All about oil lines for NA-T -- threads merged

[chitwnsazn]

Has anyone tried taking out one of the nuts blocking off the hole on the side of the oil filter housing and then getting an adapter for the hole to screw in the supply line? I have a picture of the location since I can't describe it very well but the file is too big. Can anyone help me with that?

Thanks
Charles

[chitwnsazn]

thanks

http://www.elit3.com/upload.php?file=IMG_3588.JPG

[chitwnsazn]

and...

http://www.elit3.com/upload.php?file=IMG_3589.JPG

[chitwnsazn]

does anyone know what I'm talking about? :fruit:

[Ravan17]

wat for? i just replaced that big bolt with the one that came with the boostlogic kit

[Bean]

Has anyone tried taking out one of the nuts blocking off the hole on the side of the oil filter housing and then getting an adapter for the hole to screw in the supply line? I have a picture of the location since I can't describe it very well but the file is too big. Can anyone help me with that?

Thanks
Charles

I dont think anyone has tried that, no... but it is an intriguing idea for the DIY'er that doesnt want to drill and tap an oil feed.

[chitwnsazn]

wat for? i just replaced that big bolt with the one that came with the boostlogic kit
not everybody has the boostlogic and yeah you can go buy the lexus union bolt but I don't think my oil line would fit in that pre-tapped bolt so I would still need to drill and tap either way...oh well we'll see how it works out in a couple more days

[dejacky]

Finished drilling oil pan with the 7/8th hole saw. I was expecting to be able to pull that last plate layer out, but instead the entire drill just pushed through. Does this mean there is some circular piece of metal freely in my oil pan now? Is this a concern or did the same thing happened to most of you that just drilled the oil pan and not remove it? :happysad:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/DSC02081.jpg

[scnat]

If Its Not In The Holesaw, Then Its In The Pan.

[dejacky]

aeight stuck my middle finger really deep and felt something that i pushed forward..probably the plate. So the plate is still in the upper oil pan close to the drilled hole. Now all i need are some REALLY thin tweasers and a tiny lighted video camera that can fit inside the hole so i can see how to grab the metal. any ideas?

Can the lower and upper oil pans be slightly seperated so I can put some plastic between them and pour oil through the upper oil pan's drilled hole to force the metal out onto the plastic, thereby ejecting the metal piece?

[chitwnsazn]

since where talking bout drilling the oil pan, how do you know if you drilled too small of a hole for the return line. What would it do to the turbo?

[dejacky]

I didn't drill too small of a hole for the return line. I used a 7/8ths size hole saw and that is an appropriate large size for the oil return line. My problem is that last layer of circular metal got pushed inside the upper oil pan instead of being stuck within the holesaw as I removed the drill.

[Smokinsupra95]

since where talking bout drilling the oil pan, how do you know if you drilled too small of a hole for the return line. What would it do to the turbo?


yea i was wondering that too... i drilled the middle hole about the diameter of the return line. hope thats fine.

[btm7687]

Sooo...starting the install of my turbo kit...after removal of stock pieces will be drilling and tapping for the oil return line. My question is I have the DaveH kit...what size do I need to tap the holes for the bolts? Also...is 1/2 inch too small for the actual hole? Thanks...

Bryan M.

[Bean]

If the DaveH kit comes with an actual flange, I'd drill a 9/16" NPT-sized hole... not sure what that comes out to, but its a big hole :) There are conversion charts on the net... IIRC a 7/16" drill bit is about the size of a 1/4" NPT thread...

As far as the actual bolts go, I used self-tapping screws and it was fine. Find out what size the bolts you get to put on the flange and just tap it to that thread-size and pitch

EDIT:
dejacky used a 7/8" hole saw, that works too but it leaves a plate inside the oil pan that you have to get out.

[Bean]

That hole is perfectly fine :) As for the plate in the oil pan, I'm guessing you might need to drop the pan.

No worries tho, the hardest part is getting the pan OFF. You dont need to completely remove it (and therefore dont need to drop the crossmember)... just drop it down a bit so you can get your fingers under there and get the big piece out and any other little pieces. Then as we talked about earlier, flush the oil system with a lot of oil.

Since you jacked your oil-pan drain bolt, make sure you purchase a magnetic one to make sure by any small chance you didnt get all the shavings by flushing the thing.

[justins_supra]

What about for the boost logic kit?

[NinetyFiveNA]

I believe the two stock holes for the oil return are for a 6mm tap, and bolt.

Also whatever you do...DON'T BREAK THE TAP OFF IN THE HOLES. :thumbup:

[dejacky]

EDIT:
dejacky used a 7/8" hole saw, that works too but it leaves a plate inside the oil pan that you have to get out. You can still use the 7/8ths hole saw, but just remember to leave the inner drill bit protruding outwards enough to catch the final metal layer when it pops :)

[scnat]

hey, how about asking dave h himself or boostlogic, their both sponsors and have their own section here.

