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View Full Version : 2GS 2jzge-t build thread

ElitistK
02-02-2008, 08:44 PM
About time that i posted pics...:ohnoes:

Before we start, make sure you know what is your goal. It's hard to build your foundations if you don't know how high of a building you want to create. Delicate hand and a factory service manual is a must. There's a 95 supra one on this site, and a '05 is300 one on my.is. They both should cover sc's and gs's in terms of drivetrain.

In my case, I decided to do an engine tune-up, including 1.3mm headgasket, new seals, gaskets, timing belt, etc. Mark's 1.3mm HG kit is really good, comes with every seal, gasket, and a cometic-like 1.3mm 3 layer headgasket. These headgaskets COULD be re-used after slight use, but Mark highly does not recommend it. Be prepared to spend a day to remove everything, and another day to clean the surface and reassembly.

Drain your coolant. There's a drain plug on the block underneath the exhaust manifold. Use a 14mm wrench to open it. It is important for you to drain all the coolant inside the block if you're going to open it.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2902.jpg

Intake removed
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2925.jpg

Exhaust being removed
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2927.jpg

There's 2 coolant lines, 4 electric plugs, 3 big vacuum lines, and 2 small vacuum lines (1/8"), 1 throttle cable, plunged into your TB/Y-pipe assembly. I don't have detailed pics but the factory service manual should be more than enough. The 2 small vacuum lines are harder to find because they're underneath the Y-pipe.

Remove Fuel Pressure Dampener
Stock 2jzge w/ vvti does not have an fuel return line. The FPR is in-tank, and the pressure is regulated through a pressure signal. The dampener acts as a buffer to make fuel flow even smoother when it gets to the fuel rail. You must remove this in order to remove the fuel rail and then the lower runners. Be careful because there's a metal gasket right underneath the black ring feed line.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2918.jpg

Intake manifold removed
*note: There are 3 bolts hidden under the lower runners bolted to the head. They are very hard to find...so use your hands and feel them up.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2915.jpg

Coil-on-plug/distributor hybrid ignition. 3 Main units, 3 distributor wires, 6 firing plugs total. Why is it so weird? You'll see later. Honestly it's ingenious.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2898.jpg

Valvecover and Camshafts removed.
*note: ply the first cam bearing (vvti unit) towards you, not away from you. You'll crack the 2 small allen wrench holes if you ply away from you.
*camshaft bearings must be removed in a special sequence and be re-used in the same order! There are very tiny letters laser-etched on the metal surface, they go in specific order, check with your FSM.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2908.jpg

Oh Hi I have your internalz
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2907.jpg

Head removed
*There are 14 headbolts holding the head to the engine, and every one of them must be removed in a special sequence, otherwise you will wrap your head.
*Now you see how the coil-on-plug/distributor hybrid is created. The 2jz runs in pairs, 1-6 2-5 and then 3-4. Main units are seated on 2-4-6 cylinders, while unit 2 runs a wire to 5, unit 4 runs a wire to 3, and unit 6 runs a wire to 1.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2909.jpg

Piston 1 at crankshaft pulley TDC
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2911.jpg

Piston 1 true TDC
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2912.jpg

I got some NGK BKR6ES from my local pepboys (they didn't have the 8E so i went with a hotter plug). Next time around i'll over the BKR8ES (6 series).
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2914.jpg

To clean the aluminum head surface, use your favorite credit card that you have banned from your financial life. To clean the iron block surface...you can use pretty much anything you want (except things that are more abrasive than iron, duh). Reassembly is in reverse order. Don't forget to double check everything before you fire it up :)
ElitistK
02-02-2008, 09:14 PM
Now the turbo install...

The kit..
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2470.jpg

T61 T4 Turbocharger
Turbine: .84 AR, 3" v-band outlet.
Compressor: .70 AR, 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet.
40mm wastegate
27x7x3 Intercooler
TiAl-style 50mm BOV
2.5" piping
3" Downpipe
AEM UEGO wideband sensor
AEM F/IC piggyback
1.3MM HG
550cc SARD injectors (not installed until later)

Test dry-fit everything. It's almost like Lego's, and you can see the clearance in between everything so when it goes into your car, you'll know what you really need.

Drain your engine oil. You won't be reusing this oil so it's best to get new oil and a new filter while you're at it.

Here's the oil feed tap. Do not eliminate this sensor.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2932.jpg

This..
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2945.jpg
Will go into where the sensor is.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2941.jpg
The reason why I did it is because the wiring isn't long enough to reach all the way out there. If you put the first fitting onto the second fitting, it will be long enough to reach the sensor as long as it's at 9-12'o clock position.

