusts on.. i have a few ideas to extend it so it fits but thats not a big concern yet. My motor is a 1992 motor, i know most ppl's are 1991, i guess the bracket might be different? Maybe ill source a 2JZGTE or eariler year 1JZ bracket to see the difference.

I dont work on the car 24x7, maybe 2-3hrs a day 2-3 days a week, but ill have it running in time for the big lex/sup meet in orlando in november!

[Dramon]

So if you did a 1.5jz would you need to go standalone?

[Brown Duckz]

So if you did a 1.5jz would you need to go standalone?No need.... nothing electronically changes.

[Dramon]

Well, I was thinking since you had more displacement the computer would need change too becuase the stock maps wouldn't be able to adaquetly compensate.

[Brown Duckz]

Well, I was thinking since you had more displacement the computer would need change too becuase the stock maps wouldn't be able to adaquetly compensate.The increase in displacement sorts itself out...... there won't be any change, other than that - .5 liter increase.

[Brown Duckz]

Well... does anyone think they could do a detailed writeup on the wiring lengthening with pictures :bigok:

[kHoA DoGG]

ditto on the lengthening with pictures. This swap doesn't look as hard after working on motors swaps from hondas and nissan. Although, pictures would make it more helpful!

[got_trd]

here are the pics from my first 1jz swap i did: click here (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mj29277/album?.dir=7d9b&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mj29277/my_photos)


this is the link to the 2nd swap i did: click here (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mj29277/album?.dir=/80f4)

[Lexurious COupe]

The increase in displacement sorts itself out...... there won't be any change, other than that - .5 liter increase.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I thought I read that some sort of piggyback is needed to correct this at lower HP levels, and a standalone ECU at higher levels. I'm basing this assessment off of Bean's write up, so both you and he might be the ones need to answer that one.
Thanks!

[visionrx7]

Quick question... Is the swap the same when going into a sc400 other than the tach signal being wrong for the sc400's tach? We are going to be doing a sc to soarer swap at my shop, but we still need to pick up the shell and there is a sc400 very cheap and close.

[Brown Duckz]

I'm not sure about the wiring on the 400 considering the chassis wiring may be alot different.....

[Bean]

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I thought I read that some sort of piggyback is needed to correct this at lower HP levels, and a standalone ECU at higher levels. I'm basing this assessment off of Bean's write up, so both you and he might be the ones need to answer that one.
Thanks!

Nope, you dont. On a Honda you would; or some other car that runs a MAP SYSTEM stock. But the GE uses a Karman Vortex sensor that reads airflow; not a combination of pressure and temperature like MAP does. Two different means of figuring out how much air is in the system. MAP allows for more accurate tuning but requires retuning whenever something is changed. Karman Vortex (or any other mass-air system like hotwire, flapper, plunger, etc) doesnt need to be retuned... this is also why we can run boost using the stock ECU and the Hondas cant (without stuff to fool it anyways).

The increase in displacement will directly increase the airflow by a consistent amount. The AFM sensor can read this increase, and therefore the computer can easily compensate. In fact, there's so 'compensation' for the displacement increase. The computer only injects the amount of fuel and advances the timing based upon where the current airflow is on the ECU fuel/ignition maps.

[Lexurious COupe]

Nope, you dont. On a Honda you would; or some other car that runs a MAP SYSTEM stock. But the GE uses a Karman Vortex sensor that reads airflow; not a combination of pressure and temperature like MAP does. Two different means of figuring out how much air is in the system. MAP allows for more accurate tuning but requires retuning whenever something is changed. Karman Vortex (or any other mass-air system like hotwire, flapper, plunger, etc) doesnt need to be retuned... this is also why we can run boost using the stock ECU and the Hondas cant (without stuff to fool it anyways).

The increase in displacement will directly increase the airflow by a consistent amount. The AFM sensor can read this increase, and therefore the computer can easily compensate. In fact, there's so 'compensation' for the displacement increase. The computer only injects the amount of fuel and advances the timing based upon where the current airflow is on the ECU fuel/ignition maps.

Ahh... makes perfect sense! It doesn't matter how much air is being injested, b/c the computer will keep adding/cutting fuel to get to the correct AFR. :doh:

[KingCobra]

What was the MSD part number you used for your swap?


I would think that as long as its wired in there somewhere it should be fine. As far as the tach adapter, its a universal part. Ill post up the part # in a few days when I get around to updating the first post some more

[TWISTED II]

heres a noob question..... what is the USB cable for?

[Brown Duckz]

heres a noob question..... what is the USB cable for?It's for extending the shielded knock sensor cables. I used regular wire.

