How to R154 swap an SC3/SC4

[2jzlex]

Here is my documentation of my R154 MKIII trans swap into a 92 SC4. Each new post will cover a different topic of my swap, for example this first section will be parts and assembling the transmission after the rebuild. First let me start with some basic information about the time, money, etc.

I did this swap in 2 days, with minimal difficulty (not including installing the clutch pedal assembly. It cost me total about $2500 give or take some. you could probably do this at a fraction of this price, but I wanted to do this right the first time, so I spent the money. If you have access to a lift, I highly recommend waiting and using it, also a trans jack, borrow it from a friend, rent it, or w/e, but get one.

PARTS USED

R154 transmission (from an MKIII)
1jz bellhousing
1jz flywheel
Clutch master cyclinder from MKIII (turbo or non, doesnt matter)
Slave cylinder from MKIII (turbo)
Stainless Steel braided clutch line for MKIII (optional)
clutch setup for MKIII (must be MKIII)
Custom driveshaft ( I will dedicate a section specifically for driveshaft discussion)
Because I am doing an SC400, I had to switch out the entire driveshaft to an SC300.
Cut and extended shifter (Again, I will dedicate an entire section on this subject)

Heres a pic of the R154 after I had it rebuilt
http://i30.tinypic.com/w87ora.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/24zf1hf.jpg

Here is a pic of the 1jz bellhousing compared to the R154, they bolt to the transmission the same, but how they bolt up the block is different.
http://i26.tinypic.com/avr7v4.jpg

Heres a pic of the inspection plate that will need to switched from the original transmission. The inspection plates are needed for the clutch install that will be explained later.
http://i28.tinypic.com/2ewfgc1.jpg

This is the "hook" that the clutch fork will sit in
http://i25.tinypic.com/25gfls4.jpg

Slave cylinder installed
http://i32.tinypic.com/m81rpv.jpg

Bellhousing swapped, slave cylinder installed w/ clutch fork, one inspection plate on left side on.
http://i32.tinypic.com/oa2fza.jpg

Starting to look like a tranny again
http://i28.tinypic.com/15efj3r.jpg

1j flywheel
http://i30.tinypic.com/2usto41.jpg

Master cylinder
http://i32.tinypic.com/2w2imu1.jpg

[2jzlex]

MKII CLUTCH PEDAL INSTALL
Looking back on using this setup, I would highly recommend using the SC3 pedaly assembly. It really simplifies everything and it's a direct bolt in. If you wish to use the MKIII assembly, pay close attention to the differences in the cutout for the SC300 pedal and how it differs for the MKIII pedal.

Here you can see up underneath the driver side panels where the cutout pattern is on the firewall. The red circle is the cutout and the arrow is pointing to 1 of 2 bolts that will need to be removed to make room for the pedal assymbly. Just follow the bar until you find the other bolt and the whole thing comes right out. Connected to the bar is the control unit for the electronic tilt on the steering column, I just removed mine and there is no affects/codes on anything. There are two plugs connected to it and are simple to remove.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2njkn7l.jpg

Showing how restrictive the bar is, the cutout is right behind the shadow of the bar.
http://i31.tinypic.com/nvp3dl.jpg

OK, here is where things went south! The cutout is for the SC300 assymbly, the MKIII will not fit this cutout, it slants the whole assembly and the clutch pedal ends up underneath your brake pedal. To get everything to bolt up/cut out right the first time, mach up your MKIII pedal assembly using the bolt hole for the assembly in the second picture.
http://i30.tinypic.com/e8o57n.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/10pbkpk.jpg

You will notice after maching it up that the cutout is off, it actually needs to be cutout differently. If you are inside the vehicle looking at the stock cutout pattern, it actually needs to be rotated from about the 11:30 to the 10:20 position. While you have it mached, make your marks aligning it with the cutout for the bottom bolt hole, and you will see what I am talking about. Now, after you have done this and done your cutout, you will notice that the outside hole(looking from inside the car) will come out where you cant access it. This pic shows you what to cut to be able to get the bolt from the master cylinder into the pedal assembly. I used a dremel tool and after about 8 of em I got it finished. The red lines on the right show what to cut. The red half circles show where my first cutout was according the pattern on the firewall for the SC300 assembly(top half circle), and where it actually should have been(bottom half circle).
http://i30.tinypic.com/2e35zxk.jpg

Since nothing else has fit, the stock studs on the the master cylinder aren't long enough now to reach through on both sides to adequately secure the pedal. The longer bolt is the outside bolt.
http://i25.tinypic.com/2vsi4y9.jpg

All the hard stuff is done now, here is a couple of pics on how it looks. If you look close enough you can see that I used some adhesive weather stripping to cover the rough edges that I had cut on both the firewall and fender well. It cleans it up nice and gives it clean stock look.
http://i30.tinypic.com/5yc09v.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/ooead.jpg


An inside shot of the assembly mounted.
http://i31.tinypic.com/10h125d.jpg


Finally, here is the placement of the pedal.
http://i27.tinypic.com/2v00tqs.jpg

[2jzlex]

CLUTCH ASSEMBLY AND INSTALL

Here is a picture of the MKIII clutch from an R154:

http://i34.tinypic.com/jqi6fs.gif

Now, when installing this clutch assembly, use the instructions via the MKIII TSRM. (make sure to pay attention to the 7mgte (R154) install)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CL&P=9

Basically this is what it breaks down to (installing wise):

1. Install new pilot bearing if needed
2. Bolt down flywheel
3. Assemble T/O bearing itself, and then on the PP(clutch cover)
4. Slide PP and T/O onto input shaft of trans
5. Slide disk onto input shaft after the PP
6. Slide input shaft into the pilot bearing
7. Tighten the bellhousing to the block

Now this is where the Inspection plates come into play. With the covers off, turn the flywheel and tighten the PP to the flywheel using a cross sectional pattern through the inspection plate covers. Make sure you use the torques specs via TSRM.

