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4Runner, meet Supra: Fitting T61 on distributor equipped 2JZ-GE motors
Old 11-25-2007, 02:35 PM   #1
98mkiv
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Exclamation 4Runner, meet Supra: Fitting T61 on distributor equipped 2JZ-GE motors

In order to run the T61 with a distributor on the GE motor you need to overcome the interference from the huge 4" inlet with the distributor cap. In the old days we'd weld on a companion flange and that would solve the problem. In the old days, that cost money, time and reliability. Today, thanks to the efforts and ingenuity of the ClubNA-T crowd, we now know that the best way to run the T61 is with a 4Runner distributor cap!

You will need a 4Runner distributor cap. Specifically toyota PN 19101-65040. 92+ 4Runner V6 distributor cap. This allows you to use your stock wires and rotor. You can also use the pre-92 4Runner cap but it has different sockets which means you will need to make your own wires - not a bad thing at all, but something to be aware of when shopping. Running the Pre-92 cap means you need to make all 6 wires. Running the 92+ cap means you will need to order a single 2JZ-GE #2 cyl plug wire. That wire will replace your current #1 plug wire which will not reach it's intended plug.

you can order these parts at any toyota dealer or:

http://www.drivewire.com/toyotaparts...pandrotor.html

Installation is simple. First, remove your stock cap (3 screws). Take a moment to inspect your rotor and replace it with another stock 2JZ-GE rotor if its burnt up. Install the new cap as shown, using only two fasteners. You can run only 2 fasteners or you can drill and tap the third fastener hole. I suggest running three but no problems have been reported just running two. If you do install the third fastener be sure to clean up any chips from drilling/tapping when done.

Once the cap is installed - run your custom (pre-92 cap) or stock GE (92+ cap) wires to the cap. Install them in this order:

W=the # on the wire D= the # on the 4Runner cap

W1 - D5
W2 - D1
W3 - D3
W4 - D6
W5 - D4
W6 - D2

The order is different because the 4Runner is a V6. You may want to write the numbers on the cap with a sharpie so if you service the car later, you don't have to worry about which wire goes where.

You will need to change your #1 plug wire. Go to toyota and order only the #2 spark plug wire as it has the added length you will need. Install that wire and you are all set.

Plug in the distributor and set the timing using a timing light to 10 degrees btdc per the FSM.
use a paper clip or wire and jump terminals E1 and TE in the diagnostic port in the back of the engine bay. Attach the timing light to plug wire #1 and aim at the crank pulley if it is lighting up the timing mark at 10degrees before TDC your good. To adjust the timing loosen the bolt holding the distributor flange to the head and rotate to adjust timing.
Autozone
VIP Auto
Pep Boys
Toyota dealers
Western Auto
Advance Auto parts
NAPA

Again, thanks to the contributors!

Here are some photos that will help explain what's going on.

http://camelbacktoyotaparts.com/MC-BEFD-BH.aspx













As you know, ClubNA-T is centered around people getting boosted inexpensively. Most often getting boosted is much easier with the help of a few friends

If you're looking to get boosted with the T61 on your 2JZ-GE distributor motor, you can thank these guys for their contributions to making the fitment so much easier:
CO_SC3
SC3002JZ-T
Nat
TRD4Life05
thirtysix_36
2jzget
blknfury
bean
trent123
drft_n_sc
Vellela
They did a lot of work and experimentation to find a verify this excellent solution.
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Last edited by 98mkiv : 11-25-2007 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 11-25-2007, 03:30 PM   #2
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Nice find. Don't know why I didn't think of this, I am always trying stuff like it. I have like 4 3.0V6 dizzy's just laying around waiting for me to chuck them.

That is awsome!!!!
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:14 PM   #3
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Just Found Me A Dizzy Hat On Ebay!!!! Whoo Hoo!!!! Turbo Here I Come
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:05 AM   #4
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Hey no credit for starting this idea up back back in the day??? LOL! I know i just never got to finish that idea. I got as far as buying the dizzy cap and installing and fighting the firing order....
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:26 AM   #5
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....Soarerflame did try this out early on.....

credit given
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Old 12-22-2007, 02:20 PM   #6
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Just did this last night with my Precision 67mm with the 4" intake, with this thread open on my laptop sitting on the car. This site has been such a help so far.





