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Write up; how to do the egr mod (with pics :) )
Old 08-09-2005, 12:23 AM   #1
michaelvanle
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Write up; how to do the egr mod (with pics :) )

I'm combining Xdreamer's write-up with some pics I have and a lil explanation:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xdreamer
Well i finally have time to sit down and type out the how to on blocking you egr gases from entering youe intake manifold. thus cooling the intake charge and keeping your engine internals cleaner. And along with taking the pip that blocks the flor on the intake manfiold. will give you more airflow and less disturbance .

The 3 things you need to do this mod is 2 expansion plugs from pep boys,

part# 362501.1 35/64" sc exp plug

part#362747.1 20mm deep exp plug


Can of intake/thorttle body cleaner- you will see how dirty is when its apart. it took me almost 2 cans to get everything clean

one fuse from radio shack

ohm 1/2 watt resistor (part# 271-1126)

use the same resistor as the twin turbo egr mod

Ok lets start at step one .

step #1 Remove you intake/ intake pipe and filter

step #2 disconnect all the lines going to your throttle body
inlcuding thorttle lines and vacuum hoses. make sure you note what your removing and make sure you know where you took it off when putting evrything back when your done. there a egr diagram under the hood to help you out.

step #3 disconnect the egr system tubes and remove the tope egr saucer looking thing.

Step #4 removal the throttle body make sure you removal all the bolts.

Step #5 diconnect any tubes going into your intake manfiold.

Step #6 removal all the bolts holding the intake manfiold which is right after the throttle body and lookis like a y its one tube going into two then it connects to your runners. The inatke manifold uses a metal gasket and can be reused just make sure you dont damage it when removing it. Ther are going to be two bolts under the intake manfiold so you have to take them off before you take the manfiold off.

Step #7 remove the egr tube that attaches to the intake manfiold . you will need to take the bols off ten reomal the threaded bolts that hold evrything together/

Step #8 ok now you have done the hard part / you have the thorttle body off, you ave the intake manifold and metall gasket off .

Step #9 unplug the egr probe sensor connector and put the fuse in where the egr probe plugged in. make sure you secure the fuse in there. this will disbale your check engine from coming on.

Step #10 Clean the inside of you intake manfiold until its looks new. when you look inside the intake manfiold you will see a metal tube right before where the single intake path becomes two and right before the sort of air foil thing. thats what we called it on the impala's. Anyways you will need to unscrew the screw that holding the pipe in . next drill a hold threw the expansiong plugs that in there and take it out .

Step #11 removal the pipe that goes threw your intake manfiold thats used for the egr. its going to take you a couple mins to do . its snug in there. but it does come out.

Step #12 install the new 35/64 sc exp plug in the place of the one you took out.

step #13 install 20mm deep exp plug in where the egr tube connected to on the side of the intake manfiold . this will block the hot /dirty gas from entering your engine.

step #14 Now you are ready to bolt evrthing back on the car . its easier to put eveything back on then it is to take it off. Now just reinatsll all these parts on your car . when connecting the egr tube that comes from the back of the block back on the car make
sure to use the gasket. reinstall all the vacuum tubes/ sensors, install the throttle body , reconnect all the vacuum hoses and throttle cable, make sure everything is in the right spot. or else your car willnt run right. install you intake reonnect the maf, and start her up. It might take couple mins to idle right but afetr that your set. it took me about 5mins cause i disconnected the battery and cleaned the runners with intake/throttle body cleaner. the engine was really dirt on the inside. if you look at the egr tube you took out you will see how much crap is in it.

By the way your car might not pass emissions with this mod but ifs its already warm and runnning mint you will. If this is a problem for you dont do this mod is (off-road use only)

Good luck Sorry If i left anything out .


~Xdreamer~ 93.5 all natural supra (long island , NY)


If you want to take the whole egr system out you will need two egr plates to remove it completely. this will clean up your enigne bay but its emission legality is questionable but alot of cars pass visiaul with it blocked and should pass if the car is running good and is already warm. I am in no way repsonsible for anything that occurs after this modification to your car . Sorry i just have to cover my A$$. I have done this on my car within the last week and the car is alot more repsonive . it pulls harder and no affect on gas milage or idle.
i have seen no downside with it as of yet except a more responsive car. its like porting you intake manfiold to a degree you now adding about 20-25 percent more flow internally. so if you have a exhuast you will see a bigger gain. the gain is from removing the pipe. blocking the egr basically
stop the overheating of your pistons and wot and keeps the dirty gases out of enigne . All the tools you need are the same as the twin turbo egr removal . Sorry i didnt have time to note what sockets i used . Enjoy



-------------------

Here's my short and ghetto version to go along with that long one. My version is shitty, but it has pics
This is what we started with.


Take off the IC pipes (or intake if you are NA) so you can access the TB. I removed my intake pipe because I'm doing my wg, but you don't have to.


Remove the throttle body, and loosely slide it out. DO NOT mess with the coolant lines.


You can choose to remove the Y first if you want. I can't seem to remove the Y so I removed it with the plenum at the same time. I was a bitch with the EGR thing attached to it.


This is how it should look like at this point.



You can see the EGR here. For those of you who dunno what the EGR looks like so here's a nice pretty pic. Remove it by removing the the (2) 12mm bolts that attaches it on each end.



Here you can see the hole that the EGR connects to in the Y pipe.


Here is what it looks like with the block plate installed.


Here's what it looks like on the block with the plate installed.