Here's the complete picture.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2944.jpg

Oil return plate
*Make your return hole at least 1/2". I highly recommend 5/8" though. Use a step drill-bit with a lot of multi-purpose grease (you want to lubricate and cool the hole so you don't grab onto the soft aluminum pan). Also picks up the shavings so not a big amount goes inside your upper pan (which can be catastrophic).
*Don't be lazy and do a drill AND THEN tap procedure for the 2 M8 holes. The bit that I used drills and taps and it seems to fucked up the upper hole.
*Remove the thermostat unit to drill the upper hole. I doubt you have a drill that is small enough to fit in there AND also be powerful enough to drill on it. Some coolant will come out so be prepared.
*Use your favorite high temperature sealant as gasket. Be generous but make sure the sealant doesn't get into the oil pan!
*Flush out the metal shavings with your drain line, attached to the drain plate, and your used oil. Just don't forget to have a bucket to catch it. You WILL see shavings coming out, the more the merrier.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2946.jpg

I highly recommend upgrading your feed and drain lines. -4AN for feed and -8AN for drain

Feed list (don't need NPT to -AN adapter)
555-100050 #4 STR HOSE END PUSH LOC
555-102200 #4 PUSH LOC HOSE 5' BLUE (or whatever length you need)

Drain list
555-100129 1/2"NPT TO #8 FLARE 45 degree bend
555-100107 3/8"NPT TO #8 FLARE
555-100052 #8 STR HOSE END PUSH LOC
555-102220 #8 PUSH LOC HOSE 5' BLUE (or whatever length you need)*
*People usually run -6AN for their fuel system, but if you decide you want to flow more, then you can go up to -8AN and buy like 20 ft. of this stuff.

Intercooler install:
If you have the 27x7 small and cute intercooler (that flows a lot of air), you're going to have to drill your own hole and customize mounting brackets. Home Depot is the answer.

Mount the brackets onto the intercooler, and then mount the entire assembly...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2697.jpg

Onto this...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2696.jpg

Complete picture
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2699.jpg

Turbo install:
This has been covered so many times, i'm just going to go over a few highlights.
-Make sure you rotate the turbo housing (by loosing the 4 bolts behind the turbine) to get to the 4th inner most nut that is impossible to get with a rachet. It's ok to not put that much torque onto the nut because the weight distribution makes the turbo want to lean out, not lean in.
-Careful not to get teflon tape into the oil system. Again, upgrading your drain lines to -AN fittings will solve a lot of these oil weeps and leak headaches (besides, it looks nice with the blue and the red and the light blue and the easiness of install/uninstall).
-If you have a better oil gasket, use it.
-Take off the compressor for easier installation and also drill a 21/64" hole and tap 1/8" NPT fitting onto the housing. You will need to run a positive pressure sensor to the fitting on the wastegate, otherwise your wastegate will never open.
-Make sure you put the giant o-ring on the compressor first, and then you put the housing over.
-Dry fit your downpipe to see if the v-band will fit over the turbine and the downpipe. If you're downpipe is way too thick, call Mark right now and he'll work something out.
-Use tabs of sealant around the flange for the TiAl 50mm o-ring. You'll see why.

I had the most problem with intercooler piping during my install, so here is mine:
I really like the TiAl style BOV. Besides, it sounds nice.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2992.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2988.jpg

Get a 2.5" hole saw to cut the plastic, lol.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2986.jpg

2.5" Piping is so much easier because it can fit between your chassis and headlight. Besides the turbo outlet and the intercooler are both 2.5", so why 3?
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2985.jpg


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2984.jpg

I utilized the AEM intake pipe in this setup for MAF's sake. I did not alter the intake pipe so I end up using a 90 degree coupler so it goes straight to the intake pipe. The intake pipe is 3" so you'll need a 2.5 to 3 adapter (TB opening is about 3" as well).
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2991.jpg

This was my source for erratic idle. DO NOT CONNECT THAT VACUUM TO THAT HOLE! again, PLUG THAT HOLE UP WITH A PLUG AND ALUMINUM BAND!!!!!!!111ONE
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2995.jpg

I still can't fit my bumper over my car, but that will change very soon :thefinger:

Exhaust being made, I couldn't take any more pictures because the owner was not comfortable with the camera around when they are doing a favor for me :wink:. Anyways, just have an exhaust shop to chop off your stock B pipe, and replace it with a 3" pipe to your cat. The cat opening is about 2.75".
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2993.jpg

One more before we go onto piggyback install..
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y281/k3n_chu/allison/IMG_2990.jpg
ElitistK
02-02-2008, 09:14 PM
-=Reserved for piggyback install=-
98mkiv
02-02-2008, 09:54 PM
Kenny, that install looks great, you did great work! Looks badass. What PSi are you going to boost to?
ElitistK
02-02-2008, 10:00 PM
Kenny, that install looks great, you did great work! Looks badass. What PSi are you going to boost to?\

Mark,

once again, thank you for everything. You made this possible in every single way. I'll stick around this place to help out your future customers.

