Basic NA-T Installation

[Kirk]

Thread copied from SupraSONIC on Supraforums with his permission.

TURBO INSTALLATION GUIDE:
--This is a guide for the installation of a turbo kit on a MKIV Supra NA
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Before.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/pte52.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/IMG_0003.jpg
--Some year model NA’s may need to modify this guide
--This is a basic guide for those running basic turbo kits; i.e., this is a guide to install the minimum components for low level boosting for stock headgasket and stock injector kits
TURBO KIT COMPONENTS:
--Turbo w/ Bolts/Nuts/AN fittings
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_03.jpg
--Turbo Manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_04.jpg
--Wastegate kit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0014.jpg
--BOV kit and Intercooler Kit (intercooler, pipes, silicon hoses and clamps)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0009.jpg
--Downpipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0006.jpg
--WG Dump-pipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0007.jpg
--Exhaust
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/blitz006.jpg
--Oil Line kit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0008.jpg
(HERE (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=144136&highlight=oil+lines+turbo))
--Intake mod/filter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Intake.jpg
--AFC
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0013.jpg
--Fuel Pump kit
--4 feet vacuum hose
--Dozen or so vacuum hose clamps
--A brass T fitting
--Electrical Tape
--High Temp Silicon Gasket Goop
--Zip Ties
--6 quarts of oil

NECESSARY/RECOMMENDED SPECIAL TOOLS (TOOLS BEYOND BASIC TOOL SET):
--Dremel (Came in handy a few times)
--17mm+++ sockets and wrenches
--Small impact gun or drill with 90 degree attachment
--Bolt threader for oil return line
--Large drill bit for oil return line
--Grease/Petrolium Gelly & Q-Tips
--Shop Vac
SAFTEY PREPERATION:
--Put on eye protection
--Put on gloves
--Remove negative battery terminal

[Kirk]

INTAKE REMOVAL:

--Remove hoses attached to intake pipe and attached objects
--Remove MAF harness-clip
--Unplug the sparkplug wire resting over the intake and set aside
--Unscrew clamps holding the intake on the throttle body
--Remove MAF from intake box

EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL:

--WD-40 can be used to loosen the bolts on the manifold and downpipe (some people will find it easier to remove the downpipe first, and others won’t be able to like me)
--Loosen nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the engine
--Jack up the car and loosen the bolts holding the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust (this is at the spot which is supported by a bracket holding the pipe to the tranny)
--If you can, loosen the bolts holding the manifold to the downpipe
--Remove the bolts holding the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust (remember to support the exhaust or remove it)
--Remove the bolts holding the manifold to the downpipe (if you can’t it’s ok, skip next step)
--Pull downpipe out through the bottom of the car
--Remove the bolts holding the manifold to the engine
--Remove the o2 sensors from their harness clips (not from the manifold) and from the rest of the engine
--Lift the manifold out of the studs (if your downpipe is still attached to the manifold try to pull it out from the top; it helps to have someone wiggling the downpipe from under the car, but it can come out with finesse)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/ima1b.jpg

PREFIT:

--Loosely bolt together whole turbo assembly (manifold, wastegate, etc.) minus the turbo
--Test fit to make sure there is clearance and that no modifications need to be made
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/d2h.jpg
--If necessary, loosen bolts on rear of compressor housing to rotate the compressor housing to the proper position for the intercooler pipes (this may need to be done later as well if your estimation wasn’t satisfactory)
--Remove turbo assembly

OIL REMOVAL:

--With car still jacked…(or jack car up)
--Remove oil pan bolt
--Drain oil (duh!)
--After draining, screw in oil pan bolt (be gentle)

OIL LINE SETUP (SUPPLY LINE):

--Locate the oil filter (it is under the intake manifold), to the left of it is a huge bolt
--Remove any harness-clips that may be in the way
--Unscrew bolt (whole assembly should come off; i.e., bolt, filter, bracket, etc)
--Screw in new union bolt with the rest of the assembly (or drill)
--Screw in AN fitting for oil supply line with gasket sealer (some people do this before screwing the new union bolt in; do whatever your tools allow, or what is easiest)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/IMAGE0008.jpg
--Screw on the oil supply line with gasket material and drape line across engine

OIL LINE SETUP (RETURN LINE):

