1.5JZ -- Hybrid motor build

[MadMaxx]

SC300 1.5JZ hybrid motor build

Why a 1.5JZ:

The 1JZ motor is an excellent motor. It is extremely smooth in it's power delivery, and hums along all day. The only real problem is that it gives up some torque, but still has a very quick spool thanks to the ceramic (light weight) compressors. The goal of this build is to combine the best of both worlds - the extra torque and hp potential of the 3.0L bottom end with the quick spool and smooth valve train of the 1JZ top end. The increased displacement will spool the stock 1JZ turbos damn near instantly (1800rpm) and provide a 20% increase in power at the same boost level vs. it's 2.5L counterpart. Even with its low boost limit, the added displacement should put this motor into the 400rwhp range with proper fuel while having more than excellent street manors. This build focuses on using a NA bottom end with a 1JZ-GTE top end. The NA bottom end is good for excesses of 600rwhp, and will work just fine. The motor doesn't have to come out for this swap, but it's easier to take everything out as a whole for the build (engine/trans/harness).

What you will need:

-Complete 1JZ head (Coil packs, valve covers, sensors and internals)
-1JZ turbo assembly (manifold, turbos, turbo piping)
-1JZ intake manifold w/ throttle body
-2JZ SMIC w/ piping or FMIC w/ piping - Any 2JZ TT flavor will work
-Stock TT throttle cable
-New OEM headbolts or ARP studs (cheap insurance)
-MSD tach converter or 1JZ-GTE tach
-Braided lines and flanges for oil feed/returns into GE block
-Drill bit assortment, tap (for oil lines)
-Supra TT power steering coupler (nipple) or complete TT power steering reservoir
-2JZ-GTE headgaskets
-2JZ-GTE downpipe - ebay special, will require some modification
-2JZ-GTE/GE camgears - Stockers off your NA head will be fine *checking to see if this is needed, but pretty sure it is w/ the 2JZ t-belt*

- Harness - You have some options here. All depends on where you want to go with it. I'd use a soarer/mk3 harness and cut out what you need for splicing it into a 2JZ-GE existing harness w/ 2JZ ecu. Or you could lengthen the entire soarer 1JZ harness if you are going to use a 1JZ ecu.

-2JZ-GTE JDM (map) ECU or 1JZ ECU if you end up using a complete soarer harness (will require a fuel controller for added displacement). Or, spring for an AEM if you just got the cash . The JDM 2JZ ECU will work just fine, especially if you are using the 440s and MAP layout. It will act just like a stock tune of a 2JZ-GTE (JDM) motor. 1JZ ecu (soarer) will also be OK, although I'm still not convinced it will handle the added displacement. Some say no problem, some say no. I need to consult the Aussies for the answers, they got many more hybrids than we do

-440cc JDM injectors w/ JDM MAP - nice drop-in upgrade for the 1JZ
-a SAFC (original) would be a good bit to throw in there for cheap too for a bit of extra tuning
-Fuel pump
-1JZ auto trans - The JDM ECU will drive the 1JZ trans with some modifications, I am working on this now. Of course, the 1JZ will power it no problems, and the NA ecu will as well.

-Tools – Jackstands, sockets, etc.


Plan your attack:

Find yourself a 1JZ engine. These have gone for as little as a grand depending on where you get them, but be prepared to have the possibility of blown turbos. If you get one w/ the PS pump and resevoir, you can skip the modification step and just use that. Inspect it if possible for shaftplay and compression. What you're really after is the top end, but start with the best platform you can. The 1JZ bottom end is worth 500$ or so on the market, depending on who is looking NA 2JZ head is also worth a little bit, especially if the valvestems aren't leaking or anything. If you can get the soarer harness with the motor, great. Source out the rest of your parts on the forums and whatnot. I'd figure 2K in parts for the build on the low end (before selling off stuff).

Strip the motor:
Strip all your components needed from the 1JZ and set them aside
[removal instructions]

Remove the wiring harness from the SC300 and set it aside

2JZ disassembly instructions
[removal instructions]

-Drilling the oil returns:
-power steering reservoir modification

Harness extension - pin removal and diagram

Head installation

[MadMaxx]

I'll update more soon, started pulling appart the GE motor last night on the stand (w/ pics this time hehe). Alot of good info in The 1JZ swap sticky at the top of the page too, alot of the same parts requirements

[got_trd]

I see alot of false information

[ki_soarer]

hmmmmm.... ill wait and see where this one goes. :ugh2:

[scnat]

ric is that you:bsflag: :bsflag: :bsflag: :bsflag: :bsflag:

[Brown Duckz]

ric is that you:bsflag: :bsflag: :bsflag: :bsflag: :bsflag:Not that ass-wipe....... :mad:

[Bean]

why use a 2jz supra harness and ecu when you can use a soarer harness which PLUGS DIRECTLY INTO the SC plugs? Just use a 1jz ecu, it has a map-based system, it can calculate how much fuel to add based upon air volume.

The 2jz-gte headgasket will only drop the compression down to 9.1:1 or so

You'll need a 2-3mm headgasket to drop it more... I'd be going with a 2.5. Its kinda vague here. I think we can all wait until the final product though :)

[MadMaxx]

Headgaskets if you look closely. IE: Stack them. But in all actuality, a 9:1 CR would work fine for a <400rwhp stock twin application since you brought it up.