[Kirk]

You want to use a 7/8" hole saw for the main return hole and I forgot what size the other 2 are

[bobmarley]

Use a Unitbit.. there expensive but work great.. if anything it drilled through too quick.. did mine in like 10 minutes..

[btm7687]

I would ask DaveH, but he is gone...anyway...so you recommend using a hole saw rather than drill bit? Would I keep the metal shavings out the same as with the bit...every now and then back it out and and clean and lube it? It just seems like the hole saw would be a lot harder to prevent shavings to get in.

Bryan M.

[btm7687]

Use a Unitbit.. there expensive but work great.. if anything it drilled through too quick.. did mine in like 10 minutes..

What is a unitbit exactly? Does it help keep metal shavings out of the oil pan?

Bryan M.

[btm7687]

Ok...I found out what it was...which one would you recommend...like from what size to what size?

Bryan M.

[98mkiv]

those shavings are aluminum (non magnetic)

[Smokinsupra95]

those shavings are aluminum (non magnetic)

haha yea good call. magnet is for only tranny correct?

[justins_supra]

Frikin A,

Anyone in Southern California wanna do this for me?

[btm7687]

Frikin A,

Anyone in Southern California wanna do this for me?

You should do it yourself...I would rather do it myself and know I did the install myself...just be careful is pretty much all the advice anyone can give you...as long as you are, you should be fine.

Bryan M.

[DaveH]

6mm and unibit.

:)

[Bean]

those shavings are aluminum (non magnetic)

ah crap, good point, i completely forgot :roflwtf:

[btm7687]

Thanks Dave...but what size unibit should I get? From what size to what size?

Bryan M.

[justins_supra]

You should do it yourself...I would rather do it myself and know I did the install myself...just be careful is pretty much all the advice anyone can give you...as long as you are, you should be fine.

Bryan M.

Well I am installing the kit myself, I just hear all these horror storys of metal shavings all over the pan and killing the cyliders. I just think that someone thats done it before has a better idea how to keep most of the shavings out.

Anyone interested?

[DaveH]

Thanks Dave...but what size unibit should I get? From what size to what size?

Bryan M.

My unibit goes from 1/8" to 7/8".

DaveH

[DaveH]

Well I am installing the kit myself, I just hear all these horror storys of metal shavings all over the pan and killing the cyliders. I just think that someone thats done it before has a better idea how to keep most of the shavings out.

Anyone interested?

When I did it the very first time, I borrowed a regular 7/8" bit and just drilled it out. I left the oil drain plug out and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner down the hole to flush out all the filings. Then I put the drain plug in and added oil. I changed the oil again after a few miles. Never had any problems.

[justins_supra]

When I did it the very first time, I borrowed a regular 7/8" bit and just drilled it out. I left the oil drain plug out and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner down the hole to flush out all the filings. Then I put the drain plug in and added oil. I changed the oil again after a few miles. Never had any problems.


that sounds like a good idea, i'll have to try that if no one bites.
thanks Dave!

[btm7687]

So...I had a quick questions, what exactly is the setup for the oil feed line? I'm using the basic NA-T install instructions that were posted by SupraSonic on SF...anyway, he doesn't really have any good pictures of the oil feed line setup...just a blurry picture of where it connects, so I don't really know what the connection looks like, or how it exactly connects...I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or could take any pictures of their oil feed setup...all the way from the pan to the turbo. Also, do you have to drill anything or tap anything for the setup...and what is the easiest way to access that area? From the top or the bottom? I have my car jacked up quite a bit so going from the bottom shouldn't be a problem...all of my plastic panels are taken off. Any help would be really great...I plan on doing my oil return sometime this week, but the instructions advise doing the feed first. Anyway, so sorry for being so long, but I really need some help.

Bryan M.

[dejacky]

Got all the bolts off..finally. Now, the oil pan won't come off :) . I feel like leaving that holed washer in the oil pan...

[justins_supra]

I just did the feed, took me..... lets see about 1min. :)

locate the oil filter, to the left is a big bolt, remove it and screw in the new union bolt included in the kit. (remember to put the gasket on the bolt)(the funny looking circular ring) and tighten down.
Be advised that when removing the bolt the entire oil filter housing will come off. I just had my right hand hold the filter and the left swap out the bolts.

Screw in the fitting with gasket sealer and tighten down attach line and run across the top of the engine.

move on to the return line.

[btm7687]

Did you go in from the top or the bottom...also, I saw that bolt...what is the size of that thing? It looks HUGE.

Bryan M.

