magsupra
01-11-2009, 11:10 AM
Hi. Here's my install. Would suggest to those who have yet to install their kit to read the xspower manual over a few times before starting. Also read the technical fixes section, lots off important heads up info in there. Won't repeat what's in the manual but will go over some of the things I did in my installation. Allow me to reiterate this was just my way, not the only or the "right" way. Please use as reference only.
Unfortunately I didn't know about this site nor did I know XSpower kits were available direct and bought from dealer. But Mark at XSpower has been a real help to me through out the install. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank him publicly for the product and his support. Would also like to thank my friend Leo for his assistance his custom fab welding was a big part of this build.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/MagnusFung/supra/supraold1.jpg
Doing a 6MT swap at the same time and it was easy to yank the engine out. Hats off to those who did this with the motor in.
Not all the parts in the kit were utilized. I got my kit from supra store which is a bit different from what I understand if you buy this direct from XSpower.
I got the "tial" upgraded BOV. Other items include Mine's ECU, AEM FIC, Innovate G3 wideband kit, Greddy Profec B spec 2 EBC.
Here's the list of parts i used besides the obvious:
- 2 NPT elbows and both oil feed/return plates
- larger braided line for oil feed
- bango and oil bolt, copper washer
- metal gasket for turbo 2 mani
- metal gasket for wastegate
- foil/paper gasket for dump pipe
- orange gasket for oil return
- green gasket for oil feed
- O metal gasket for turbo 2 down pipe
- foil paper gasket to decat/midpipe
- L elbow NPT to hose nipple for top of edge (not center) waste gate, straight NPT to hose nipple for side wastegate
To fit the manifold to the block:
- ground some of the stud holes larger
- cut short studs on underside (use nuts that come with the kit for these as they are shorter)
- top bolts used OEM, as well as metal gastket. Make sure yours is in good condition if reuse.
To fit the tubo to the manifold:
The manual mentions an optional spacer for the turbo. I cut one of the braces off and repositioned it instead to clear the intake side of turbo housing. Before the braces look like this pattern from birds eye view /| |\. I cut off the most forward one and reattached it so looks like this |\|\ .
NOte the brace change.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00231-20090111-1729.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/MagnusFung/supra/IMG00108-20081221-1409.jpg
Also ground down the manifold side flange a bit to give room for the -12AN fitting. Details later.
The bolt on the right engine side of turbo flange went in from bottom, the rest from the top.
clock as needed, make sure the core feed is at the recommended degree.
Oil Feed/Return:
I decided to go with an upgraded return hose. Used a 45 degree -12AN from the turbo and a 45 degree -12AN to the block. NPT fittings were welded on to the plates supplied. Steel braided hose utilized.
On the return plate, a tight elbow was welded on in order to clear the power steering bolt. Otherwise the 12AN would be touching. Others have used 10AN with out an issue.
Here you can see the clearance issue.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00130-20081226-2012.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00133-20081226-2227.jpg
Here's the return plate modified.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00137-20081227-1315.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00177-20081229-1945.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00212-20090104-1836.jpg
Here's the return line completed. I'll add a small heatshield attached onto one of the turbo 2 manifold bolt for added safety later.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00215-20090104-1837.jpg
As mentioend in the above, the manifold flange and the turbo exhaust flange were both ground down to make room for a -12 AN fitting, so that there was room for the AN fitting to get tightened onto the NPT fitting. A -10AN would probably clear, but I wanted to keep the return as close to OEM size as possible.
Oil Feed:
I think the kit I got had a lot of parts for the GE mod which takes the feed tapped from the other side of the engine. I shortened my feed a bit at a hose shop because the slack made too many bends and just not tide. Added orange fuel line insulation to the oil feed. the rear oil feed hole needs to be plugged off. Bolt not supplied, any will do so long as it's not too long, NPT matches, reuse the stock washer or new copper one.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00200-20081229-2011-1.jpg
I used the copper washer supplied in the kit for the fender side but the stock washer for the engine side, oil bolt and bango supplied with kit.
thread tape for NPT fitting on turbo and for banjo. None for the block side.
Down pipe:
With everything bolted together I found the down pipe to be too close to the dumpipe. 1) didnt want any pipes touching 2) wanted more clearance to run the dump pipe.
Here's a photo showing spacing between downpipe and wastegate flange.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/MagnusFung/supra/IMG00106-20081221-1408.jpg
At first I tried removing the bungs but the spacing was still to tight for my preference.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00197-20081229-1949-1.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00199-20081229-1949.jpg
In the manual, it suggests to delete the lower bung if there's clearance issues. I modified the dumpipe all together. Retained both flanges and redid all the piping. Basically brought it a bit closer the the firewall, away from the wastegate and farther away from the subframe closer to the transmission. Bungs (and EGT) were relocated to the top of the down pipe.