Also, this is for an SC300... so if you're modifying the GE harness, you modifying an **SC300** harness, not supra. IE: They plug in to all the body plug locations, as it's a factory harness :rolleyes: I opted to use a 2JZ ecu for fuel cut reasons, and mainly since I had all the required parts on hand already. But just like the post said... you can easily run a lengthened 1JZ harness and ecu instead. It's really no different than installing a 1JZ (hence referencing a sticky) except you're building a motor prior to swap.

So before everyone jumps down my throat, try readingthe actual post again. It's a work in progress. If you got info, then add it. Throwing out comments of "ric is that you" (wtf is that all about?) isn't really helping.

[Bean]

Headgaskets if you look closely. IE: Stack them. But in all actuality, a 9:1 CR would work fine for a <400rwhp stock twin application since you brought it up.

Also, this is for an SC300... so if you're modifying the GE harness, you modifying an **SC300** harness, not supra. IE: They plug in to all the body plug locations, as it's a factory harness :rolleyes: I opted to use a 2JZ ecu for fuel cut reasons, and mainly since I had all the required parts on hand already. But just like the post said... you can easily run a lengthened 1JZ harness and ecu instead. It's really no different than installing a 1JZ (hence referencing a sticky) except you're building a motor prior to swap.

So before everyone jumps down my throat, try readingthe actual post again. It's a work in progress. If you got info, then add it. Throwing out comments of "ric is that you" (wtf is that all about?) isn't really helping.

I think I see what you're saying. You're talking about using the factory harness and setting it up to run the 1jz? Just using a 2jz-gte ecu instead of a ge right?

[MadMaxx]

I think I see what you're saying. You're talking about using the factory harness and setting it up to run the 1jz? Just using a 2jz-gte ecu instead of a ge right?


Yeah. I have a mk3 harness who's ECU connector side is pretty much junk. So I cut out all the connectors I needed (coil packs, cam sensor, etc) and then removed the pins on the GE harness side. Basically converting a few wires over to the GE harness to make a hybrid SC300/GTE style harness. The bulk of the harness stays the same.. grounds, body plugs, etc. Just have to re-pin the harness with a JDM 2JZ-GTE layout. If I had a 1JZ harness and ECU i'd have just gone that route (but couldn't find any up for sale :( )

James (Not to be confused with anyone named Ric : :beer: )

[Kirk]

Thanks for the post, when its complete let me know and I will copy it to the read-only forums :)

[Deuces Wild]

I'm pretty sure this is the route that I will go as well. I'm an auto so it seems that finding the 1jz with auto is always the cheapest clip.

One thing that I have been thinking about that has never been discussed is smogging a 1.5jz here in Cali. What I am pondering is that the 1.5 can be made smog legal but it will only work with the mkiv Supra. Since the mkiv was offered with both the turbo and na engines you can swap the turbo engine into a NA chassis and get it smogged at any regular test only station without having to get the swap certified by a referee because this would fall under the engine change clause. So if I were to swap on all of the TT smog gear and run a auto TT ecu (pre obdII anyways luckily I have a 93) I think I could get away with it.

Looking at all the pics I can find I don't see much visual difference between the engines that a regular test only tech would notice. Only issues I am concerned with are will the stock mkiv TT downpipe bolt up to the 1jz turbos? Also will there be any issues tapping in the EGR into the 1jz exhaust or intake manifolds?

Or better yet are there any scans of a Toyota repair manual with the 1jz or should I just order one from Japan?

[Arizona]

Heres what I got right now, 1jz Head, GE Bottom end with BN TT Pistons and Rods. 2jz timing belt. 1jz harness,(cross wired for gte AEM EMS) GM 5bar map, GM IAT Sensor. Greddy Manifold, A "T4 Frame Turbo" 8), all the stuff that goes with being single turbo. I have a brand new 1jz Headgasket should I switch to 2jzgte? Ihave a 1jzgte throttle cable so that should be fine. I need the MSD Tach Converter. Why do I need a 2jzgte power steering coupler (nipple) or complete TT power steering reservoir? why cant I use the my GE's? And I assume Im just tapping the oil pan for oil. Anything else I might need?

[Bean]

1jz or 2jzgte headgasket won't matter, they are interchangeable (ie. the same thickness)

As far as the power steering stuff goes... ever checked where the powersteering reservoir is located? Its right to the front of the manifold... if the car were running a TT-style intake manifold, then the intercooler piping/TB would have to go through the location that it occupies. It has to be relocated... the easiest way being to use the TT version and lines...

Yeah you drill the stock oil pan return with a 7/8" holesaw and the bolt-holes around it with 6mm... any GE-style oil line kit will offer a flange that bolts up to this location.
Don't forget the oil feed... tap a 1/8" NPT hole/thread into the top of the union bolt located next to the oil filter on the driver-side of the motor.

Sounds like you're going to have fun :D Make sure you take pics!!!

[kietlander]

any updates on this?? would this be easier/cheaper to do then to swap in a 1jz?

[kaukau]

If 1.5J half swap is possible, that would be fantastic.
Because at the first place, you will save your time (less work)
then perfomance wise, 1.5J logically would perform better than 1JZ. Besides, it would be the cheapest modification of gaining horse power on sc300. Maybe there are some reason why people do not take this route but there are lots of people did this mod overseas and a few in states. .... I would like to have an update for 1.5J project from Mr./Mrs MadMaxx sooner. Thank you.