[SupaSupraSE]

Did you go in from the top or the bottom...also, I saw that bolt...what is the size of that thing? It looks HUGE.

Bryan M.

Not sure what you mean by top or bottom, but just follow the instructions given above, and drape the feed line all the way across your motor, then connect it into your turbo.

EDIT- BTW, that thing is huge. I didn't have a big enough size to even unbolt it, so I had to borrow tools from a friend... :weaksauce

[btm7687]

I mean like...did you access the oil filter and bolt area by going in from under the car or by doing it from the top through the engine bay?

Bryan M.

[scnat]

i used a regular 7/8 and just packed it with grease and cleaned it a couple of times and repeated the grease packing on the bit after each cleaning

[chitwnsazn]

I did this

http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203

works fine for me...no drilling or tapping, but you will have to find that adapter bolt.

[justins_supra]

seriosly, in my opinion, the union bolt was the way to go, literally took about 1min.
And I left everythihg hooked up. No tapping needed. Just unscrew bolt and screw in new union bolt and move on.

[Bean]

Got all the bolts off..finally. Now, the oil pan won't come off :) . I feel like leaving that holed washer in the oil pan...

It takes a lot of work to get it off. Use a putty knife and/or a razor blade to work one corner... once you get a corner, use a screwdriver to pry it down...

Dont forget to buy the Toyota-branded FIPG from the dealer so you can put it back on without it leaking :)

[Bean]

I'm combining all threads speaking of oil feed and return lines, drilling, different options, etc into this one thread. Please post here in the future :)

Gonna make this a sticky as well

[dejacky]

The Saga continues. I still can't pry this damn lower oil pan off :rant2:. I'm going to try again tomorrow when I have some more energy... Also, I won't be able to tap that lower hole because there is this hard black line blocking it. What is it and how can I safely disconnect it? :ohnoes: Thanks again for everyone's help, I'm always learning and appreciate all of your input so much :ylsuper: .

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPan1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/HardLine.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/Tappingholeblockage.jpg

[btm7687]

I have no idea what that hard black line is, but I just did my oil feed and return yesterday. To tap the lower hole, I just used one hand to hold down that black line...it moves a little, you just need to pull it down about an inch and it should be fine. Since I used my left hand to hold that black line down, I used my right and tapped it.

Bryan M.

[dejacky]

I have to thank GAMIMNON from Supraforums.com for recommending me a technique that helps access the oil pan to split the sealant and get more clearance when it's lowered...It worked and now it's time to go fishing for that pesky washer! :fingersx:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanlowered.jpg

UPDATE 1: well, I fished around the lower oil pan for the washer and didn't feel it anywhere...so it's somewhere above the baffle plate, most likely on the upper oil pan slant. :nervous:

UPDATE 2: Where there is a will, there is a way :fruit: .

I jacked up the engine via the upper oil pan near the front of the car on each side with two tire changing jacks since my transmission jack would not fit.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanJacks1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanJacks2.jpg
This gave me more clearance to lower the oil open lower as you can see.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPannobaffle.jpg
Then I noticed the edge of somethig circular that didn't appear normal. So, I used a coat hanger to pull it more into view and waddya know..the "bastid" was hiding! :die:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanWasher1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanWasherposthanger.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanWasherdimensions1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanWasherdimensions2.jpg

Now, all of you soon-to-be NA-T'ers can use this info to your advantage since you know the proper tools to use, proper method, and the appropriate distance to drill. :bigthumb:

[dejacky]

Here is another reminder to remove or lower the oil pan after drilling that oil return hole for cleansing. This is after a 1 full engine oil flush (6 quarts) and 4 quarts of oil through the oil return hole:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanDebree1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanDebree2.jpg

And "yes" I was extremely cautious while drilling.. I used vast amounts of white Lithium grease, while constantly cleaning the drill and re-greasing. METAL SHAVINGS STILL GET IN! :eek2:

[Dramon]

For the feed line a nice way without and drilling is to use an oil relocation kit and tap into one of those lines.

[4cefed *SCAMMER*]

Here is another reminder to remove or lower the oil pan after drilling that oil return hole for cleansing. This is after a 1 full engine oil flush (6 quarts) and 4 quarts of oil through the oil return hole:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanDebree1.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/OilPanDebree2.jpg

And "yes" I was extremely cautious while drilling.. I used vast amounts of white Lithium grease, while constantly cleaning the drill and re-greasing. METAL SHAVINGS STILL GET IN! :eek2:

hey i have solution to get all the saving out without dropping the pan,i had to drill into a buddies car for his turbo kit and after i was done drilling i took the gas line for a gas dryer(the long flexable metal hose)and duct taped to a vacumm cleaner hose, and it gave me plenty of suction and flexability to feed it into the oil pan and suck up all the shavings. my buddy did not really trust that idea, soo we dropped the pan anyway and there was absolutly no shavings

[dejacky]

4cefed,
I just used paper towels to first suck up all the oil. Then, I used lots of brake cleaner and paper towels to clean up the mess :happysad: .

