Going NA-T pretty soon, some questions

[Abear]

Hi, I plan on going NA-T pretty soon here. I have a kit pieced together...but without fuel management. I want to see what you guys think i should do, i have been searching this forum and found alot of information.
Heres what i have pieced together
Street Dynamics Level 2 kit
RC engineering 440cc injectors
Walbro pump
Ebay wastegate, intercooler, and BOV
greddy profec B boost controller

The car is a 1996 Lexus GS300, btw.
I was wondering what i should do to manage the fuel, from what ive read i am probably gonna go with the Apex-i SAFCII
my question really is, do you think i should get the LS400 AFM, or should i just leave it stock? im only planning on boosting 8 pounds.
Im not even sure if the injectors are big enough, or what else i need, any insight would be grealtly appreciated

[Brown Duckz]

Your 330cc injectors should be good for roughly 300rwhp..

[Abear]

thanks, im looking for roughly 325-350 rwhp, this is a daily driver, hopefully with 8-10 pounds and stock HG i can push 325-350 safely.

[dejacky]

Since your OBDII and 1996, perhaps getting a standalone is the way to go.

[btm7687]

You could do the OBDII-->OBDI conversion and then run the V8 MAF...however, standalone would be a good option.

Bryan M.

[Jaxsc3]

coming from another obd2 na-t although i have alot more mods and alot higer power goals when i was at that stage i wish i had a stand alone. good options are greddy emanage ultimate, my personal favorite being aem ems. but with your power goals you may be able to get away with only an safc although a speed density conversion would be nice. obviously the stand alone is a much more expensive way, but in my opinion completely worth it.

[Dramon]

Another advantage of standalones...while it can also be a huge PITA (depends if there are writeups and yuour level of proficiency) the fact that you have to wire up your own harness can also be an advantage.

It gives you the oppurtunity to route the wires however you want, and get rid of a lot of misc things and change certain things while you have everything torn apart.

[Bean]

Your 330cc injectors should be good for roughly 300rwhp..

On stock compression its more like 360-375 actually... i've seen several setups go beyond 400whp with no problems

But to the original poster, if you're going to run 440s and the LS400 AFM, you still need a little fuel management... a SAFC would be great...
and look into getting a wideband O2 sensor if you have the cash left over. And get it dynotuned :)
Of course you won't be going near 400whp with the SD kit on stock compression. The manifold is too restrictive.

At 8psi you'll be around 325-330whp and be plenty safe on stock fuel.

[Abear]

Thank you Bean, that was the perfect answer to my question, I am planning on getting a wideband, and also plan on getting it dyno tuned. Of course I'm down here in Houston, Texas, and we are supposedly gonna be out of commission for a while with this hurricane.
Hopefully after the hurricane things won't be too bad, that way gas and insurance and all that doesn't sky rocket.

[Bean]

Thank you Bean, that was the perfect answer to my question, I am planning on getting a wideband, and also plan on getting it dyno tuned. Of course I'm down here in Houston, Texas, and we are supposedly gonna be out of commission for a while with this hurricane.
Hopefully after the hurricane things won't be too bad, that way gas and insurance and all that doesn't sky rocket.


Well I'm telling you now as a friend and a fellow person that has had to deal with bad storms. Get out if it looks like the eastern side is going to hit you. As a Cat 5 this storm will have tremendous flooding. New Orleans hardly got any flooding; they just had their levee system break. Towns near the water in Mississippi were under 30-40ft of water on the coast and it wasnt slowly rising water like new orleans was... it was very very strong, tall waves that destroyed everything down to the very foundation.

I hope it doesnt hit you, but where else is it to go? Someone is going to have to deal with it. Houston is near the coast I believe, you guys are going to be out of comission for a while.

[Abear]

Plans have changed, my budget has increased slightly. I am now gonna get the PHR Manifold. Im still gonna stick with a PT61 and the 440's though. I gonna stay on stock compression until further notice, so low boost. I am going to get the MAP-ECU, but I have a question. I realize its a great product, but it doesnt control ignition timing. What should I do to control timing, I would rather not have to get a complete Standalone. Do you think I will be able to hit around 350whp at only 8psi with this setup? I have been reading up, and really only found that a standalone is the answer, but like I said, Id rather not have to go that route. Any suggestions would be great.

[Abear]

Anyone?

[Idrewfelix]

You can clock the distributor to modify the timing, but usually you wont need to mess with the timing unless boosting over 6-7 psi on stock compression.

And since your budget increased, why not just get a headgasket and do gasket swap?

[Abear]

I dont want to do the HG because I want alot of torque, plus 325-350whp is acheivable at 8psi, and with that and lots of torque, the car will be pretty fast. I dont know, theres that standalone Megasquirt, but I dont know about that.

[Kean]

We make around 300-320RWHP at 6psi on our Stage I kit.

Lowering the compression does not lower your torque. You can easily make up to 440RWHP and 400ft/lb of torque on our kit at 14.7psi of boost with the 2.5mm headgasket. We just did a NA-T setup 2 weeks ago that put these numbers down that was tuned with the MAP ECU.

[Bean]

Greddy Emanage can modify the ignition timing... its a bit harder to install than the MAP ECU though.

[Abear]

If I were to do a gasket swap and up the boost to around 14-15 psi, would I even have to worry about timing. If I dont have to worry about timing, maybe it is worth getting a new headgasket. One problem though, I think I read somewhere on SF that the ECU tends to fight more when boosting more than about 8 psi, I am OBD2 which is why I'm concerned.
Thanks for all your help and advice guys.

[Bean]

If I were to do a gasket swap and up the boost to around 14-15 psi, would I even have to worry about timing. If I dont have to worry about timing, maybe it is worth getting a new headgasket. One problem though, I think I read somewhere on SF that the ECU tends to fight more when boosting more than about 8 psi, I am OBD2 which is why I'm concerned.
Thanks for all your help and advice guys.

The ECU doesnt know the difference... it only knows airflow; and it has the maps for the entire voltage range of the MAF (0v to 5v). A certain boost level isnt going to do it.

Now on OBD2, it might be a different story... the ECU takes a lot more input from different sensors (more O2 sensors for instance).

If you swap the gasket though, you wont need to worry about the timing at that boost level (provided you go with something that provides < 9:1, --> 8.5:1 being preferrable)

[USMCSupra]

If I were to do a gasket swap and up the boost to around 14-15 psi, would I even have to worry about timing. If I dont have to worry about timing, maybe it is worth getting a new headgasket. One problem though, I think I read somewhere on SF that the ECU tends to fight more when boosting more than about 8 psi, I am OBD2 which is why I'm concerned.
Thanks for all your help and advice guys.
Since you're OBDII make sure you get at least a wideband and/or a fuel conditioner . The ECU will relearn overtime and try to fight the piggyback. You could swap to OBDI and save yourself some headaches.

-Joe

[dejacky]

Since you're OBDII make sure you get at least a wideband and/or a fuel conditioner . The ECU will relearn overtime and try to fight the piggyback. You could swap to OBDI and save yourself some headaches.

-Joe If you have a obd II NA 2JZ-GE car, the map-ecu works much better since you have hundreds of digits more precision per fuel cell compared to a obd I karmen vortex car.