Here's some photos.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00217-20090110-0008.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00225-20090110-1523.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00219-20090110-1458.jpg
For the OEM o2 pre cat sensor, the downpipe I got had the thread in bungs. I ordered a universal bosch and will splice that with the OEM plug.
Unfortunately I didn't know about this site nor did I know XSpower kits were available direct and bought from dealer. But Mark at XSpower has been a real help to me through out the install. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank him publicly for the product and his support. Would also like to thank my friend Leo for his assistance his custom fab welding was a big part of this build.
Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/MagnusFung/supra/supraold1.jpg
Doing a 6MT swap at the same time and it was easy to yank the engine out. Hats off to those who did this with the motor in.
Not all the parts in the kit were utilized. I got my kit from supra store which is a bit different from what I understand if you buy this direct from XSpower.
I got the "tial" upgraded BOV. Other items include Mine's ECU, AEM FIC, Innovate G3 wideband kit, Greddy Profec B spec 2 EBC.
Here's the list of parts i used besides the obvious:
- 2 NPT elbows and both oil feed/return plates
- larger braided line for oil feed
- bango and oil bolt, copper washer
- metal gasket for turbo 2 mani
- metal gasket for wastegate
- foil/paper gasket for dump pipe
- orange gasket for oil return
- green gasket for oil feed
- O metal gasket for turbo 2 down pipe
- foil paper gasket to decat/midpipe
- L elbow NPT to hose nipple for top of edge (not center) waste gate, straight NPT to hose nipple for side wastegate
To fit the manifold to the block:
- ground some of the stud holes larger
- cut short studs on underside (use nuts that come with the kit for these as they are shorter)
- top bolts used OEM, as well as metal gastket. Make sure yours is in good condition if reuse.
To fit the tubo to the manifold:
The manual mentions an optional spacer for the turbo. I cut one of the braces off and repositioned it instead to clear the intake side of turbo housing. Before the braces look like this pattern from birds eye view /| |\. I cut off the most forward one and reattached it so looks like this |\|\ .
NOte the brace change.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00231-20090111-1729.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/MagnusFung/supra/IMG00108-20081221-1409.jpg
Also ground down the manifold side flange a bit to give room for the -12AN fitting. Details later.
The bolt on the right engine side of turbo flange went in from bottom, the rest from the top.
clock as needed, make sure the core feed is at the recommended degree.
Oil Feed/Return:
I decided to go with an upgraded return hose. Used a 45 degree -12AN from the turbo and a 45 degree -12AN to the block. NPT fittings were welded on to the plates supplied. Steel braided hose utilized.
On the return plate, a tight elbow was welded on in order to clear the power steering bolt. Otherwise the 12AN would be touching. Others have used 10AN with out an issue.
Here you can see the clearance issue.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00130-20081226-2012.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00133-20081226-2227.jpg
Here's the return plate modified.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00137-20081227-1315.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00177-20081229-1945.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00212-20090104-1836.jpg
Here's the return line completed. I'll add a small heatshield attached onto one of the turbo 2 manifold bolt for added safety later.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00215-20090104-1837.jpg
As mentioend in the above, the manifold flange and the turbo exhaust flange were both ground down to make room for a -12 AN fitting, so that there was room for the AN fitting to get tightened onto the NPT fitting. A -10AN would probably clear, but I wanted to keep the return as close to OEM size as possible.
Oil Feed:
I think the kit I got had a lot of parts for the GE mod which takes the feed tapped from the other side of the engine. I shortened my feed a bit at a hose shop because the slack made too many bends and just not tide. Added orange fuel line insulation to the oil feed. the rear oil feed hole needs to be plugged off. Bolt not supplied, any will do so long as it's not too long, NPT matches, reuse the stock washer or new copper one.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00200-20081229-2011-1.jpg
I used the copper washer supplied in the kit for the fender side but the stock washer for the engine side, oil bolt and bango supplied with kit.
thread tape for NPT fitting on turbo and for banjo. None for the block side.
Down pipe:
With everything bolted together I found the down pipe to be too close to the dumpipe. 1) didnt want any pipes touching 2) wanted more clearance to run the dump pipe.
Here's a photo showing spacing between downpipe and wastegate flange.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v480/MagnusFung/supra/IMG00106-20081221-1408.jpg
At first I tried removing the bungs but the spacing was still to tight for my preference.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00197-20081229-1949-1.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00199-20081229-1949.jpg
In the manual, it suggests to delete the lower bung if there's clearance issues. I modified the dumpipe all together. Retained both flanges and redid all the piping. Basically brought it a bit closer the the firewall, away from the wastegate and farther away from the subframe closer to the transmission. Bungs (and EGT) were relocated to the top of the down pipe.
Here's some photos.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00217-20090110-0008.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00225-20090110-1523.jpg
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/mad-ness/Supra/IMG00219-20090110-1458.jpg
For the OEM o2 pre cat sensor, the downpipe I got had the thread in bungs. I ordered a universal bosch and will splice that with the OEM plug.