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Old 12-23-2007, 02:35 PM   #7
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I just did this, its very easy and frees up a lot of space. Instead of buying another wire, i just switched the first and second wires and they fit perfectly.
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Old 12-31-2007, 02:34 PM   #8
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Anyone else can confirm that just switching the (2) wires #1 and #2 to get the correct length solves the issue with having to buy a single plug wire? Great info!!!!
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timing after mod?
Old 01-02-2008, 12:43 PM   #9
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timing after mod?

Has anyone had to set the timing after this mod or will the points be the same so timing wont need changing? Just wondering bc my tuner told me not to change anything with the timing except with my aem and not sure how to use aem software yet.
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Old 01-10-2008, 11:27 PM   #10
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I dont see why you would have to pull the distributor out and even have to mess with timing.. All you doing is changing the cap arent you?
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Old 01-11-2008, 02:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turb0wned
I dont see why you would have to pull the distributor out and even have to mess with timing.. All you doing is changing the cap arent you?
Exactly, I just swapped out cap and rotor without moving anything it worked fine.
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:20 PM   #12
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I just wanted to note that the photos above are all of the '93+ distributor cap accept this one:



There are a couple differences and the most obvious is the angle of the supply plug. As you can see in this picture above it's 90 degrees just like the outlet plugs. This indicates the '92 and earlier caps. It looks like the '93 version clears the 4" intake just fine so this may not be a large issue for most. However, if you have tighter clearance issues then consider the pre-92 version. I also saw that they both have slightly different offsets to the three holes where they mount to the distributor. Neither place I went to had a Supra distributor cap for me to compare and I didn't feel like pulling off my cap to check. There's a chance that the 92 fits the Supra distributor base better but there's also a chance it fits worse. I couldn't find any posts where anyone had tried the earlier version to post back if it worked or not.

One of the reasons I want to go with the earlier version is because I want more plug wire options. The wires for the later version are substantially smaller in diameter and cost more so this gives more options for plug wires. If you're changing out all the parts it seems to make more sense to me to just go with the earlier versions for thicker (7mm vs 5mm) plug wires that cost less. If you already have high quality wires then you'll want to stick with the '93+ version.

Those that are making their own plug wires, are you having issues making the short coil to supply plug wire? I'm trying to decide if I'm going to try to find a custom kit that is 8.5mm or so or just go with the 7mm ones and call it good.

Lastly, just just swapping the #1 and #2 wires give proper length for all of them to work w/o needing to buy a single wire or make your own? I think some were buying/making an additional plug wire while someone posted that they were able to just swap the two and have it work just fine. Can anyone confirm this?
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:35 PM   #13
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Good info Jer.... It's been confirmed that you can just swap the wires without issue.
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98mkiv View Post
Good info Jer.... It's been confirmed that you can just swap the wires without issue.

After I posted that I read through again and saw where bluepill had confirmed that this did indeed work. Had I known for sure this worked today I probably would have bought the cap/wires to swap out tomorrow.

My plug wires are shot now and I didn't want to pay all the money for some OEM wires when they were only 5mm and I wasn't sure if I was going to have to go distributor less when I went turbo anyway. I smell raw gas in my exhaust and my MPG has dropped below 20mpg so I'm going to go ahead and do the pre-92 cap and wires and swap the #1 and #2 wires. I would love to make my own wires as it will probably cost less and I can get thicker core/jacketed wires too. I'm worried about the Supply plug from the coil though and how easy it will be to find a 6cyl kit with the proper connections.

Anyone make their own set and what did you use?
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:35 PM   #15
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Has anyone been able to confirm 100% that this will not affect your timing at all? In other words, if i just swap cap for cap will my timing be the same assuming of course I don't disturb the distributor itself? It seems to make sense that it would be fine but part of me can't help but wonder that if all three screw holes don't line up there's also a chance that the posts could also be off their alignment that is currently in place which would affect the timing. I'm going to swap my factory cap for a 1991 4Runner because I wanted the 7mm wires for it too and plan to do this prior to going turbo so I'm wanting to clarify that this is an exact swap and no other changes would need to be made assuming no other variables are introduced.