[jbiel]

So I had some time today to devote to the NA-T project on my SC300, and I decided to tackle the oil drain setup.

I started out with the No.1 oil pan off the car.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16568-2/DSC_3149+_Large_.JPG

Next I drilled the pilot hole.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16574-2/DSC_3151+_Large_.JPG

I then proceeded to use a 3/4" bit to achive the proper drain back size.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16583-2/DSC_3154+_Large_.JPG

Completed drain hole.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16601-2/DSC_3160+_Large_.JPG

This is the exact reason why this should be done with the oil pan off the car.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16589-2/DSC_3156+_Large_.JPG

I decided to use some M6x1.00 Allen Head bolts.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16598-2/DSC_3159+_Large_.JPG

I then tapped out each hole carefully.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16613-1/DSC_3164+_Large_.JPG
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16616-2/DSC_3165+_Large_.JPG

90% finished product.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16625-1/DSC_3168+_Large_.JPG

Project completed, just needs a gasket.
http://www.biel-tech.com/gallery2/d/16634-2/DSC_3171+_Large_.JPG

[1sxyrxy]

but how much shaving's would have gone into the pan. i know not all of those shavings would have gone in. as for spraying carb cleaner in it. i dont see all the shavings getting out because the drain hole doesnt look low enough for them to all flush out of. you could always drill another hold at the bottom of the pan and flush the shavings that way and if you got a welder handy just tack the hole up and your set.

[lexluger180]

anybody have tips on using the unibit to tap for return? go slowly and pullout and go back slowly and repeat?

[MOTORSWAPSLEEPER]

jbiel,
i took off the oil pan from the motor, and it was WAY worth it, shavings were freakin everywhere. It took me 2 seconds with the pan off to drill and it was tapped and ready to go complete in 5 min if that. In my opinion, yes it was hard, but it was good for those of us who are paranoid about stuff like shavings...

[Dramon]

btw....that hard black line is the charcoal canister vent line

[Midnight]

Has anyone attempted to drill the block for the oil feed line? The "pad" is there for both front and rear oil feeds, just have to drill in so far and tap it, using lots and lots of grease. I know the IS300 union bolt is an easy method, but the idea of an oil line running over or around the block soaking up heat does not excite me, plus I'm going for a very very clean engine bay.

[dejacky]

For oil return hole on the new engine, I used the "holesaw + drill in the middle" oil return hole drilling technique, but this time only let the drill protrude out by a small amount. Using white lithium grease, it catches the washer very easily. So, this is how you do it without pushing the washer inside the oil pan :):

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/dejacky/NewOilReturn.jpg

[Archanox]

Can someone explain me exactly the things about the lexus union bolt?
Where will it be located, where to get?

how many people are using this method? for how many miles and what is your setup?
Sorry for all the questions :runaway:

[dejacky]

Can someone explain me exactly the things about the lexus union bolt?
Where will it be located, where to get?

how many people are using this method? for how many miles and what is your setup?
Sorry for all the questions :runaway: The oil filter screws into this metal piece that is screwed into the engine by the hexagonal shaped union bolt. All you need is a union bolt that has a fitting on top of it so it flows oil through that fitting. Attach a stainless steel oil feed line to that fitting, then attach that line to your turbo (that hopefully has an oil restrictor on the inlet or before).

[Archanox]

Thanks for the explaination, is this a union bolt?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d172/supra660/DSCF1200.jpg

[dejacky]

Yes,
that long bolt at the bottom of the picture is the union bolt.

[jinn_faz]

hello are there any online stores where I could buy the union bolt
I would prefer it if they were in the uk but not really bothered
:bowdown-0
Thanks

[~SC~]

This is so old.. The union bolt is located right below the oil filter. You can't miss such a big bolt. You have to get a pretty large socket, and a long extension to get to it. Go to Lexus and buy the $20.00 union bolt for the IS300. This bolt will look exactly the same as the one you removed from your vehicle, except, the IS300 bolt will have a factory tapped hole right at the center of the octagon. The oil will squirt right off of the bolt, and onto your turbo cooling it down. I think the harder part related to this question is getting the oil to return to the pan. Drilling's a bit of a PITA, as you have to worry about the metal shavings left inside. I know you can remove the oil pan, but many find this to be a lot of trouble. There is a a na-t kit that's been out not too long ago; I forgot what the name was, but they have the option of not having to drill the pan for the return line. I think I remember reading this thread in the supraforums. It has something to do with the rear of the engine, right where the firewall is. There's suppose to be an opening to do the return hose. I'm looking to go that route. Another option that I've heard about is removing the oil sensor on the back of the oil pan. There's suppose to be 2 sensors determining oil level, so without one there's still another. I heard some people have removed this oil sensor and used it as a oil return hose. I don't know what the pros and cons are though. Help out guys..