[tank]

yes i too am interested seeing that im not getting a 2jz and i have a complete 1jz sitting in my garage motor tranny ecu harness pipes and intercooler hows this coming along and is there anywhere else where info on this swap can be found.

[kaukau]

I have a couple check-figure questions:

I read almost all 1.5J threads...I need accurate information or hear from someone has done 1.5JGE.

1 . Does a 1JZ head bolt correctly to a GE block.
2: Dose the GE block have oil feed that is already tapped.
3: If the turbos are vacuum why not use the existing wiring harness and plug the 1JZ CPU into the car harness.
4: will the 1JZ accept the distributor from the GE block or is there not enough room, if that's the case than I understand the wiring part.
5: Can I bring this together under $2500 (DIY) or should I go out and get a 3rd gen RX7?

Thank you for sharing valuable knowledge and help.

[Brown Duckz]

4: will the 1JZ accept the distributor from the GE block or is there not enough room, if that's the case than I understand the wiring part.

Exactly what do the distributor and the block have to do with each other?

[Lexurious COupe]

"1 . Does a 1JZ head bolt correctly to a GE block. "
I've got to say that I'm wondering this, also.

Also, does anyone have any parts sources? I know that a TON of places sell clips and/or engine sets, but they aren't going to sell me JUST the head and ex. manifold. Any help? Thanks!

[Brown Duckz]

"1 . Does a 1JZ head bolt correctly to a GE block. "
I've got to say that I'm wondering this, also.

Also, does anyone have any parts sources? I know that a TON of places sell clips and/or engine sets, but they aren't going to sell me JUST the head and ex. manifold. Any help? Thanks!I would buy a complete motor set and get it running first, then build the 3.0 block on the side. You can sell off any 1JZ parts........

[Lexurious COupe]

That seems like a lot of "wasted" effort; basically having to pull an engine twice instead of just once. I just assume do it all at once since the downtime would be less since I'm only doing one swap and I can, in theory, do all of this on the side since I have the extra engine anyways. So why would you get the 2.5 going first?

So I take it the 1JZ head and the GE block will mate with no problems, right?

[tank]

any updates on this

[Bean]

I have a couple check-figure questions:

I read almost all 1.5J threads...I need accurate information or hear from someone has done 1.5JGE.

1 . Does a 1JZ head bolt correctly to a GE block.
2: Dose the GE block have oil feed that is already tapped.
3: If the turbos are vacuum why not use the existing wiring harness and plug the 1JZ CPU into the car harness.
4: will the 1JZ accept the distributor from the GE block or is there not enough room, if that's the case than I understand the wiring part.
5: Can I bring this together under $2500 (DIY) or should I go out and get a 3rd gen RX7?

Thank you for sharing valuable knowledge and help.

Guys, you're making it out to be more complicated than it really is :hay:

Its nothing but the 1jz head going onto the 2jz-GE block
Ask yourself, does any of the wiring harness plug into the block? NO!
Confirm for yourself, all the engine harness plugs into the head right? YES!

To answer the above questions:
1) Yes, if you did a little research you would have found the answer a long time ago. 1jz-gte and 2jz-gte headgaskets are interchangeable; (ie. same thickness, same bolt pattern, same water passages)

2) Did you do any research on NA-T setups at all? The spot is there on the block, its just not drilled out; and no the bolt-holes on the sides of it where the flange would go are NOT tapped. If you did a little more research, you would have not needed to ask this question.

3) If the turbos use vacuum? I'm not understanding that question. The 1jz ECU will not plug into the harness for one thing... and even if it did; it is looking for a MAP sensor, individual coil packs for the ignition, and a slew of other things that are not on the 2jz-ge. Again, if you did a little research, you would know.

4) Why on earth would you want to switch the distributor? The 1jz has individual coil-on-plug ignition; this is contained in the HEAD; its not on the block.

5) You can do it for under $2500 if you're smart... but you need to RESEARCH MORE. It sounds like you read the idea in a magazine somewhere and the first thing you did was post here. $2500 or a 3rd gen? hmmm.... the RX-7 is around $8000, thats a big difference in price I think? Besides, the 1.5jz SC300 would be faster and still more reliable than the RX-7


GUYS!!! Its not that difficult! :D You are doing a 1jz swap into the SC300!!!! The ONLY difference is you're using a 2jz-ge block instead of the 1jz-gte block... you only need to make the provisions for it to work (oil lines drilled, different head gasket, timing belt). ITS VERY VERY SIMPLE.

And stop asking if its been done before :) Its been done MANY times; especially in Australia.

[Lexurious COupe]

Lots-o-stuff...!
:owned:


Bean, for the record, you're my hero. lol :D
I was wondering what the hell the wiring and head/block combo had to do with each other. Thanks for clearing it up. :thumbup:

[kaukau]

well... you may want to check a link at the club lexus forum as well.
I didnt quite get some of replies there...but hope you can see some replies on the thread for your questions, too.

here the link:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181939&page=1&pp=15

[Lexurious COupe]

Yea I gotta say...
Sorry, but for starters, the head doesn't increase displacement, the bottom end does. If anything, as somebody pointed out, adding the 1JZ head would be pointless at most other than saying that you did it. The GE pistons are nowhere near as strong as the GTE since they were made to take forced induction. So basically you're adding a new head for the turbos to a block thatwasn't made to take turbos equals something blowing up. Just do a true 1.5JZ or 2JZ and be done with it.
Was he kidding? It's not like the GTE pistons are forged and the GE are tin.... they're just as strong! I can't believe he said that... Thanks for that post!!!!! I had not seen that thread on CL.com, that's DEFINATELY one more valuable resource for this conversion.

yeah!!