[TWISTED II]

It's for extending the shielded knock sensor cables. I used regular wire.

gotcha. thanks buddy :thumbup:

[soarerjzz30]

What was the MSD part number you used for your swap?

Yes what is the part #?

[TWISTED II]

Yes what is the part #?

Auto Meter - 01059117 Tach Adapter.

bought mine from JEGS for 110.97 shipped.

[Brown Duckz]

You guys should contact Chino about getting the tach fixed without using that adapter.

[soarerjzz30]

You guys should contact Chino about getting the tach fixed without using that adapter.

Oh, so there's a way to fix it without a tach adapter. Chino is Got_TRD right?

[Brown Duckz]

Oh, so there's a way to fix it without a tach adapter. Chino is Got_TRD right?That's right. Tell him I sent you.

[TWISTED II]

hey, quick question. i picked up the 330 ohm resistors today, and i got 1/4 watt and 1/2 watt cuz i wasn't sure which i needed. do they make a difference or should i use one over the other? TIA.

[2jzFlyBy]

hey where can i get a front clip? i looked on ebay and im finding just the motor, was thinking when i do a sc 1jz swap to place the jdm tach..lol, but ya let me know

[soarerjzz30]

www.venus-auto.com
www.jarcoinc.com
www.driftmotion.com
www.dragdriftautox.com
www.gspeedcorp.com

All these places carry clips.

You can get a motor set from www.jhotexports.com

[soarerjzz30]

So can we use the stock Soarer fuel pump if it came with the engine package? I noticed only the Supra TT and Walbro were mentioned.

[Lexurious COupe]

Not sure, but I'd replace it anyways because there's no telling how long it's just been sitting; cheap insurance to just put in a new pump.

hey where can i get a front clip? i looked on ebay and im finding just the motor, was thinking when i do a sc 1jz swap to place the jdm tach..lol, but ya let me know
From what I've heard, you can't swap the gauge pods on the two cars without doing the entire RHD conversion.

[soarerjzz30]

Hey, on the 330 ohm resistor's, which one do we get? 1/2 watt or 1/4 watt?

[rising_sun]

The 1.5JZ swap on the GE block... How do you swap the crank angle sensor from the 1J... The NA block doesn't have 1

[jzz-30B]

Intercooler help please. Can we order Supra TT Intercooler piping or intercooler kits for the SC3 and it fit perfectly? Does the Supra Turbo have a SMIC (stock) exaclty like ours? Thanks for you help.

[Superorb]

here are the pics from my first 1jz swap i did: click here (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mj29277/album?.dir=7d9b&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mj29277/my_photos)


this is the link to the 2nd swap i did: click here (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mj29277/album?.dir=/80f4)
These pics look like they all came from Tallahassee. A lot of the houses look just like this.

[Prshrzd]

The 1.5JZ swap on the GE block... How do you swap the crank angle sensor from the 1J... The NA block doesn't have 1


I should be just like said for the GTE head swap onto the ge block this is what (SupraTico Supra Forums) said. You need the crankshaft timing pulley for the crank pos. sensor to read off of and you're most likely gonna have to get the TT oil pump to mount the sensor (which you also need to purchase). Some people have found that their NA oil pumps are the same as the TT ones and have a place for the crank position sensor there. I don't know the details on that but these might be leftover TT pumps used on NA cars, or cars with VVT-i, I'm not sure how this goes.

So just use the crankshaft timing pulley from the 1jz and get a TT oil pump and that should do the trick correct me if im wrong later, Curt

[LyFeWoRx]

If you are doing this swap on an SC400 do you need an SC300 driveshaft?

[TWISTED II]

so, i see on the first post, it says the 1jz will bolt up to the sc trans. well, my car got towed to the shop today to get the sc trans put on the 1jz and they said it is not going to work due to the 1jz having an "input sensor" and the sc trans not having a spot to plug that in. thoughts?

[TWISTED II]

here is a pic of the sensor in question. the guy said its a magnetic sensor, kinda like a crank position sensor. any idea what it is and if i need it? i thought it may be for where the motor senses to retard the ignition timing, but, i don't know.

http://www.mariosphotolab.com/Random/0122071142.jpg

[Turb0wned]

What about if its a 1jz-gte out of a supra...? Any harder? what ecu will be needed and what wiring harness?

[Biggu]

is there a write up for over riding the neutral switch to use a auto ecu on a auto car?

[Lexurious COupe]

I think so, but you might wanna check ClubLexus or SupraForums, depending on your car...

[greenzombie2]

Well im about to do the 1j into my 95 supra i was wondering where the stock boost cut is ?