2jzge

[Memphisacc]

What you've said abou the NA-T application for some reason isn't ringing true to me for some reason. Im having trouble following all that information.

Can you better explain what your application is for the Na-t non vvti....manifold, ic piping, option of diff turbo for auto and manual applications ?!? so on....

If youd prefer me to email you let me know.(if you would prefer this thread non be here)


Thanks.

[98mkiv]

The GE manifold T4 flange angles the turbo so it clears a VVTi head. The GE motors with a distributor (pre97) require that you use the smaller 3" inlet turbo which barely clears the distributor.

If you use a larger turbo (4" inlet) then you need to change the angle the turbo sits at relative to the head. This is accomplished using a weld on flange. I don't suggest this for a few reasons. First, your NA motor will need to have a different head gasket to lower compression, secondly, your driveline will be taxed (READ AS: broken) if you push too much power thru it. I suggest starting with the smaller turbo, and enjoying. At a later date, upgrading to a bigger turbo is not that much mechanical work. Keep in mind this is a budget kit, which should allow you to go NA-T without breaking the bank. Once you get into driveline mods (built tranny, R154, V160, etc) then you start getting into big $$. For a budget kit, this turbo can be run on the wastegate spring (9-10psi) with no boost controller and minimal electronics & fuel changes.

[Dramon]

regarding the weld on flange...what about this situation. I have roughly 4 cm between the hotside of my turbo and the pipe going into my TB using 2.5inch piping going into a reducer. If you weld on a flange then how would you have any room at all to fit the turbo and not have it hit the piping?

[98mkiv]

Please post a pic, since I'm not 100% sure I am on the same page as you. I'll try to answer it anyway, correct me if I am wrong. By hot side, you mean the turbine (not compressor, AKA cold) side. Are you using an XSPower manifold? and if yes, how new is it? With 40mm of space, you can run a 3" downpipe and still have 3.5cm space (the difference in radius is 6.4mm between 2.5 and 3" downpipes). You would of course need to wrap the downpipe with thermal insulation (header-wrap) so you aren't roasting your intake mani sensors!

Thanks
Mark

[AdamSupra]

OK, here is the question I need answered.... I have a 92 Sc300 (2JZ-GE).

Besides ordering the kit, what else do I need to buy in order for this to all work out ? I am just trying to get an idea for how much more money I need other then the kit.

I know I need the IC piping and AFC. Couplers ? Air filter ? But do I need to do anything with the fuel ? New walboro pump maybe ? Head Gasket ?

Please let me know as I am very interested ....

[98mkiv]

you'll need a WB02 ($200) intercooler piping ($3-400 depending on how elaborate, the materials, etc - I offer a kit for $130, that will get you most of the way there), air filter ($20) fuel pump ($100) FPR ($20-$150 depending on how elaborate you get). Possibly injectors depending on how much power you intened to make ($40 to $400 again, depends). Head gasket is optional, your original gasket is ok for about 7-9 psi without detonation issues, but if you boost higher, you should monitor knock or change your head gasket.

Good questions to ask, I am sure many others were wondering the same thing. The best thing to do is make a plan and stick to it... do you want max HP right away or do you want to ease into it over time?

thanks,
Mark

[AdamSupra]

Thanks for the quick response Mark. I also forgot to ask you, does the down pipe have a flex joint in it by chance or no ? And also, can I substitute the xs BOV for a different one ? And how long is shipping usually ?

[98mkiv]

shipping happens within 2 business days (I have to say that, but it's usually the same day) of your payment being recieved. You can substitute the BOV for a different BOV, I mention in the ad that you can get the TiAL style for an added cost or if you prefer, at no added cost, you can get the Blitz DD style instead.

The DP doesn't come with flex. In the install guidlines, I recommend getting a piece of 3" dia x6" or x 8" long from verocious and having it put into your midpipe. I am going to be offering a midpipe soon that will go with the TRD exhaust I sell, it will bolt up to stock twins so you will have a complete turbo-back system. You could use this pipe with my single kit and have an exhaust shop weld a flange to it - which is exactly what I did. It's polished 3" stainless, looks killer and the flex from verocious is also stainless (which can be welded with normal wire) and when it's all together looks great and offers good ground clearance (as good as stock if it's installed properly).

[TRD4Life05]

Thanks for the quick response Mark. I also forgot to ask you, does the down pipe have a flex joint in it by chance or no ? And also, can I substitute the xs BOV for a different one ? And how long is shipping usually ?

I added a flex section to my XS down pipe. Its really pretty easy. The down pipe is a perfect fit to begin with. Cutting and welding a flex to it didnt take very long at all. Flex isnt 100% needed but can extend the life of your manifold and other hot side pipes.