[kaukau]

no offense for anyone who made a post on 1.5JGE swap but I see too much wrong information and some of info are lead to a wrong direction even...Some of post there here did not make sense to me. so I just made a simple question to clarify what the 1.5JGE swap is for myself. I just wanted to hear a real voice from the person who has done 1.5JGE swap before. No offense but no point for me to chat or see wrong info from someone who never done a 1.5JGE before. Hope I will be able to make a tutorial for 1.5J swap on CL forum or somewhere one day. :drama:
However...gotta love the strong compression of 2JZGE motor...

[Bean]

well... you may want to check a link at the club lexus forum as well.
I didnt quite get some of replies there...but hope you can see some replies on the thread for your questions, too.

here the link:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181939&page=1&pp=15

I dont post there, nor read any posts there any longer :)

no offense for anyone who made a post on 1.5JGE swap but I see too much wrong information and some of info are lead to a wrong direction even...Some of post there here did not make sense to me. so I just made a simple question to clarify what the 1.5JGE swap is for myself. I just wanted to hear a real voice from the person who has done 1.5JGE swap before. No offense but no point for me to chat or see wrong info from someone who never done a 1.5JGE before. Hope I will be able to make a tutorial for 1.5J swap on CL forum or somewhere one day. :drama:
However...gotta love the strong compression of 2JZGE motor...

Most of the experts are here :) People who have done 2jz-gte, 1jz-gte and NA-T installs... the 1.5GE install is not difficult at all to understand IF

1) you have done or can understand how to do a 1jz-gte swap, its plug and play minus extending a few wires and bridging a couple others.

2) you understand the basic mechanics behind automobile engines and know certain facts about the JZ series of engines

Best advice I can give, is pay attention to the people who have done these things. Don't pay attention to 'VJ RC51' on Clublex or 'Lextreme' on Clublex... they talk it up like they know... but they don't. I hate to go after specific people; but those two spread around more misinformation than I thought was possible.

I understand its very easy to get confused. I hate to be biased; but there is good information here on this forum. Its very legit. Its moderated by and constantly visited by people who have done these swaps themselves (multiple times for many, or some even own shops/businesses).

Too legit... too legit to quit!!! :hay: :hay:

And yes the stock compression rocks :) It offers quite a bit of responsiveness and that's a lot of fun in a daily driver for sure.

Yea I gotta say...

Was he kidding? It's not like the GTE pistons are forged and the GE are tin.... they're just as strong! I can't believe he said that... Thanks for that post!!!!! I had not seen that thread on CL.com, that's DEFINATELY one more valuable resource for this conversion.

yeah!!

I agree... the GE pistons are VERY strong. Spend $0 on a 2jz-ge long block... or $1500 on a 2jz-gte short block. HMMM

[Lexurious COupe]

I agree... the GE pistons are VERY strong. Spend $0 on a 2jz-ge long block... or $1500 on a 2jz-gte short block. HMMM
Oh, same here... I just thougt it was hilarious; The pistons are a different design, yes, but that doesn't make them weaker! Ugh, I have yet to even break down my old 2JZ blokc and I know that.
But thanks to EVERYONE for contributing to this thread. The more info the better. I won't be able to do anything major to my car for a while (college, and I need a reliable car), but I'm slowly learning about my options as the day draws nearer. Thanks again everyone!

[MadMaxx]

Hey gents.

Sorry I haven't updated this post in a while, most of my stuck is packed away. I'm slowly getting to the point where I can work on all this stuff again :)

James

[Bean]

Oh, same here... I just thougt it was hilarious; The pistons are a different design, yes, but that doesn't make them weaker! Ugh, I have yet to even break down my old 2JZ blokc and I know that.
But thanks to EVERYONE for contributing to this thread. The more info the better. I won't be able to do anything major to my car for a while (college, and I need a reliable car), but I'm slowly learning about my options as the day draws nearer. Thanks again everyone!


After I get into the military and out of AIT and Airborne school, I'll be picking up a completely different car. It will also be very reliable. :) I understand the feeling.

[kaukau]

The way I approached to have an 1.5J was actually not correct, I think now. Because I wanted to keep my 2JZGE motor on my car, just lazy extending wires and cables plus getting unknown 1JZ on my car. So I went to lazy 1.5J swap way, however I realized that 1.5J swap could be the last choice to have the most horse power out of 1JZ motor which has a single turbo tune or lots of mod been done. I guess I took it a wrong way that they (au, jp) utilized 2JZ bottom to tune up 1JZ motor, not use 1JZ to tune up 2JZ motor. Because even I did it, 2JZGE+1JZhead swap stock, it produced 217kw max @ 6-8psi with hasstle on wiring, change in lay-out, and time consuming.
Almost got same benchmarking for 1JZ swap. Hopely I can get some $$ out of selling 1JZ bottom or other parts came with a front clip.
Money wise, this could be a cheapest way in order to have a horse power gain on SC300/400.
1JZ single +2JZGTE/GE mostly makes 600hp around are found and those are depending on a set up.
$2,000 for motor + time efficiency = stock 225hp + 70hp gain max.
DIY, labor not included. If you need a labor, it will cost you more.
If I want to go further than that, simply I should have gone NA-t way directly, because its going to be cheaper, less in time and ease on labor. $3k-$5K range, you would be able to go 350hp+
I am ignoring a flavor of the sound 1JZ makes.