My dad is a machinist and just made those for me like 30 mins ago (yes I realize it's midnight, haha).
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Old 08-09-2005, 12:27 AM   #2
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Here's a pic of the stock EGR. You will need to install a 10K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor where the harness used to plug to in the engine bay so the CEL don't get tripped.

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Old 08-09-2005, 12:51 AM   #3
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Sweet write up. Thanks for posting!

PS- If your dad gets bored and starts making sets, (cough)... I'll give you my shipping address.
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Old 08-09-2005, 12:55 AM   #4
michaelvanle
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He hand cut that shit, lol. I was like "can't you just input the info into the machine and let that pos cut it??". I dunno but he wasted a little over an hour cutting that shit. Not sure wtf he was doing the whole time.
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Old 08-09-2005, 03:51 AM   #5
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Boostlogic sells EGR block off plates for the GE motor for $45 btw

Nice writeup!!!
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Old 08-09-2005, 07:46 PM   #6
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just read thin on SF... now all we need is a good write up on the coolant bypass.
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Old 08-09-2005, 09:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ki_soarer
just read thin on SF... now all we need is a good write up on the coolant bypass.
Lol, be prepared for my coolant mod and charcoal canister mod soon too, lol. I'll do a fuel dampening bypass mod too if you guys want, since I'm doing all that to my car this week.
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Old 01-07-2006, 12:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelvanle
Lol, be prepared for my coolant mod and charcoal canister mod soon too, lol. I'll do a fuel dampening bypass mod too if you guys want, since I'm doing all that to my car this week.
Any word?

Also, could we try to get a list together of places to get the EGR plates and other parts neccessary for the other mentioned mods? I know Boost Logic sells the EGR block-off plates, but for $50 + shipping, and I just can't justify that for 2 little pieces of metal.
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:34 PM   #9
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The coolant mod is simple that I never bothered to make a thread for it. I think I made a thread for the charcoal canister here somewhere (at least I did it over on SF).

As for the plates, I had my dad make them. I see them on eBay for like $5 + shipping or something. I had my dad cut a few, but it's so long ago. I'll try and see if I still have it somewhere.

If I do have it, just pay shipping and it's yours. I doubt I still have it though.
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:47 PM   #10
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Sweet bud, thanks! Just send me a PM and let me know.
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Pioneer HU :: JL Audio 6.5" Components :: Audiobahn 12"s :: Audiobahn and MA Audio Amps :: ICW Rims :: Pre-'95 SC4 Wing :: 30% Tint :: De-lined headlights w/Silverstars :: BFI Intake :: S-AFC II :: To Be Installed - Daizen Sway Bushings :: Lextreme Re-stalled TC

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Old 01-24-2006, 08:33 PM   #11
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Here's the charcoal canister:
http://clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157


Here's the coolant mod:
http://clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:27 PM   #12
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Questions:
Other than a source of vacuum, what is the benefit of removing the charcoal canister?

Same for the coolant mod; what benefit do you get from it other than making it easier to change the spark plugs?
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Pioneer HU :: JL Audio 6.5" Components :: Audiobahn 12"s :: Audiobahn and MA Audio Amps :: ICW Rims :: Pre-'95 SC4 Wing :: 30% Tint :: De-lined headlights w/Silverstars :: BFI Intake :: S-AFC II :: To Be Installed - Daizen Sway Bushings :: Lextreme Re-stalled TC

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Old 01-24-2006, 09:42 PM   #13
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You can search for it on SF, but here's a quickie:

charcoal canister: clear up the engine bay

coolant: make it easier to change plugs
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Old 01-27-2006, 07:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
one fuse from radio shack

ohm 1/2 watt resistor (part# 271-1126)
What fuse and is that just a ONE ohm resistor?

Also, I think I saw that you wanted an SC300 auto. ECU. I've got one, and if you have the block off plates I'll trade you, flat out.
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1993 SC300 Auto.
Pioneer HU :: JL Audio 6.5" Components :: Audiobahn 12"s :: Audiobahn and MA Audio Amps :: ICW Rims :: Pre-'95 SC4 Wing :: 30% Tint :: De-lined headlights w/Silverstars :: BFI Intake :: S-AFC II :: To Be Installed - Daizen Sway Bushings :: Lextreme Re-stalled TC

Boo K&N!
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:57 PM   #15
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I finally found the spare EGR plates if you are still interested. Pay shipping and throw in a few bucks for the hassle of even shipping them out and they're yours.
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Old 02-17-2006, 06:14 PM   #16
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Done, just let me know how much... you interested in the ECU?
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1993 SC300 Auto.
Pioneer HU :: JL Audio 6.5" Components :: Audiobahn 12"s :: Audiobahn and MA Audio Amps :: ICW Rims :: Pre-'95 SC4 Wing :: 30% Tint :: De-lined headlights w/Silverstars :: BFI Intake :: S-AFC II :: To Be Installed - Daizen Sway Bushings :: Lextreme Re-stalled TC

Boo K&N!
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:26 PM   #17
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Wait literally just the resistor contacts like pressed into the connector it self ??? Or is there a piece to make and solder together to make a connector to plug into the harness side ?
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:52 PM   #18
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Wondering where the plates are for sale ?

Cant find them on ebay..

Also for the 10k resistor does it just insert into the harness's plug where the EGR originally was connected ? I plan on boosting my supra soon and i wanna delete the EGR obviously... but i dont know how im going to obtain the block off plates, i have plenty of resistors thats no problem at all.
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