[garethr]

I didn't see this suggestion anywhere in the thread, and it's secondhand because my NA-T 3-litre Soarer is just a thought in my head....

I understand that you can't remove the lower pan without dropping the crossmember, so to drill the sump (pan), jack up the engine as far as it will go to get as much clearance as possible, remove the lower pan and drop it, then slide a piece of card or plastic between the two parts of the pan to catch the swarf.

[jinn_faz]

could i remove the oil switch and have a oil return line in there or add a T and get a oil return

[Turbocoop]

could i remove the oil switch and have a oil return line in there or add a T and get a oil return
I dont think it would flow well enough like that- remember it has to be the least restrictive as possible or you will screw up your turbo. Trust me I did it twice on my honda

[dejacky]

I dont think it would flow well enough like that- remember it has to be the least restrictive as possible or you will screw up your turbo. Trust me I did it twice on my honda It's also a good idea to put a oil restrictor before the turbo in the oil feed line.

[blknfury]

what the oil restrictor for, would i have to put that in the lexus union bolt.

[dejacky]

too much oil and pressure feeding the turbo will ruin the turbo seals..especially on smaller turbos. Putting an oil restricter on the oil feed hole of the turbo will only prolong it's life, especially with an extra filter in the oil feed line path. An added plus, is it will leave the engine with higher oil pressure because of the restrictor.

[blknfury]

where do you get the restrictor from

[Dramon]

As far oil pressure goes you should be fine with a -4 oil feed and -10 oil return without the need for an oil restrictor.

[young gun]

would their be ill affects of tapping the oil return line into the lower as opposed to the standard location?

[dejacky]

where do you get the restrictor from http://www.function-7.com

[skyline18]

hate to pull up an old post, but i am about to do this to mine, does the cross member have to be removed or does the engine have to be lifted in order to get off the part of the pan that needs to be drilled? i need to change my oil pan gasket anyway so it needs to come off, but whether the engine needs to come up or the crossmember needs to be taken off affects what shop i need to go to. they are both far and do certain things for totally different prices.

[Gunnar]

What is the thread size on the IS300 union bolt? The 90' elbow that came with my oil line kit won't screw into it so I need an adapter or just a new fitting.

[toyota1515]

i will use a -12 an fitting if i wasnt using the TT pan. and still may use the -12 an fitting.

[adam8103]

for the lexus union bolt from the is300 from the thread it seems that the hole is already apart of the union bolt am I wrong? today i went to lexus dealer to buy one and we cant see on the drawing if the hole is in the union bolt... the part number of this is 90401-19008 (is-300) and on the sc300 there is two option the 90401-19008 and 90401-19007 i was wondering if i bought that for nothing... i did not see the union bolt yet they had to order it... maybe i can cancell my order and use the one from my sc300 92

[LexusFTW]

You will need the one from the IS300. The SC300 wont have the hole.

[adam8103]

thank you, i will cancell it and go with a sandwich plate it is not expansive on e-bay here in canada the bolt is 50$

[ftlewissoldier]

Here is what i did so i didnt have to tap the block.........that sucks...........this rocks....
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/twincamtech_2006_14353455

and yes it sends enough oil........

[ftlewissoldier]

:ugh2:just finished plumbing the intercooler in on my car................oh yeah ........
turbo is just sitting there.........i have the na-t kit from suprastore.com


which flang goes on the return line out of the turbo...........all that i have left in the kit are some large an connectors..........:

[ftlewissoldier]

I the turbo kit from suprastore.com really simple kit....the oil return line...is my question...in the kit all i have are lare flanges....and a large black hose left...am i supposed to some how rig that in for the return line...or am i missing something from the kit..with the pt61......

also the distrtibutor is right in the way of me putting a filter over the compressor housing.....HELP

[ftlewissoldier]

well i finally finished with the build...started it up and sounded awesome for about 5 mins...then oil everywhere...not to worry ......the fitting in kit fit the top of the adapter plate but was to small for the for the oil feed line.....and here is a question does anyone know what to use on the return end of the turbo...i tried the rubber hose but it the header...how much can i clock the turbo....the center section.....before its not good... i think this is the only way to get it to clear...let me know your thoughts...please....i have a write up on what i did step by step....and pics....i will post them and write in the little kinks and snares i ran into.....