I guess that 1.5J swap would be a reasonable plan for less in expense. It could be a choice to have a better in time efficiency than complete 1JZ swap, this is what I personally think and realized after all work. blah blah blah...please excuse for my broken language.

[Lexurious COupe]

I do not think I am understanding you correctly. Did you put the 1JZ head on the 2JZ block? And are you saying you are not happy with the results? Correct me if I am wrong, thanks!

[MadMaxx]

The way I approached to have an 1.5J was actually not correct, I think now. Because I wanted to keep my 2JZGE motor on my car, just lazy extending wires and cables plus getting unknown 1JZ on my car. So I went to lazy 1.5J swap way, however I realized that 1.5J swap could be the last choice to have the most horse power out of 1JZ motor which has a single turbo tune or lots of mod been done. I guess I took it a wrong way that they (au, jp) utilized 2JZ bottom to tune up 1JZ motor, not use 1JZ to tune up 2JZ motor. Because even I did it, 2JZGE+1JZhead swap stock, it produced 217kw max @ 6-8psi with hasstle on wiring, change in lay-out, and time consuming.
Almost got same benchmarking for 1JZ swap. Hopely I can get some $$ out of selling 1JZ bottom or other parts came with a front clip.
Money wise, this could be a cheapest way in order to have a horse power gain on SC300/400.
1JZ single +2JZGTE/GE mostly makes 600hp around are found and those are depending on a set up.
$2,000 for motor + time efficiency = stock 225hp + 70hp gain max.
DIY, labor not included. If you need a labor, it will cost you more.
If I want to go further than that, simply I should have gone NA-t way directly, because its going to be cheaper, less in time and ease on labor. $3k-$5K range, you would be able to go 350hp+
I am ignoring a flavor of the sound 1JZ makes.

I guess that 1.5J swap would be a reasonable plan for less in expense. It could be a choice to have a better in time efficiency than complete 1JZ swap, this is what I personally think and realized after all work. blah blah blah...please excuse for my broken language.

I don't see how you only got 225hp out of a hybrid 1.5JZ motor. That has to be sporting some mega-tired huffers or something. BPU 1JZ's will make over 300rwhp easily on stockers....

Interesting stuff.

[kaukau]

@ stock boost, my hybrid made 217kw. well, I got 135k on 2JZGE. Thats the result I got, no joking. I was expecting to have 250kw range, though... maybe there is something wrong on a setting I have... :ugh2: Even I already start thinking toss this hybrid to someone local... I want to have some numbers from someone has done 1.5J...I heard that a person on the forum will have a hyper-hybrid next year, cant wait to hear what number will come out his vehicle. I guess that he will do a single + 1.5J maybe with a little bore up like a 3.1L motor... not like my kinda budget mod...

[Lexurious COupe]

@ stock boost, my hybrid made 217kw. well, I got 135k on 2JZGE. Thats the result I got, no joking. I was expecting to have 250kw range, though... maybe there is something wrong on a setting I have... :ugh2: Even I already start thinking toss this hybrid to someone local... I want to have some numbers from someone has done 1.5J...I heard that a person on the forum will have a hyper-hybrid next year, cant wait to hear what number will come out his vehicle. I guess that he will do a single + 1.5J maybe with a little bore up like a 3.1L motor... not like my kinda budget mod...

Well, assuming that the conversion I found (see below) is right, 217kw translates to 291 hp, which is something like 270kw (360-365hp) at the crank! That seems pretty damn good to me (from 135 kw or 181hp)! 250kw would be and amazing 335hp.

1kw = 1.341hp and 1hp = .7457kw.

[Bean]

The way I approached to have an 1.5J was actually not correct, I think now. Because I wanted to keep my 2JZGE motor on my car, just lazy extending wires and cables plus getting unknown 1JZ on my car. So I went to lazy 1.5J swap way, however I realized that 1.5J swap could be the last choice to have the most horse power out of 1JZ motor which has a single turbo tune or lots of mod been done. I guess I took it a wrong way that they (au, jp) utilized 2JZ bottom to tune up 1JZ motor, not use 1JZ to tune up 2JZ motor. Because even I did it, 2JZGE+1JZhead swap stock, it produced 217kw max @ 6-8psi with hasstle on wiring, change in lay-out, and time consuming.
Almost got same benchmarking for 1JZ swap. Hopely I can get some $$ out of selling 1JZ bottom or other parts came with a front clip.
Money wise, this could be a cheapest way in order to have a horse power gain on SC300/400.
1JZ single +2JZGTE/GE mostly makes 600hp around are found and those are depending on a set up.
$2,000 for motor + time efficiency = stock 225hp + 70hp gain max.
DIY, labor not included. If you need a labor, it will cost you more.
If I want to go further than that, simply I should have gone NA-t way directly, because its going to be cheaper, less in time and ease on labor. $3k-$5K range, you would be able to go 350hp+
I am ignoring a flavor of the sound 1JZ makes.

