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View Full Version : Help...Oil Return Messed Up


btm7687
10-02-2005, 02:39 AM
First of all, mods, I would have put this in the big oil line thread, but this is pretty urgent and I don't think people will check that as much...if this one isn't ok...you can move it.

So I was doing the bolts today for the oil return, I had previously tapped for the bolts and drilled the hole. So I put the thing on there and I start to have trouble. The bolts I had seemed to be too small, they wouldn't catch the threads. So now I'm thinking I screwed up tapping, anyway, I head to get some more bolts and I get back...those don't have enough threading. I go back ONE more time and get some, they have what looks like enough threading, so I pick a couple of them, but I don't know until I get back...they fit just fine and I'm putting them in with the flange on. It catches and then continues on...so then it catches again and I'm thinking it will keep going...wrong...I didn't even twist it that hard and the top of the stupid bolt snapped off. So now what I have is one empty tapped hole, one hole for oil, and one hole tapped hole that has the bottom of a bolt in it. The threading sticks out about 2-3mm so I already tried pliers, anything I could think of to unscrew it. It is REALLY in there...so any ideas to get it out? Also, is this going to screw my threading? What can I do about that? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bryan M.

aliga
10-02-2005, 09:39 AM
try visegrips, or take a dremel make a slot in it, and try with a screwdriver

btm7687
10-02-2005, 02:45 PM
Assuming I do get it out...what next? Are the threads from the 6mm tap going to be screwed up? Will I need to get like a 7mm tap and then get two new 7mm bolts?

Bryan M.

4cefed *SCAMMER*
10-02-2005, 02:56 PM
if you are careful your threads should be alright,if you cant get it out with the dremel/screwdriver trick,i suggest you go to sears or homedepot and get an easyout drill bit itll pull the stud right out no problem(saved my ass many times)

dejacky
10-02-2005, 03:12 PM
If you get fed up with trying to make those two screw holes hold the oil return flange, just weld the oil return flange on so it will NEVER leak :ylsuper: .

btm7687
10-02-2005, 06:39 PM
If you get fed up with trying to make those two screw holes hold the oil return flange, just weld the oil return flange on so it will NEVER leak :ylsuper: .

That is a good idea...I don't have a welder, but do you know how much it would cost to get it welded? Only thing is...I want to upgrade in the future to a T67...will that flange work on that turbo too? Also...is there even a T67 with the 3-bolt manifold flange?

Bryan M.

DaveH
10-03-2005, 10:59 AM
You can rotate the flange about 15 degrees and drill/tap two new holes to bolt the flange onto the oil pan. If you can't get the broken bolt out, thats your best bet IMO.

Gregg
10-03-2005, 12:13 PM
Of course you could always tap the CENTER hole and forget about the side holes altogether - I believe this is how the PHR kits fit their oil return lines.

In any case, good luck.

dejacky
10-03-2005, 04:40 PM
welding that should be about 1 hour of labor....so go to a good welder ~$75/hour and you never have to worry about it.

chitwnsazn
10-03-2005, 05:13 PM
welding that should be about 1 hour of labor....so go to a good welder ~$75/hour and you never have to worry about it.
That seems like a pain in the @$$. $75 to fix a small problem

btm7687
10-03-2005, 06:54 PM
That seems like a pain in the @$$. $75 to fix a small problem

Yeah...I think I'll put a little more effort into fixing it myself before I use that as a last resort.

NinetyFiveNA
10-03-2005, 06:57 PM
You can rotate the flange about 15 degrees and drill/tap two new holes to bolt the flange onto the oil pan. If you can't get the broken bolt out, thats your best bet IMO.

I did this when I broke my frigin tap off in one of the holes. Works like a champ, never had a problem. :thumbup: