Dizzy clearance questions

[2jzget]

I have one XS GE exhaust manifold wich will be used on a GE supra converted direct ignition. Distributor clearance will not be an issue. I'm going to buy another GE manifold to use on an SC300. It's been said that they will clear the distributor with a 3" inlet turbo. The pics I have been able to come up with don't show this excatly. All pics below have 3" inlet turbos. In the pictur below ythe dizzy "plate" had to be cut just for the turbo to be bolted on.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c115/eblick99/lexus%20sc%20turbo%20work/littleturbonope2.jpg
http://www.supracharged.com/gs300/turbo/tt-intake.jpg
http://www.supracharged.com/gs300/turbo/gs300_na-t.jpg

These pics use a manifold with braces on each runner not the same manifols that XS sells, or so I think. In any case the distributor clearance is quite different than the pics above
http://josh.leckner.us/ebay_na-t/na-t_with_turbo-1.JPG
http://josh.leckner.us/ebay_na-t/na-t_with_turbo-2.JPG
http://josh.leckner.us/ebay_na-t/na-t_with_turbo-4.JPG

Question is will I still need to clock the flangejust a bit in order to fit a 3" inlet turbo.
Anyone have better pics?

[98mkiv]

First off, please post how you're going distributorless.... it's the way to go. I've done it with the E-Manage Ultimate, and I'd like to see some other takes on it.

At the minimum you need to remove the heat sheild (cut it) as shown. In some instances you will clear with only that having been done. In other instances you will need to oversize drill the holes in the flange and in the turbo, allowing you to clock it without welding a flange on. It's only a few degrees you need. With the 4" inlet you must weld a flange on to use with the distributor GE motor.

I recommend sealng everything up well (turbo and motor) when drilling and I DO NOT suggest using a DREMEL or other grinder - too many small particles flyiing around.

On a side note, the turbo chargers in the pix wont last very long since the oil inlet and drain are not vertical.

There are other approaches, but yes, you may need to get creative to clear the distributor.

Thanks
Mark

[2jzget]

Thanks for the info

Currently the supra is running the eManage ultimate with 880cc injectors, a TT MAf on an OBDII ecu. Currently running 22psi with a somewhat rich a/f ratio (rich for my taste anyway)
The intention was to go distributorless with the eManage ultimate but that chaged after getting a sweet deal on a brand new AEM. We were also going to us an MKIII CPS but decided to use the stock distributor with a custom low profile "dummy" cap. No need to source a CPS

[98mkiv]

that's ironic, if you search in past post on SF, I offered a CNC'd aluminum, black anodized dist. cap for just that reason.....

I can still make them if anyone else wants one.

Thanks for your input and please post more info about your setup, its good to hear of NA-T success stories.

[Dramon]

http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/data/500/russturbo_003.jpg

kinda gets in the way a lil bit.

[98mkiv]

that's about right, but if your trim of the end of the silicone a little on the turbo side, the radius won't interfere with the distributor as much. Also it looks like that has not had the holes opened up yet so you can get a few degrees of rotation out of it...
that is a dirty tube!

[Dramon]

holes opened up a bit?

I read what you were saying earlier but what exactly does this mean? You drill the holes bigger....but how does this give you more rotation. I understand the general concept, however wouldn't you then need larger studs? Or do you simple drill and tap to the side resulting in something of a figure 8 as far as your holes go?

[98mkiv]

I'd take this in stages. First, loosely fit everything in place... tighten the mani to the head with 4 nuts, so it's not a PITA to remove later. Then I would install the studs in the mani T4 flange, check your fit. Now play with the 45 degree 3" inlet hose a little, if it's silicone, rubbing on the dist is no issue. You can trim one end of it to tuck the radius in a little closer to the turbo, which might give you clearance. If that's not adequate, you can then oversize the holes on the turbo flange. Now check to see if you have adequate rotation. Don't oversize the holes to the point that your hardware isn't going to work of course. If you need more rotation (should be there, but....) then you can open the holes up in the mani flange and use loose hardware (Bolt,Nut,washer, lock washer) instead of the studs. I suggest stainless hardware. If you increase the diameter of the hardware to match the holes, then you will loose the adjustment you made, so you should keep the same diameter hardware you started with. Alternately, if you get some black high strength hardware (real stuff, not imitation cheap crap that is available at home depot, but true high tensile strenght hardware) you can reduce the size of the hardware diameter and get even more adjustability. This might even be your first approach rather than drilling the holes oversize - use high strength smaller diameter hardware. The clearance is fine on the VVTi, but yes, you need to make some choices to clear the distributor.

People who have done this, please post your pix and describe your solutions.

[soarerflame]

Go to a local screw supplier and get some grade 8.8 bolts that are a bit smaller and take your manifold off and set in a vise but be careful not to break anything. take a rotozip with a stone wheel that fits in the hole and notch all 4 bolts to give you more adjustment. We have a spare manifold here that we notched towards the back allowing us to use a 4" to 3" reduce on the turbo so it clears the distirbutor. Good Luck bro.

[2jzget]

We have a spare manifold here that we notched towards the back allowing us to use a 4" to 3" reduce on the turbo so it clears the distirbutor. Good Luck bro.
Great idea
A pic would be nice

[Dramon]

the oil feed and return have to be perfectly verticle? I have mine clocked roughly 10 degrees...

[98mkiv]

You would want them to be vertical if at all possible. If you are worred about the drain and heat problems, you can wrap the drain line in 1/4" thick header wrap (the fake asbestos looking stuff works great) and then it can rest right on the header, no problem.

The turbo shaft runs on plain bearins (sleeve, no balls) and the oil literally pours onto the shaft, then drips off into the drain. Pretty simple, but it works best when you dump it onto the shaft vertically. 10 degrees is probably fine.

[suprapunk]

in what order would you recommend getting rid of the dist? i know aem is choice number one, what else?

[98mkiv]

well, emanage ultimate will do the job as well, but the AEM is choice #1. Got your PM and I recommend getting a different, smaller turbo (3" inlet).

Thanks,
Mark