Remember the new wastegate that you sent me (same one gunnar has)? the 40mm HKS style. What was the psi for that spring?
98mkiv
02-03-2008, 11:03 AM
Thanks Kenny, the bay looks badass. The spring is 10 PSI.
gsoup
02-04-2008, 11:46 AM
Hey Kenny it was cool to chat with you the other day. I'm also glad to see that you resolved the vacuum leak ;) Hows the idle now? Is the AFR looking correct?

Nice write up by the way.
ElitistK
02-05-2008, 11:34 AM
Hey Kenny it was cool to chat with you the other day. I'm also glad to see that you resolved the vacuum leak ;) Hows the idle now? Is the AFR looking correct?

Nice write up by the way.

hey carlos i just disputed my payment to my.is store and bought another patch harness from boomslang. DO NOT BUY FROM MY.IS STORE! IT HAS BEEN SHUT DOWN FOR AN INDEFINITE PERIOD OF TIME!

before my ecu goes into open loop, my idle is still kinda rough, AFR would consistently stay beyond 18 on idle. Once my ECU goes into open though, however, my idle would stay within 17.5-18 on idle, and around 16 when i keep a light throttle on it. Needless to say, my idle in open loop is a lot better than in closed loop.
gsoup
02-05-2008, 12:45 PM
thanks for the heads up on the my.is store.

Something doesn't sound right? Where is your vacuum at? Is it where it should be on idle in regards to what we talked about?
Give me a call when you get a chance tonight after 9pm my time if you want.
ElitistK
02-05-2008, 02:24 PM
thanks for the heads up on the my.is store.

Something doesn't sound right? Where is your vacuum at? Is it where it should be on idle in regards to what we talked about?
Give me a call when you get a chance tonight after 9pm my time if you want.

my vacuum is around 15.67 inHG. According to the IS FSM, it should be around 19inHG at 700 rpm at operating temperature. Since i have a thicker headgasket and a lower idle and measured right after engine start-up, I think i'm not that far off.

it is also impossible to achieve beyond 14.7 psi worth of vacuum....physically impossible.
gsoup
02-05-2008, 07:36 PM
my vacuum is around 15.67 inHG. According to the IS FSM, it should be around 19inHG at 700 rpm at operating temperature. Since i have a thicker headgasket and a lower idle and measured right after engine start-up, I think i'm not that far off.

it is also impossible to achieve beyond 14.7 psi worth of vacuum....physically impossible.

19inhg is where it should be around that ballpark. I still wonder though about your AFR. It may be due to your FT. When was the last time you reset the ecu?

You should try starting the car up with all of the O2's disconnected to see where your afr #s look like.

I think you misunderstood me. 14.7psia pertains to absolute pressure. Which is what the F/IC works on, it reads & display everything in absolute pressure.

14.7 - (whatever the FIC says) = vacuum
ElitistK
02-05-2008, 10:03 PM
19inhg is where it should be around that ballpark. I still wonder though about your AFR. It may be due to your FT. When was the last time you reset the ecu?

You should try starting the car up with all of the O2's disconnected to see where your afr #s look like.

I think you misunderstood me. 14.7psia pertains to absolute pressure. Which is what the F/IC works on, it reads & display everything in absolute pressure.

14.7 - (whatever the FIC says) = vacuum

all my o2 sensors are disconnected....and for some reason, now my car just idled richer and my AFR is no longer so lean (after 20 mins worth of driving). Isn't vacuum suppose to be a lot lower if i lower the compression.

AFR is around 15.1 on idle, and when i hit the throttle, it dips down to 17.5 and then goes back up to 16. Last time i reseted the ECU was about a day ago (but only 20 mins worth of driving).
gsoup
02-06-2008, 12:11 AM
Yeah but remember the AFR isn't going to be 100% accurate until it fully warms up. You still have stock injectors, 260cc? You have stock sparkplugs too correct? It's leaning out when you get on it is normal your forcing in so much air and not enough fuel if you have the stock injectors and no fuel controller.
ElitistK
02-06-2008, 12:12 PM
Yeah but remember the AFR isn't going to be 100% accurate until it fully warms up. You still have stock injectors, 260cc? You have stock sparkplugs too correct? It's leaning out when you get on it is normal your forcing in so much air and not enough fuel if you have the stock injectors and no fuel controller.

i have NGK coppers gapped properly, stock injectors, still no F/IC installed.

Right after i reset my ECU, car would drive like crap, and if i hit on the gas too hard, i woudl hear a pop sound (either detonation or misfire, can't be good).

after driving around/idling for 20 mins, the car sudden comes alive. Not only it idles smooth, but when I hit on the gas, the AFR actually goes richer as my RPM climbs. I stay within the rpm range before the vvti advancing though.

either way, I need a tune.
fiveonetwo
04-29-2008, 04:54 PM
Any updates? Any photos or videos?
ElitistK
04-29-2008, 09:31 PM
going to take some after coilover install