I guess that 1.5J swap would be a reasonable plan for less in expense. It could be a choice to have a better in time efficiency than complete 1JZ swap, this is what I personally think and realized after all work. blah blah blah...please excuse for my broken language.

So you're unhappy because you ran LESS THAN STOCK BOOST LEVELS and made as much horsepower as a 1jz does stock?

Something's wrong here. Starting with you spending $2000 on a motor. I guess you didnt really understand it all correctly.

A 1.5JZ swap is nothing but a 1jz swap using the 2jz block instead... You STILL run higher levels of boost (15psi is roundabout the limit for the stockers) and you still need to run a FMIC and downpipe and the whole shebang...

350whp is doable on the 1jz with stock turbos... on stock boost it makes around 280hp... stock boost is like 10psi right? and you ran 6-8psi; not even in the efficiency range of the stock turbos, and you're calling it a failure.

Like I said, something's wrong here.

EDIT: Just read that 217kw DOES EQUAL 291hp... So you made almost 300whp at less than stock boost, and you're UNHAPPY?!?
Even if the 217kw was at the engine, thats still more than stock 1jzs make and you were running LESS THAN STOCK BOOST

[Lexurious COupe]

EDIT: Just read that 217kw DOES EQUAL 291hp... So you made almost 300whp at less than stock boost, and you're UNHAPPY?!?
Even if the 217kw was at the engine, thats still more than stock 1jzs make and you were running LESS THAN STOCK BOOST

Yea, that's the same thing that I wasn't understanding... 291hp/217kw seems fairly phenomenal to me.
Regardless of kaukau's feelings about the project (and no offense there man! :) ), it's nice to know that the extra 500cc's adds that much power. :D

Bean - I think he means he spent $2000 on the front clip, not just the motor (I hope).

[kaukau]

well...I am lazy and always try to find the easiest way to have more horsepower gain out of stock engine. I had a skyline GTS-t a long time ago. Car came with 250hp initially. I bought a HKS-V pro boost controller installed on it then went 317hp, I barely remember...I knew that 317hp was max boost for stock turbo setting. It was pretty good investment, considered not expense. I paid only for the cost of boost controller. $800/50hp+=$16perHP. The boocon gave me an instant additional +50hp easily, no knowledge for electrical, no experience needed for an installation although it needed to be set by professionally for the setting. Then, I was pretty much happy with it. I dare to aim for 600hp+ range. I am a daily driver. I am not that young anymore. I have a politically responsibile job for myself, too. Under this very personal idea, I paid so much for buying a front clip $2400 shipping included + misc $400 (1JZ (got 62k miles) is beaten up more than my 135k 2JZGE motor), much labor on electrical. I am not complaining or whinnying but we maybe be able to have excellent condition of whole 2JZGE complete motor set around $500 instead? vs. pre-matured 1JZGTE $2,000. A bigger size of engine 99% gives you more torque and faster acceleration from 60mph. (my personal opinion) like stock 2JZGE AT vs. 1UZ AT. In addition, I love NAs. Test drove new 3.5L vehicles IS350, Z350, SLK350 recently. 1JZGE makes 134kw/6000rpm vs. 2JZGE 172kW at 6000rpm both has 10:1CR. 2.5L vs 3.0L. I love to have TQ more than HP actually. I do not want to talk about those numbers. Numbers come when those are new. I have a used car. It will not make 217kw. Used 1JZGTE does not make 280hp, if you dare to try. I do DIY but I am not into a car mechanism, at all. I rather spending time on rolling my tires on the ground. 1.5J swap is reasonable in cost performance, yes. Bad thing for 2JZ NA is not much aftermarket parts for gaining HP and TQ available. There are choice of add or swap to have HP and TQ gain on NA soarer.

No offense but I think that numbers are just numbers. No point talking about logics. If I stuck somewhere in numbers, I will ask bean directly. He is like a dictionary and supportive. I wait for a voice from the people who have done a similar swap I had. It makes more sense to me. Experience beats knowledge. I wrote some impression of mine after I have done a swap. I am on the side of people who do not have any sponsor or support from auto shop. Those of most people I see on the forum come with insane numbers are having some sorts of technical/ funding support somewhere or wealthy enough to spend $G on their vehicle. I write it up, because maybe there are someone lazy like me who want to have an instant HP or TQ gain and hope less in his or her tight budget without much enthusiasm in mechanical. Sorry my broken anglais again... :blah:
(thinking save some $$ on downpayment buying another car or going NA-t)