--This is one way to do it; this method provides a lot of flow!
--Locate oil return line location (it is on the exhaust side of the engine, towards the front of the car, on the block; look for a thumb sized whole with a hole on either side of it; the picture below has an AN fitting in the hole for a different return line setup than described below)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/ReturnFlange1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/eugene0009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Fresh2Jshortblock.jpg
--Spread a big drill bit with grease (or personal petroleum jelly supply)
--With bit and 90 degree adapter (or small impact drill) drill slowly perpendicular to the engine block, backing out drill every ¼ inch to remove filing and to reapply grease (applying grease to Q-Tips to help remove filings in the hole itself is a good idea)
--After about an inch you should be through, but be more meticulous about backing the drill out and reapplying grease as you approach an inch
--Clean up area/hole
--With a greased-up bolt-threader, thread (with socket wrench) the two holes to the sides of the return hole
--Clean up area/hole
--Bolt on gasket and oil return line flange to engine block
--Screw in with gasket material the AN fitting for the oil line
--Attach the oil supply line on the AN fitting and clamp down using hose clamp (make very tight)

TURBO MANIFOLD/WASTEGATE PREPARATION AND INSTALLATION:

--If you are running an external wastegate then bolt the wastegate and gaskets to the turbo manifold
--Attach any hose-fittings to the outside of the wastegate if not currently applied
--Use some light sandpaper (ex: 2000 grit) to clean stock exhaust manifold gasket
--Bolt gasket and manifold/wastegate assembly to the engine (remember to tighten bolts from the center out)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/d1.jpg

TURBO PREPARATION AND INSTALLATION:

--Attach AN supply line fitting with gasket material to turbo
--Bolt oil return flange and gasket to turbo
--Screw in with gasket material the AN fitting for the oil return line into the return flange
--Bolt turbo with gasket material, or with gasket, to turbo manifold

OIL LINE SETUP (SUPPLY/RETURN LINES) CONTINUED:

--Cut oil return line to appropriate length
--Attach the oil return line on the AN fitting and clamp down using hose clamp (make very tight)
--Screw in with gasket material the supply line (some drape the line across the top of the engine; some wine the line though the engine assembly)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/image00019.jpg

DOWNPIPE INSTALLATION:

--Loosely bolt with gasket material, or gasket, and downpipe to the exhaust housing of the turbo
--With the car jacked up, loosely tighten the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust system and to the transmission bracket
--Finish bolting downpipe to turbo and exhaust system
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/d4.jpg
--Unjack or lower car

INTAKE INSTALLATION:

--Attach a pipe from the turbo to the MAF using hose connectors
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Img_0010.jpg
--Attach MAF back to stock or aftermarket filter
--With the misc. hoses which would normally attach to the stock intake, either put mini filters on them or attach them to the custom intake
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/image0002.jpg

INTERCOOLER/BOV SETUP AND INSTALLATION:

--Remove the front bumper and headlights (I am not even going to get into all the panels and screws that need to be removed)
--Mount the FMIC or SMIC using custom brackets/bolts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/install_2.jpg
--From each side of the intercooler begin attaching intercooler pipes working your way to a modification area or to the turbo and intake (modify pipes if needed for fitment)
--Tighten hose connectors with hose clamps (make very tight)
--Assemble front bumper and headlights
--Attach BOV to intercooler pipe if necessary (use clip or gaskets as needed)

[Kirk]

O2 SENSOR INSTALLATION FOR SINGLE BUNG DOWNPIPES (CALIFORNIA):

--Remove o2 sensors with their harnesses from the stock exhaust manifold (make sure not to get greasy fingers on the o2 sensor)
--There are four wires: Blue = signal wire, White = signal ground wire, Black = heater wire, Black = heater ground wire
--To know which black is which, plug in the harness; beyond the harness plug there are four wires that are all black with stripes; the two wires that extend through the harness plug from the Black wires are as follows: black w/ a red stripe [this is the heater wire] and black w/ a blue/yellow stripe [this is the heater ground wire and will be with a blue stripe on one o2 sensor and yellow on the other]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/image0007.jpg
--Screw in stock o2 sensor and plug into harness clip
--Remove an inch of insulation about half way down the length of the harness for each wire
--Cut the second o2 sensor harness in two about ¾ of the way from the harness plug and remove about ¾ of an inch to an inch of insulation from the ends of the wire harness (make sure that when this end is plugged in, it still has enough wire to attach to the other o2 sensor)
--Attach and solder the wires as follows: Blue to Blue, White to White, Black to Black (red stripes together), Black to Black (yellow and blue stripes together)
--Insulate wires individually after soldering

O2 SENSOR INSTALLATION FOR SINGLE BUNG DOWNPIPES (FEDERAL):