8. Install the clutch fork
9. Reinstall the plate covers.

AUTO GUYS GOING TO MANUAL

Make sure you remove the spacers and install the correct pilot bearing:

Spacers:
http://i36.tinypic.com/n66hr5.jpg

Pilot Bearing installed ( the pilot bearing for MKIII works)
http://i34.tinypic.com/eld25h.jpg

ASSEMBLING THE T/O BEARING

For assembling, refer to the above diagram

Here is what it should look like together and how it sits in the PP:
http://i37.tinypic.com/30b1ce9.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/2ykxv09.jpg

[2jzlex]

HOW TO EXTEND THE SHIFTER


Ok, here we go. First, there are alot of different ways to fit so I will list several links and ideas and then give my personal opinion. This is thanks to Shern via CL.


One of the major issues, as you mentioned, is extending the shifter location rearward to line up with the shifter boot in our SC. I know of 4 different solutions to extending the shifter back:

1) Manually extend the shifter and shifter housing (vipsoarer)
Solution to soarer r154 (http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183050v)

2) Manually convert the MK3 R154 to an early model Soarer swan style shifter using Toyota OEM parts (blizzy)
The start of some V8 madness (http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290641)

3) Manipulate the shifter back by bending it to better align with the shift boot (Blk97SC300 )
R154 shifter extension- Possible alternative? (http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332951)

4) Have Tech2Motorsports do the extension for you
Tech 2 Shifter Extension (http://tech2motorsports.com/tech-2-motorsports/tech-2-shifter-extension/shiftextension/i-82263.aspx)


Now, some say that it is no longer possible to get the parts to extend the shifter, I do not know this for sure so you will just have to research that for yourself. In addition to all the above information, you can also use either a R154 or W58 shifter. I would recommend the W58 because it sits centered and not slanted to the driver side. In addition to THAT, there are different styles of the R154 and the W58.


Personally, I say manually extend the shifter for a number of reasons:

1. You are modifying 1 part, not 4 or 8 or w/e
2. It is the simplest
3. It is the cheapest
4. It allows you to place it where you want it according to your needs/wants

This is how I extended my shifter:

2" directly back

http://i36.tinypic.com/2z4mli9.jpg

Now, let me make something clear, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT MAKE A GUESS WITH YOUR TRANS OUT OF THE CAR ON HOW FAR TO EXTEND THE SHIFTER!!!!!! Wait, be patient, and do it right. Each situation varies, not every swap is the same. Mount your trans in the car, rip apart your dash, and look to see where you need to cut it.

I believe mine was 2 x/x" inches forward from the original auto hole.

http://i38.tinypic.com/2rqbukx.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/2wc1aw5.jpg

Now buy a shifter boot if you were auto from:
http://luxurymods.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=535

This is how it sits:

http://i33.tinypic.com/2z7ochc.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/11acs1v.jpg
..........

[2jzlex]

DRIVESHAFT

Ok, the d/s. Here are some uncommon facts

The auto front half of the SC3 is the same as the R154 front half. However, the length is different.

There ARE differences (it could be year, it could be model, idk) between the rear halves of the W58 from the SC3 5 speed and the SC3 auto. It has been documented by several people as well as myself. Some have claimed just swapping the front half of the d/s has worked perfect. However, ALL OF THEM have been previously 5 speed, so that leads me to believe that there is a difference.

The SC4 d/s will not work for a number of reasons, so don't try.

Here is the SC4, SC3, and R154 front half (top to bottom)
http://i34.tinypic.com/fv8rk1.jpg


I am close to having a custom d/s made and I will document it as well. It will be an aluminum d/s with a custom companion flange.

[madmax98]

Lucky you man, my swap isn't working, i'm starting a thread if you could check it out.........

[projectdc2]

great thread

[heff81]

thanks for the great write up. i was trying to find something like this.

[2jzlex]

Thanks guys!! I've got a TT auto LSD and a custom companion flange (for a one peice aluminum d/s) sitting on my desk waiting to go in!!

[ShaneC]

wow.. very nice! cant wait to see how this makes the car feel. Great write up. keep us updated.

[extremeboost]

uh may zing

[ridox]

A clutch and flywheel option I've had luck with is the F1Racing Stage 3 clutch and 1JZ F1Racing chromoly light flywheel from gripforce.com for $469 and if you just need the 1JZ flywheel its $198.00. I heard its a nice setup and the flywheel only weighs like 13lbs and the clutch holds like 440ft/lbs torque.

They are on ebay too Item number: 390016575792 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-SUPRA-SOARER-SC300-1JZGTE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1 262QQcategoryZ33730QQihZ026QQitemZ390016575792)

[93civEJ1]

hey man, any update on this and how you are liking it? This is gothaimviii from Supraforums, and I am still gathering the parts for my swap in my MKIV.

[2jzlex]

Hey man! So far so good, the only realy thing I would change.... and I should edit this soon.... is that you should lay down the cash for a late model soarer shifter. The trajectories of the shifter when you extend it is really annoying to shift after awhile.

[J. Cooper]

Hey man! So far so good, the only realy thing I would change.... and I should edit this soon.... is that you should lay down the cash for a late model soarer shifter. The trajectories of the shifter when you extend it is really annoying to shift after awhile.

What do you mean by this? as in the shifts are wide? Are you having trouble getting it into 5th gear?

[1sxyrxy]

i see woman legs, in for nudes

[DrNick]

hahahaha
pics or gtfo ;)

[xspsi6]

Nice informative thread, Thanks!!

[sTcT300]

ok question since using na MKIII R154 does it affect the RPM and Speedo readings ?