[Lexurious COupe]

well...I am lazy and always try to find the easiest way to have more horsepower gain out of stock engine. I had a skyline GTS-t a long time ago. Car came with 250hp initially. I bought a HKS-V pro boost controller installed on it then went 317hp, I barely remember...I knew that 317hp was max boost for stock turbo setting. It was pretty good investment, considered not expense. I paid only for the cost of boost controller. $800/50hp+=$16perHP. The boocon gave me an instant additional +50hp easily, no knowledge for electrical, no experience needed for an installation although it needed to be set by professionally for the setting. Then, I was pretty much happy with it. I dare to aim for 600hp+ range. I am a daily driver. I am not that young anymore. I have a politically responsibile job for myself, too. Under this very personal idea, I paid so much for buying a front clip $2400 shipping included + misc $400 (1JZ (got 62k miles) is beaten up more than my 135k 2JZGE motor), much labor on electrical. I am not complaining or whinnying but we maybe be able to have excellent condition of whole 2JZGE complete motor set around $500 instead? vs. pre-matured 1JZGTE $2,000. A bigger size of engine 99% gives you more torque and faster acceleration from 60mph. (my personal opinion) like stock 2JZGE AT vs. 1UZ AT. In addition, I love NAs. Test drove new 3.5L vehicles IS350, Z350, SLK350 recently. 1JZGE makes 134kw/6000rpm vs. 2JZGE 172kW at 6000rpm both has 10:1CR. 2.5L vs 3.0L. I love to have TQ more than HP actually. I do not want to talk about those numbers. Numbers come when those are new. I have a used car. It will not make 217kw. Used 1JZGTE does not make 280hp, if you dare to try. I do DIY but I am not into a car mechanism, at all. I rather spending time on rolling my tires on the ground. 1.5J swap is reasonable in cost performance, yes. Bad thing for 2JZ NA is not much aftermarket parts for gaining HP and TQ available. There are choice of add or swap to have HP and TQ gain on NA soarer.

No offense but I think that numbers are just numbers. No point talking about logics. If I stuck somewhere in numbers, I will ask bean directly. He is like a dictionary and supportive. I wait for a voice from the people who have done a similar swap I had. It makes more sense to me. Experience beats knowledge. I wrote some impression of mine after I have done a swap. I am on the side of people who do not have any sponsor or support from auto shop. Those of most people I see on the forum come with insane numbers are having some sorts of technical/ funding support somewhere or wealthy enough to spend $G on their vehicle. I write it up, because maybe there are someone lazy like me who want to have an instant HP or TQ gain and hope less in his or her tight budget without much enthusiasm in mechanical. Sorry my broken anglais again... :blah:
(thinking save some $$ on downpayment buying another car or going NA-t)

Well, to each his own, as "they" say. :)

I'm there with you on the lack of funding, and I know a lot of other people are too, so you're not alone. And dont' worry about your english, I read it just fine! :thumbup:

[J-Brooks]

Question... if this has been answered numberous times I apologize, but I was unable to find out.

I understand if you use the stock sc300 tranny (manual) with the stock 2jzge block you can use a n/a supra clutch correct?

Unfortunately from what I have read those trannies give out usually around 375-400whp correct?

That being the case the plan was use the 1jzgte Soarer tranny, since it holds more, but the question is what clutch and flywheel do you run when using that tranny with the 2JZGE block?

[Lexurious COupe]

Question... if this has been answered numberous times I apologize, but I was unable to find out.

I understand if you use the stock sc300 tranny (manual) with the stock 2jzge block you can use a n/a supra clutch correct?

Unfortunately from what I have read those trannies give out usually around 375-400whp correct?

That being the case the plan was use the 1jzgte Soarer tranny, since it holds more, but the question is what clutch and flywheel do you run when using that tranny with the 2JZGE block?
That HP number is theory. I met a guy running 490rwhp on the stock 5 speed... but he could hav ebeen bullshitting me, so I don't know.

Couldn't tell you about the clutch, though...

[Arizona]

Give me a few more months and my 1.5 will done.

[Dramon]

Guys, you're making it out to be more complicated than it really is :hay:

Its nothing but the 1jz head going onto the 2jz-GE block
Ask yourself, does any of the wiring harness plug into the block? NO!
Confirm for yourself, all the engine harness plugs into the head right? YES!

To answer the above questions:
1) Yes, if you did a little research you would have found the answer a long time ago. 1jz-gte and 2jz-gte headgaskets are interchangeable; (ie. same thickness, same bolt pattern, same water passages)

2) Did you do any research on NA-T setups at all? The spot is there on the block, its just not drilled out; and no the bolt-holes on the sides of it where the flange would go are NOT tapped. If you did a little more research, you would have not needed to ask this question.

3) If the turbos use vacuum? I'm not understanding that question. The 1jz ECU will not plug into the harness for one thing... and even if it did; it is looking for a MAP sensor, individual coil packs for the ignition, and a slew of other things that are not on the 2jz-ge. Again, if you did a little research, you would know.

4) Why on earth would you want to switch the distributor? The 1jz has individual coil-on-plug ignition; this is contained in the HEAD; its not on the block.

5) You can do it for under $2500 if you're smart... but you need to RESEARCH MORE. It sounds like you read the idea in a magazine somewhere and the first thing you did was post here. $2500 or a 3rd gen? hmmm.... the RX-7 is around $8000, thats a big difference in price I think? Besides, the 1.5jz SC300 would be faster and still more reliable than the RX-7


GUYS!!! Its not that difficult! :D You are doing a 1jz swap into the SC300!!!! The ONLY difference is you're using a 2jz-ge block instead of the 1jz-gte block... you only need to make the provisions for it to work (oil lines drilled, different head gasket, timing belt). ITS VERY VERY SIMPLE.

And stop asking if its been done before :) Its been done MANY times; especially in Australia.

Good luck finding a 3rd gen in decent running cond thats not going to need at least a few thousand worth of work for 8k. That's all I have to say.

[eblick99]

pics please?