[yauser]

for the lexus union bolt from the is300 from the thread it seems that the hole is already apart of the union bolt am I wrong? today i went to lexus dealer to buy one and we cant see on the drawing if the hole is in the union bolt... the part number of this is 90401-19008 (is-300) and on the sc300 there is two option the 90401-19008 and 90401-19007 i was wondering if i bought that for nothing... i did not see the union bolt yet they had to order it... maybe i can cancell my order and use the one from my sc300 92

As long as you order a US 1st IS300 UB, it will have the hole there. Another option is to drill a hole on the SC300 UB, and you'll save quite a few dollars, lol..

[yauser]

Here is what i did so i didnt have to tap the block.........that sucks...........this rocks....

and yes it sends enough oil........

Now that's bad ass! However, you better make sure that you run an oil pressure gauge in addition! I think I might go this route too. Before I purchased a fat ass drill bit from Home Depot, and drilled the pre-drilled oil return spot on the na motor. You got to get one of those angle drills to attach to a drill, because no drill will be small enough to fit in that area. By the way, is it hard to get to the oil sensor, if I am going to buy this part.

[Durableswedish]

would it be possible to use a supra turbo (2jzgte) oil pan because it already has the oil return? do they have different bolt patterns?

[nghty89]

Why tap and drill when you can buy an adapter plate that fits between that and the oil filter... a braided line would plug right up...

[jspec97supra]

Anybody knows anything about the drill less oil return line?

[fenderub]

so let me get this right.

so on the GE upper oil pan, i will be drilling a 7/8" hole. now i drill all the way through? but what is this washer i read about at the end that may drop in the pan? is the washer the peice of 7/8' aluminum that you just drilled out?

also is this 7/8" hole meant for which oil return fitting? the actual 2jzgte return fitting? or is this an aftermarket fitting?

[orthoftw]

Oil Feed Line:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil_sensor_mod/index.html

Oil Pressure Sensor Mod for 93-97 Only

Factory Oil pressure sensor and warning method is not exactly the greatest for those of us with modified engines. I've been looking for a way to keep the redundancy of having the factory sensor in place with it's warning but also wanted to run a oil pressure gauge. Here is what I found to be the best way of doing it.

If you ever tried to access the factory oil pressure sensor, you'll know how difficult it is to get to it. Instead of removing it just use the Union bolt from the new 2001 Lexus IS300 (picture below) OR from a 1998tt Supra. This will allow you to add a second oil pressure sensor for your pressure gauge easily.

The Lexus IS300 & 1998 Supra run the factory pressure sensor on the base of the union bolt which is much easier to access than the Supra pressure sensor which it screwed into the block behind the AC compressor.

Simply remove the stock union bolt and replace it with the Lexus unit. Once tighten to recommended torque (65 pounds), screw in the aftermarket oil pressure sensor to the base of the union bolt. Make sure to use some Teflon tape on the new pressure sensor to keep it from developing any leaks. The whole job will take less than 1/2 hour and now you have two devices that will warn you of impending disaster should the oil pressure drop to dangerous levels.

The part number you need are,

90401-19008 Union Bolt
90430-20016 Gasket
90301-68005 O-ring (Optional)

[ricardod]

bought a t61 oil feed & return line kit off ebay allong with adjustable cam gears and a sandwich plate

oil feed line:
used sandwich plate with the feed line between the oil filter and oil filter flange and put the 90 degree fitting on the turbo along with the oil resistor flange.

oil return line:
Drilled out the hole with a unibit and a 90 degree angle drill mount.
As my supra is RHD i was @$%^&*%ing around with the angle drill not fitting between my
steering rack assembly and the hole i wanted to drill. i then dismanteled the steering rack assembly (4 bolts on the frame easy to reach) and 2 bolts from the steering column, so i didnt have to jack the engine up. i put the steering rack away from the hole i needed to drill and i had plenty of room to to this and drill the 2 holes aside from the big oil return hole for the bolts to fit the flange.
put the flange on bolted it together and flushed the engine with 5 liters of regular gasoline and then flushed the engine with 1 liter of new 5w40 full synth oil trough both the oil filling cap and the oil return hole for extra cleansing.
i highly recomend flushing your engine with gasoline as oil only sticks the shards inside the engine as its way to thick as a fluid.
use oil afterwards tho as gasoline removes oil, and your engine bay will be dry from the inside after the gas evaporates.

just my 0,02 ;)

[Importsnrice]

I SOLVED the infamous NA-t oil return line problem! It'll cost between 90-120 bucks but is totally worth it. Once I upload pics I'll post in here how to acquire this line. Sound performance fabbed it up for me

[TRD-1]

I SOLVED the infamous NA-t oil return line problem! It'll cost between 90-120 bucks but is totally worth it. Once I upload pics I'll post in here how to acquire this line. Sound performance fabbed it up for me

Wow!....Get some pics up bud so we can all see the solution!....:)

[RyanV]

Well...where's this miracle solution!???