Once I do this I plan to take some pictures comparing the stock NA cap to the 1991 cap so other people can see the differences in them side by side.
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Last edited by Jer : 01-28-2008 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:03 PM   #16
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nope, you need to adjust timing by rotating the distributor with a timing light running. Be sure to add the jumper in the engine test plug.
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98mkiv View Post
nope, you need to adjust timing by rotating the distributor with a timing light running. Be sure to add the jumper in the engine test plug.
There had been some posts stating that they didn't adjust timing, just put the new cap on and it worked fine. This is what I'm trying to confirm.
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:09 AM   #18
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always verify timing with a timing light.
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:07 AM   #19
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Hey everyone!!

I have bought a 4 runner distributor cap for my JDM Na-t Supra (1994) Manual.

Only problem is, the wires dont seem to reach when using the guide here??

I can only assume that the cap is maybe upside down and should be rotated but then the 2 top bots dont line up with the dis cap. HELP!!!

Am i going to have to strip all the inlet off and just see which cable fit and do it that way????
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:53 AM   #20
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post up pix then we can see what this problem is.
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Old 02-13-2008, 06:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supraowner66 View Post
Hey everyone!!

I have bought a 4 runner distributor cap for my JDM Na-t Supra (1994) Manual.

Only problem is, the wires dont seem to reach when using the guide here??

I can only assume that the cap is maybe upside down and should be rotated but then the 2 top bots dont line up with the dis cap. HELP!!!

Am i going to have to strip all the inlet off and just see which cable fit and do it that way????
Did you swap the #1 and #2 wires?? If it's just those two wires with length issues try switching them.
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Old 02-15-2008, 01:24 PM   #22
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wow great info thanks!
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:55 PM   #23
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regarding this picture. Please note the terminals do NOT have the facilities to use the stock toyota clips on them. I bought this one thinking it was the other one and my wires would not stay on because of it. If you don't have custom wires and plan on using stock wires or stock upgrade wires; make sure you get the one in the other pictures
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:47 AM   #24
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Hey i tried this with changing the wires and now car doesn't start?HELP!
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:46 AM   #25
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did you compensate for the offset by adjusting timing?
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:20 PM   #26
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When me and my friend installed this cap we had to remove that metal piece under the original cap to have clearence for the new dist cap. To remove that metal piece we had to take the rotor out without moving it too much and marking on the rotor and head where it lined up. wasn't too bad just took some more effort don't know if anyone else has encountered this.
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Old 04-24-2008, 08:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amorphous View Post
When me and my friend installed this cap we had to remove that metal piece under the original cap to have clearence for the new dist cap. To remove that metal piece we had to take the rotor out without moving it too much and marking on the rotor and head where it lined up. wasn't too bad just took some more effort don't know if anyone else has encountered this.
it looks that way... you can see the plate removed on the first pic and in gunnar's pics...
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Old 04-24-2008, 09:03 AM   #28
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Yep I also had to remove the dizzy so that I could take the heat shield off. Make sure you mark carefully where the rotor was when you pull it out.

For some reason on mine, even when I lined up the matchmarks at TDC the car was running terribly. I couldnt get the timing back anywhere near 10BTDC. I then swapped back to the Supra dizzy cap and still the same problem. The car sounded and idled really badly but since the dizzy matchmarks were lined up I was considering all kinds of other possibilities instead of that!

Finally the genius NaT (thanks again) bailed me out and told me that the dizzy rotor was off by a tooth, I then ignored the matchmarks and just went by trial and error until the car ran nicely. Now its running again (still on the Supra dizzy cap though).

Unfortunately I have had to put off my Supra build project because my backup car (Celica) died on me , spent this afternoon pulling the timing belt off.
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Old 05-06-2008, 10:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprasonic View Post
Did you swap the #1 and #2 wires?? If it's just those two wires with length issues try switching them.

I also swapped the #3 and #6 and found i got better fitment.
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:54 AM   #30
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i was wondering how you guys installed the cap on when the offsets to the 3 holes is slightly different from the stock?
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