[Prshrzd]

Any updates from anyone doing this swap i just started reading this thread and caught my eye would love to do this swap on my SC but would single it seeing a i have a spare gt42r from my talon race car please if anyone has any updates at all thanks, Curt

[rising_sun]

From my experience this build isn't reasonable with the stock twins. IF you're look to go big single and want the extra displacement to quicken the spool then you'll be ok. My motor spooled the stock twins INSTANTLY but after "toasting" 2 sets its time to move on. Good luck to all who are considering this build.

[SupraQuinn]

why wont you just keep everything you have done so far? i mean you have already gone that path, so why not continue on it? I mean you should just max out the turbo and see what #s you can get and then you might be a lil more happy. I just dont understand why you simple quit your project

[Prshrzd]

From my experience this build isn't reasonable with the stock twins. IF you're look to go big single and want the extra displacement to quicken the spool then you'll be ok. My motor spooled the stock twins INSTANTLY but after "toasting" 2 sets its time to move on. Good luck to all who are considering this build.


How did you toast two sets of stock twins that makes not sense at all did you turn the boost up past their max efficiency and toasted the bearings or what? just makes no sense at all

[rising_sun]

I drive my car everyday making 14lbs of boost on the stock turbos. Maybe I'm too picky, because after a few good pulls the turbos blow smoke signals and makes the patented squeal of pain, the bearings are definately dying. As I stated earlier IMO... If you have to dissassmble ur motor for the 1.5JZ swap, you might as well go single and save urself more work down the line.

[dejacky]

Aren't there numerous 1jz-gte based cars making ~450-500rwtq on single turbo'd stock 1jz-gte engines? I remember this 500hp 1jzgte club, but the website is currently down :sad: ...

[Lexurious COupe]

I've seen a couple... but what is this website you speak of? Sounds interesting...

[RacerXJ220]

Great info all over. I'm doing a 1.5JZ-GE-TT swap in my 87 Supra at the moment.

SARD K-26 twin kit
Stinger EMS
800cc injectors
272/264 cams (Crower custom grinds, staggered, 10mm lift)
Twin Walbros

Good thread :)

And yes 1JZ head/2JZ-GE bottom end.

My first post!

[SC3002JZ-T]

I was wondering if he project was ever completed? Also can anyone explain how to modify the stock ge harness t make it a 1jz harness is there a link or tutorial to this anywhere? Thanks in advance

[Lexurious COupe]

I believe you use the 1JZ harness and ECU...

[rising_sun]

I believe you use the 1JZ harness and ECU...

Correct! Use the 2JZ-GTE block or GE block with the GTE oil pump and your done.

[SC3002JZ-T]

Yes I know that works but in the original post he talked about modifying the original ge harness and adding wires to work with the 1jz. I was curious how hard this was and if it was cheaper than buying a complete 1jz harness

[Lexurious COupe]

Yes I know that works but in the original post he talked about modifying the original ge harness and adding wires to work with the 1jz. I was curious how hard this was and if it was cheaper than buying a complete 1jz harness
Ah..... I haven't read the pos tin a while.

I'd assume the cost is about the same since in both applications you're using the 1JZ head, which usually comes with a complete swap, including the harness and ECU. Otherwise, I dunno!!!

[Turbo819]

I have a few questions.
1. If you have a SC300 and want to install a 1jz head to get a 1.5 and want to use the SC300 engine harness. All you have to do is wire in the plugs from the 1jz to the SC300 harness?

[Lexurious COupe]

I dont' get why people want to use the GE harness and ECU... the 1JZ harness and ECU seem sooo much easier, am I missing something?

[soarerflame]

Make sure you purchase a 2JZGTE upper front water neck and a water pump to. Ran into that little problem during a 1.5 build up.

[UT_Supra]

If this was to be done to an NA MKIV Supra, everything would be the same as the SC right?

[Turbo-Joe]

Next year I think I'm gonna build a 1.5JZ.

I love my 1J and I have no doubt it can make the power I want it to, but I'd like to make more power on pump gas since this is my daily driver and that's where I do 99% of my driving... On pump gas.

[UT_Supra]

What kind of numbers can you expect with a 1.5jz on stock twins with the usual mods?

[Lexurious COupe]

...from the 2nd page of this thread:


@ stock boost, my hybrid made 217kw. well, I got 135k on 2JZGE. Thats the result I got, no joking. I was expecting to have 250kw range, though... maybe there is something wrong on a setting I have... :ugh2: Even I already start thinking toss this hybrid to someone local... I want to have some numbers from someone has done 1.5J...I heard that a person on the forum will have a hyper-hybrid next year, cant wait to hear what number will come out his vehicle. I guess that he will do a single + 1.5J maybe with a little bore up like a 3.1L motor... not like my kinda budget mod...

Well, assuming that the conversion I found (see below) is right, 217kw translates to 291 hp, which is something like 270kw (360-365hp) at the crank! That seems pretty damn good to me (from 135 kw or 181hp)! 250kw would be an amazing 335hp.

1kw = 1.341hp and 1hp = .7457kw.

Also, why would you want a 1JZ in your Supra? I know 2JZ-GTE's are more expensive, but it would swap in really easily.

[98$c300vvti]

i trying to do this in a 98 sc300 vvti auto.and i wanna use my auto tranny.and help & tips?