I just spoke to Sound Performance. He said there's no method he'd consider safe. He always pulls the motor and does the job correctly. He's right too, it only takes 2-4hrs to pull the motor depending on your skill level and tools on hand.

****One tip he gave is that he taps out the 2- 6mm holes to 8mm to hold the oil return line plate.***thats priceless info, solid experience talking..

With that said here are a few ideas I was tossing around, but at this point I'm pulling the motor or at least lifting it up far enough to remove the pans.


Here's what I got from reading various info around the net about tapping the pan for the oil return.

These are some options I have read about that Im considering for the oil return, situation.

Option 1. You can totally overfill the engine with oil...like 5 gallons of cheap oil. That way when you drill the hole, the oil in the engine will push any loose shavings back out with the oil...sounds brilliant eh?

Option 2. You can buy a $200 high temp Mocal brand oil pump to pull the oil out of the oil drain and push it up into the valvecover. It might be better to use a 'sump' or anything that could collect oil coming from the turbo, and then have the Mocal pump suck the oil from that 'sump' so that it can keep up with the return flow of oil easier. You'd also want to use a piezo pressure switch to sound a buzzer if there was a stop in the flow of oil from the scavenge Mocal oil pump. This could get expensive...but BMW people do it and lots of others...such as motorcycles use this method as well for turbo setups..as do diesel trucks and other 'low mount' turbo kits where the oil drain doesn't have a steep enough 'drop' to the oil pan.

Option 3. Drill it out with a Unibit (not a holesaw) method. This has been done for years. The Unibit packed with grease will grind most of the shavings back towards the bit. A holesaw won't do this and will create a large piece of aluminum that will probably fall into the oil pan once the hole has been cut. If I was going to drill, I'd use the Unibit all the way and go SUPER SLOW.

Option 4. ETS used the oil level sensor for the return in their 2jzge turbo kit. They removed the oil level sensor and made a small adapter so they could attach the drain line where the oil level sensor attached. The debated flaws in this method are- The oil level sensor is too low on the oil pan, and also is there enough 'drop' in the oil return line since the line has to be routed around front of the motor to the back of the pan area.

[Importsnrice]

Well the oil drain consists of 5 main parts. Oil drain flange off turbo, 45* -10an fitting, -10an line (ill measure it later), another 45* -10an fitting, and then a return flange at the oil pan. Sound performance did a wonderful job fabbing them up for me. The 2 secondary parts would be a TT gasket for the oil pan flange and then another gasket for the turbo flange. I also heat-wrapped the oil turbo flange just to be safe. The best thing about this way is that the oil just flows right out and you don't have to worry about it being congested.

The method worked beautifully and no problems so far and I've been DD the car since September 7th to December 15th! (Stored)

Turbo flange. It goes away from the manifold so you don't have to worry about anything hitting. IIRC I got it for $55 bucks. That included the parts and the fabrication.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281352_2027042592768_1145130297_31954507_6000188_n .jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/223007_2027044752822_1145130297_31954511_4575866_n .jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/228982_2027045592843_1145130297_31954512_6364615_n .jpg


Oil pan flange. SP made it one piece so ya don't have to worry about leaking :) I remember this piece was around 25 bucks which is a steal and it's amazing quality. I meant to put m8 bolts but I messed up the tapping so I tapped m10 instead. I think it works 10x better

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/262801_2027042192758_1145130297_31954506_6903131_n .jpg

And there you have it! A simple oil drain system which also works wonderfully.

I got the line and one of the 45* fittings (blue and red) off eBay and the second one (black) from SP for like 20 bucks. All together the oil drain should be around 100-130 bucks which isn't bad at all for this. Could be cheaper too depending on how you shop

[Importsnrice]

The feed line consists of 5 main parts. You have the Union bolt (Either Lexus IS300 or drill the stock one), the adapter to -4an fitting (I used the one in the kit), the line (again, forgot the measurement but I will get it), a 45* 1/4?NPT to -4an fitting, and the flange on the turbo. Ofcourse there's also the gasket for the turbo and the teftlon tape for the NPT sides. DO NOT use teftlon on the AN fittings.

The line that came with the kit broke on me and left a 4 quart oil spill on the floor along with a nice mess in my engine bay. If it wasn't for my friend who noticed the pile on the floor while I was backing up, my motor would have been gone. PLEASE DO NOT use the line provided! Granted it worked well for a bit, but from the heat it just got too brittle and the pressure exploded it. My new setup is awesome.