--Remove o2 sensors with their harnesses from the stock exhaust manifold (make sure not to get greasy fingers on the o2 sensor)
--There is one wire
--Screw in stock o2 sensor and plug into harness clip
--Remove an inch of insulation about half way down the length of the harness
--Cut the second o2 sensor harness in two about ¾ of the way from the harness plug and remove about ¾ of an inch to an inch of insulation from the ends of the wire harness (make sure that when this end is plugged in, it still has enough wire to attach to the other o2 sensor)
--Attach and solder the wires
--Insulate wires individually after soldering

VACUUM HOSE INSTALLATION (BOV & WASTEGATE):

--Locate the main manifold vacuum hose (it is next to the throttle cable assembly; it is on top of the intake manifold; it has a purple looking right angle on one side of the hose)
--Cut this hose
--Install a T brass fitting and tighten it down with hose clamps
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/image00010.jpg
--Attach and tighten with hose clamps a long hose
--Attach the other end of the hose to the BOV as described in the BOV instruction manual
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/image0001.jpg
--Locate AN fitting on the end of the turbo compressor housing and locate the turbo-wastegate fitting (it is usually on the side of the wastegate, but be sure to consult the manual)
--Connect a hose to these fittings and tighten them with hose clamps
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/image0004.jpg

MISC. STUFF AND STARTING THE CAR:

--Make sure everything is attached securely
--Zip tie or secure any loose o2 sensor wires or oil supply lines
--Return oil level to FULL
--Remove tools from engine bay
--Attach negative battery terminal
--Pressurize the oil by putting the car in the start position and cranking the car over, but not starting the car
--Start the car (hopefully all is well; adjust idle control screw if necessary; picture of it is shown with vacuum line; it is the shinny blurry silver round object in the lower part of the picture; the silver is washer-spacers)
--Turn off the car

FUEL PUMP INSTALLATION (FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY REMOVAL):

--Lower the back seats
--Remove the carpet, spare tire, etc.
--Remove the six bolts holding on the black cap under the tire
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/Trunk.jpg
--Remove the cap (may take a screwdriver because of insulation)
--Remove the relay plug
--Try several times to start the car till the car won’t start to depressurize the fuel system
--Remove the negative battery terminal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/FuelConnected.jpg
--Remove the two rubber hoses next to the relay (there may still be pressure, so use a rag to soak up excess fuel)
--Remove big bolt/hose
--Loosen and remove the hose clamp around the retainer
--Unscrew and remove the retainer (this may be very hard because it is rubber threaded; use a hammer and screwdriver on edges to slowly turn retainer if necessary)
--Pull the fuel pump assembly out
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/jirace/NA-T%20Guide/PumpAssembly2.jpg

FUEL PUMP INSTALLATION (NEW FUEL PUMP INSTALLATION)

--Move to an area to work on the fuel pump assembly
--Move the hose clips to the center of the hose
--Loosen the fuel pump by removing the bottom out of the rubber brace
--Slide the fuel pump out of the hose
--Install the new fuel pump as described by the installation instruction (a note: for the pump harness, in general, a new harness will have a red and black wire; the black goes to the black and the red goes to the green)
--Install the fuel pump assembly back into the car in the reverse order as REMOVAL
--After completing the install connect the negative battery terminal
--Start the car (it may take a few times)

YOU ARE DONE!!! TUNE THE CAR AND ENJOY BOOSTING!!!

--Justin

**EDIT** Here is a good clutch install by the same guy I got some of the oil and fuel pics from. CLICK HERE (http://www.funkyard.i8.com/Supra/TechArticles/BoltOnParts/Clutch.html)

[kreativekvs209]

i skimmed through the write up and since there's no pictures .* and most of the info is based on photo's*. i'm totally lost.. anywho... i'm doing the na t swap for my bro's n/a mk4.. we have the turbine, and intercooler... getting custom pipes.. oil --> turbo shouldn't be an issue.. i'm not new to swaping motors/ or turboing motors, so my question here will be simple....

1. do i need to upgrade the fuel or any fuel management.. or can i just use some check valve so the cpu dont read boost?

2. how much power/torgue can the rear end handle?

3. anything else i should worrie about?

[kreativekvs209]

due to the lacking of pictures on this page.. i seem to be not getting everything.... my questions are simple if there is another thread which explain this swap more then please help me out and send me a link..

anywho..

1: do i NEED to modifie the fuel any?
2: do i need to modifie the cpu or anything like that for boost?
3: any other usefull information would be great.

[das]

just what i needed, wish the pics worked though

[modemthug]

Can someone fix/reupload the pictures please?