Old line setup. As you see, it runs behind the motor and is awkwardly attached to the turbo. I had a turbo blanket on so it didn't see as much heat but it still got hot.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396921_2490786186068_1145130297_32248097_197670202 1_n.jpg


The nice aftermath of the oil burning off my manifold after the incident (new line is on now, it was just burning out the oil)

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/397169_2490782025964_1145130297_32248091_107538689 4_n.jpg


The fitting I have coming off the Union bolt. It's something NPT to -4an and it came with the kit. Awesome piece. You can see how I routed the beginning of the new line in this picture

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/378149_2490790306171_1145130297_32248099_242742635 _n.jpg

And a more clear shot of the finalized line. I love it and have the feeling of assurance that it won't fail on me.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/403312_2490780745932_1145130297_32248089_156361708 2_n.jpg

[Importsnrice]

Hope that clears up some stuff for everyone! I was stressing out about all the lines before I started the build and am just glad everything worked out beautifully for me. I'm gonna contact Sound Performance soon to get shipping quotes for people who would want these items shipped to them and maybe even convince them to make a legit 2JZ-GE NA-t Oil feed and return kit on a budget for all of us NA-t'ers.

If anyone has any questions about oil lines or anything on their build, feel free to e-mail me or message me on Facebook! Facebook is the best way to get to me as I check my e-mail every week or 2. And there are a bunch of pictures up on Facebook of my build so feel free to add me and look at them.

Facebook.com/importsnrice or Importsnrice@yahoo.com or Souprah@yahoo.com


EDIT:

BTW, for drilling I really recommend pulling the motor out. The only reason that my motor was out the car is so I can drop the oil pan and it honestly isn't even that hard. This is what was in my oil pan after I used a unibit and the grease method and that's just a small portion of it

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/229611_2021288368916_1145130297_31945902_1083013_n .jpg

[RyanV]

We just finished doing this as well.

We overfilled the oil with 5 gallons, drilled the hole and you could see the shavings just flowing out everytime I pulled the drill bit out.

We were so unsure of the safety of it that we dropped the entire front subframe so that we could remove the lower oil pan and clean everything out.

We didn't have a ton of shavings in the oil pan due to overfilling it with oil, but there were quite a bit of shavings right below the hole we drilled.

Basically, this is proof that you should either pull the motor or drop the subframe. With the right tools on hand the subframe comes out within an hour, or the entire motor in about 2-3hrs.

These are only a bit of shavings that stuck to my fingers while cleaning the oil pan out. There were quite a bit more on the rags.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6571604511_9846a778cc_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6571604511/)
DSC02246 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6571604511/) by ryan_vela1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/), on Flickr

We used 3 legged engine support bar to hold the motor up safely, and then a jack under the car with a long board to support the front and rear subframe while we dropped it out.

You will have to bleed front calipers, but thats cake.

Car has to be on stands for this method.

Here's what you have to remove to drop the subframe.
1. brake caliper/rotors and hoses(only remove hose from caliper and hang
out of the way)
2. tie rod end castle bolts(you use a tie rod tool here, $20 at autoparts store)
3. lower strut bolt(use a punch or screwdriver to knock it out of the hole)
4. sway bar end link(only the bolt that connects it to the sway bar will work)
5. 4x steering rack bolts(tie the rack forward tight near the driver side out of the way)
6. loosen top steering shaft bolt up near the brake master(you only need to slide it down slightly)
7. bottom engine mount bolts(underneath crossmember)
8. small sensor in wheel hub(hang it forward somewhere)

9. Lift motor slightly and chain tightly to a quality Engine Support Bar.

10. place jack from the front with long board to support front and rear of the subframe.
11. loosen 1o subframe bolts
12. Slowly lower the jack a biit and make sure you didnt forget to loosen anything. It may make noise when it detaches from the rear frame since it's like 155 ft lbs back there

Now that we've done it once, it's an hour job. It really seems daunting, but it's not and beats the crap out of taking a chance on shavings eating up a good motor turbo lines etc...


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6571603995_55ffba751c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6571603995/)
DSC02236 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8952803@N08/6571603995/) by ryan_vela1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/8952803@N08/), on Flickr

If you wanted to drop the subframe first, remove the lower oil pan, oil baffle and pick up tube. You could stuff rags up into the upper oil pan and coat the area with grease(you can easily get to the oil you need to drill with the oil baffle and pickup tube removed and the subframe off the car.

Another plus of removing the subframe is that you can thoroughly pressure wash the entire thing.

[RyanV]

Turbo flange. It goes away from the manifold so you don't have to worry about anything hitting. IIRC I got it for $55 bucks. That included the parts and the fabrication.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281352_2027042592768_1145130297_31954507_6000188_n .jpg



I contacted SP, this is exactly what I'm needing right now for a proper return.

My flange>npt to -10>45 deg -10 swivel just do not have enough clearance.